New owner: what did I get myself into?

[Woodrow]

I wondered about the spacers. Is that all the guy did for the lift? The only vehicle I've ever lifted was a '75 Scout (not coil springs). If this isn't done properly, I want to know so I can fix it.

Also, I had planned to go to 33's since the 31's look silly with the lift. Will that make the 2.5 too much of a dog to be useable? The plan is to use this on-road the majority of the time.

Lift height, tire size and gearing all depend on what you like, usage and the the cash drawer, of course. There are a bunch of very knowledgeable folks on here who are happy to help with specific questions (as you have already seen, your pics are very helpful) and there are many good threads already up to learn from.

Your current setup definitely needs a thorough going over especially given the disconnected track bar (which is surely a big part of why it feels all over the road). Check all of the control arm, track bar and steering attachments. Do a dry steering test. Check the brakes.

I would focus on getting it road worthy and driving well first. My approach would be keeping the current tire size for now, and removing the spacers. Then re-check the toe (1/8" is about right), caster (stock is around 7 degrees) and center the axles. Check your spring height. Stock is 12" F and 8"rear. You'll probably want to replace the shocks (this is a more complicated and controversial topic than you might think but if your springs are stock, its simple and inexpensive enough).

Once you've got it safe and driving OK, then drive it, read more, think and start building to your preference.

And welcome!

 

[EMurray]

Ok, I've been doing a little research. Looks like 33's are out. I'm not spending the same amount I paid for the vehicle just to get bigger tires (once you add up the re-gear and the cost of the tires). I'll be driving this on the highway and need to be able to keep up with traffic. I can survive with the 31's, but that's it. Also, I'm on the fence about the lift. If it's a crappy way to do it, maybe I just back it down? But I like a bit of lift... I'll have to keep researching. Thanks for all the replies. This board is awesome.
EDIT: Woodrow, you are exactly right. I'm going to get the alignment set (after replacing the tie rod ends), go through the steering/suspension, get working seatbelts, then drive it for a bit to see what I want to do.

 

[JMT]

Oh my gosh! That is Frankenbuild if I ever saw one. Thankfully you’re in good hands here and a lot of stuff has been pointed out. Glad there’s no rust.

Welcome to the forum, and your first Jeep! I bet you will figure out the zippers and get the top off by summer!

 

[NashvilleTJ]

Ok, I've been doing a little research. Looks like 33's are out. I'm not spending the same amount I paid for the vehicle just to get bigger tires (once you add up the re-gear and the cost of the tires). I'll be driving this on the highway and need to be able to keep up with traffic. I can survive with the 31's, but that's it. Also, I'm on the fence about the lift. If it's a crappy way to do it, maybe I just back it down? But I like a bit of lift... I'll have to keep researching. Thanks for all the replies. This board is awesome.
EDIT: Woodrow, you are exactly right. I'm going to get the alignment set (after replacing the tie rod ends), go through the steering/suspension, get working seatbelts, then drive it for a bit to see what I want to do.

Oh no. Clear thinking and a logical decision approach. We will not tolerate that around here…



As was stated, a good approach will be to get it running well first, concentrating on the basics of steering, power, brakes and ride. Especially since this is your first Jeep. Then drive it, wheel it (if that is your intent), and then start thinking about upgrades such as bigger tires and better suspension. Personal experience, and knowing your rig, is key to making good mod decisions.

 

[JMT]

Ok, I've been doing a little research. Looks like 33's are out. I'm not spending the same amount I paid for the vehicle just to get bigger tires (once you add up the re-gear and the cost of the tires). I'll be driving this on the highway and need to be able to keep up with traffic. I can survive with the 31's, but that's it. Also, I'm on the fence about the lift. If it's a crappy way to do it, maybe I just back it down? But I like a bit of lift... I'll have to keep researching. Thanks for all the replies. This board is awesome.
EDIT: Woodrow, you are exactly right. I'm going to get the alignment set (after replacing the tie rod ends), go through the steering/suspension, get working seatbelts, then drive it for a bit to see what I want to do.

Check the actual lift height first. If it 4”, then Yes, remove the spacers and bring it down in the 2” range. Everything is easier and less complicated at <2.5” lift.

 

[EMurray]

Check the actual lift height first. If it 4”, then Yes, remove the spacers and bring it down in the 2” range. Everything is easier and less complicated at <2.5” lift.

Now we're getting down to it. The spacers aren't 4" tall and the shocks look ancient (meaning they probably didn't go on with the lift which was supposedly recent), so where is the lift coming from? I believe the 4" just anecdotally from the need to use the step to climb in and the ride height (sorry for the cruddy screen shot). So should I just pull the spacers and see where we sit? Is it likely lift springs plus the spacers? If I'm not going 33's, I need to get some lift out of it so it doesn't look so goofy.
EDIT: Nevermind. I found a great thread that answers this. There is a lot of very useful info on this forum. https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/how-can-i-tell-how-much-lift-my-jeep-wrangler-tj-has.193/

 

[Artsifrtsi]

Oh, for the zippers... try a spritz of wd-40 and once they get moving, keep them working well by using beeswax on the teeth.

based on that pic, looks like maybe 3 inch spacers?

