What did you do to your TJ today?

Finished and installed my 3d printed third brake light.
Third brake light-Model2med.webp

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curiosity on the sticker/permit. something required to “go off road”. On state owned land ?

I remember getting the sticker when we went to Drummond.

Here's the details.

When an ORV license and/or trail permit is required​

Both the ORV license and trail permit are valid for one year, which begins April 1 and ends March 31 of the following year.

An ORV license is required to ride eligible county roads, frozen surface of public waters, state forest roads (open to ORV use) and eligible national forest roads.

  • The cost is $26.25.
  • A license is not required to operate on private lands.
  • Both the ORV license and trail permit are valid for one year, which begins April 1 and ends March 31 of the following year.
An ORV trail permit is required when operating on state-designated ORV trails and scramble areas.

  • The cost is $10 (plus $26.25 for the ORV license) for a total of $36.25.
  • ORV trail permits are not valid as a stand-alone license; an ORV license must also be purchased.
  • A trail permit is not required to operate on private lands.

https://www.michigan.gov/dnr/things-to-do/orv-riding/permits-and-requirements
 
License + Permit - I will add that to “if you want to play you got to pay” department. Just had not seen that requirement on a licensed/ road legal vehicle.
 
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I bypassed the heater core. I was getting the sweet smell of anti-freeze thru the vents. It'd be strong right after startup and fade to nearly nothing on a longer drive. I zip-tied the loop to a nearby wiring mount. I didn't see any better options jumping out at me to keep it from bouncing around.

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Winch install/replacement/upgrade done. Cab controls all wired in. 9.5 XP even came with a wireless remote. While finishing up I heard my father in law inventing some new curse words...his F250's brake petal was hitting the floor. He's got brake fluid pouring out intermittently from under the power steering hydroboost pump and the rear brakes. He didn't believe me when I said it was pouring out of the cups inside the caliper...took the Jeep into town for his choice of cheap brake parts...no winching needed (yet.)

That motor is so big it needs a sticker...any suggestions?

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Got his moneys worth outta those pads lol
 
Got some more of the rebuild buttoned up. Water pump and gasket on, thermostat and housing on, power steering pump bracket. I robbed a few parts from the last good engine I purchased but have yet to install. They were all newer parts including the fan clutch and tensioner screw and pulley. I definitely want to try to run this thing before just going with a known good engine just to see if it will in fact run lol I do think it will try to run at least. For how long will be the real question. The crank feels really tight after all the new rings and pistons were installed so I hope something isn’t out of spec and binding. I’ve read that new rings on a fresh hone can create a lot of drag until ran and broken in so I guess I’ll find out firsthand

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Our mid-west farmhand friend blinded me a few weeks ago. Blinded me in the daylight. I was sold.

Thanks @Claytone !

I think I may have made this joke here before, but after I installed my Claytone's, I wheeled with Victor ( @gasiorv ) and he followed me for a short distance - now he can't see colors....

Great product. Highly recommended. 5 stars.

:cool:
 
Just
I bypassed the heater core. I was getting the sweet smell of anti-freeze thru the vents. It'd be strong right after startup and fade to nearly nothing on a longer drive. I zip-tied the loop to a nearby wiring mount. I didn't see any better options jumping out at me to keep it from bouncing around.

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Did the same thing last week, will run it that way till the fall so I can use AC if I need to before I tear it down for core replacement.