 

[cpwolf]

Now we're getting down to it. The spacers aren't 4" tall and the shocks look ancient (meaning they probably didn't go on with the lift which was supposedly recent), so where is the lift coming from? I believe the 4" just anecdotally from the need to use the step to climb in and the ride height (sorry for the cruddy screen shot). So should I just pull the spacers and see where we sit? Is it likely lift springs plus the spacers? If I'm not going 33's, I need to get some lift out of it so it doesn't look so goofy.
EDIT: Nevermind. I found a great thread that answers this. There is a lot of very useful info on this forum. https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/how-can-i-tell-how-much-lift-my-jeep-wrangler-tj-has.193/
View attachment 397076

You found the answer in lift. Spacers are terrible, I wouldn’t build one that way personally, but I bought mine and came with 2” spacers, Rancho made the lift that way, spring and spacer combo.

If you’re going with 33’s, I’d look at replacing the springs and doing all spring.

There is a How To like Chris had sticky, something like “So you want to put on 35’s”. On a TJ.

Not saying you want 35’s, but for suspension, I feel like that thread how to….will give you the “what all would or can I do for a lift on a TJ. Well, before the “going 40’s and get’yer cutting wheel and welder out.

If you go 33’s, I would think 2.5 to 4” would be possible, but situate your engine first. I’ve never dealt with a 2.5, but 33’s might be a lot of tire for that engine depending on your axle gearing.

 

[TripMcneely]

I used to run 31x10.50s on a 99 2.5 and it took everything it had to do 75, thats with the hardtop on and windows up

That was with stock 4.10s and no lift

 

[jeepguy03]

Like others have mentioned I would first start with figuring out the steering (reconnecting track bar) then seeing what joints and bushings are worn. With a 2.5L a 31x10.5 would be the max tire size I would run.

For suspension I have H&R springs and Fox shocks, which net anywhere from 1-1.5" of lift and 31x10.5 tires and I like the look and ride. It's basically OEM+ without the need for a gearing change (at least with the 4.0L) and not overly complicated.

 

[LONGJP2]

! That will be fixed before the truck moves. Yikes

Putting the bolt back in without a relocation bracket may be tricky.
Plus it will pull your axle off center.
Assuming it's still the stock trackbar.

 

[Blackjack]

Blackjack: Any ideas why somebody would plug that? Both halves of the hose are there, but with bolts to plug them. Also, the genius PO used zip ties in place of hose clamps several places. Those will be going.

Did PO put some aftermarket air intake on it? Plugging both is a horrible thing as there is no avenue to relieve crankcase pressure which will lead to leaks at a minimum.

 

[06TJ35's]

You can look up your VIN and find the build sheet.

 

[EMurray]

Nearly got the rear track bar fixed. I'm pulling the spacers at the same time. According to the measurements, I have 2" lift springs, which had 2" (actually about 1 3/4") spacers on top. I'm going to keep the 2" springs and Rancho shocks, since that should be ok with the 31's.

Getting the track bar in place wasn't as bad as I feared. I pulled the springs and supported the diff on a jack. Then I put a ratchet strap to keep tension and alternately wiggled the whole axle and tapped the mount with a lead hammer. It popped in without too much trouble. I noticed that one of the top bushings had worked its way out of the shock, so I need to fix that while it's apart.

Tomorrow night, I'm going to fix the toe-in at the front, then take it for a drive. If it tracks straight, I'll call things good enough to at least drive for a bit.

 

[Woodrow]

Making progress!
One thing to check: If you are going to run the current shocks without the spacers, make sure the springs won’t unseat and pop out at full droop. that can happen if the shocks are too long.

edit: here’s a good thread with a pdf on various spring and shock specs if you need something else:
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/tj-shock-spring-specification-resource-thread.47846/

 

[VadeerHunter]

There is some serious redneck engineering going on here. I'd start in the front and check every nut and bolt; Engine wise go find pictures or one in person and straighten out what's under the hood. 180-155 is wide spread but could be a stuck ring, OIL change with engine flush in it. Then spray clean the carb etc. Sea foam it. (Thats stuff is amazing) Lubricate everything. Double check it wasn't homemade lift. Been there done that on a YJ. You sound like a knowledgeable process driven guy so I think you can make a gem out it!

 

[cpwolf]

There is some serious redneck engineering going on here. I'd start in the front and check every nut and bolt; Engine wise go find pictures or one in person and straighten out what's under the hood. 180-155 is wide spread but could be a stuck ring, OIL change with engine flush in it. Then spray clean the carb etc. Sea foam it. (Thats stuff is amazing) Lubricate everything. Double check it wasn't homemade lift. Been there done that on a YJ. You sound like a knowledgeable process driven guy so I think you can make a gem out it!

Hey now......I've Rednecked more than a few things out on a ranch in West Texas.....sometimes it's what'll get ya home, ha!!!!