To upgrade axles or replace?

[LJDC]

I've read a number of threads on upgrading axles and and a few on replacing them. I'm in the process of building my LJ into something that can be a rock crawler and also take on the water and mud we have in the mid-Atlantic. The Jeep is no longer a daily driver. When I started the process it was; and I still plan to give it a dash around town this summer, and play in the snow in the winter (assuming we ever get snow again). So some of my choices are changing.

As background, I have a 4" (Savvy/Currie/RJ) suspension lift, and 33s on factory 15-inch wheels, and I'm considering either a 1" or 1.25" body lift. At the same time, I plan to upgrade the axles and also add air lockers. The question is, given how much has to be done to the existing Dana 30 and Dana 44 axles to survive/thrive on 35s, does it make more sense to spend the extra cash on, say, the Currie 44 and 60, which will come with the new gears, chromoly shafts, lockers, etc., already installed? (There are also Teraflex axles, but they seem much more expensive.) I understand the Currie axles are well thought of.

I also understand that these would probably be a bit overbuilt for my non-Moab trips. The factor I'm pondering here is that this is work I cannot do myself, so in some ways I'll be choosing between more-expensive parts and more labor.

I appreciate all of the constructive and excellent advice I've received since joining here. I know this is a question that has discussed a lot. However, because I just started looking, I don't know to what extent price increases have changed the calculus. As I also mentioned, my plans have changed since I started, then planning for a 3" lift and that's all, to now considering what may have been pretty annoying had this remained my commuting vehicle.

 

[lBasket]

I've read a number of threads on upgrading axles and and a few on replacing them. I'm in the process of building my LJ into something that can be a rock crawler and also take on the water and mud we have in the mid-Atlantic. The Jeep is no longer a daily driver. When I started the process it was; and I still plan to give it a dash around town this summer, and play in the snow in the winter (assuming we ever get snow again). So some of my choices are changing.

As background, I have a 4" (Savvy/Currie/RJ) suspension lift, and 33s on factory 15-inch wheels, and I'm considering either a 1" or 1.25" body lift. At the same time, I plan to upgrade the axles and also add air lockers. The question is, given how much has to be done to the existing Dana 30 and Dana 44 axles to survive/thrive on 35s, does it make more sense to spend the extra cash on, say, the Currie 44 and 60, which will come with the new gears, chromoly shafts, lockers, etc., already installed? (There are also Teraflex axles, but they seem much more expensive.) I understand the Currie axles are well thought of.

I also understand that these would probably be a bit overbuilt for my non-Moab trips. The factor I'm pondering here is that this is work I cannot do myself, so in some ways I'll be choosing between more-expensive parts and more labor.

I appreciate all of the constructive and excellent advice I've received since joining here. I know this is a question that has discussed a lot. However, because I just started looking, I don't know to what extent price increases have changed the calculus. As I also mentioned, my plans have changed since I started, then planning for a 3" lift and that's all, to now considering what may have been pretty annoying had this remained my commuting vehicle.

I don't know all your answers, but I can share what [I think] I know.

My research has brought me to the conclusion that a dana 30 w/ chromoly shafts and a dana35 with the "super kit" (more splines, chromoly shafts) can handle locked 35s well. Not 100% sure on the strength difference of the super35 vs Dana 44, but you might have enough axle to begin with if you don't plan on going with bigger tires than 35s or finding a way to push more power one way or another.

 

[LJDC]

Thanks. I do not plan on going larger than 35s. However, if I'm going to spend all of that money on axle upgrades, I would rather not have enough axle "to begin with." I get your point, and I appreciate it. But I can afford to choose the more expensive path, if it makes sense. But I wonder whether it's a waste — or, rather, simply unnecessary.

Predictions are hard, especially about the future. Who knows what will break or when? On the other hand, there's a sensibility (in mind) to paying a little more for parts that'll stay with the Jeep than for labor, which kind of won't.

 

[Duck Doctor]

LP 30 and Dana 44 with chromoly shafts will be more than strong enough for 35s. Figure $2,400 for gear install of gears/lockers, another $2,500 for the ARBs and related components, and $1,000 for chromoly shafts. Basically $6,000 for a full upgrade.

Aftermarket axles will cost $10,000 plus install minus $1,000 if you sell your stock axles.

 

[lBasket]

Thanks. I do not plan on going larger than 35s. However, if I'm going to spend all of that money on axle upgrades, I would rather not have enough axle "to begin with." I get your point, and I appreciate it. But I can afford to choose the more expensive path, if it makes sense. But I wonder whether it's a waste — or, rather, simply unnecessary.

I guess I meant enough housing to begin with. What's the difference between a waste, and spending money on something unnecessary?

Predictions are hard, especially about the future. Who knows what will break or when? On the other hand, there's a sensibility (in mind) to paying a little more for parts that'll stay with the Jeep than for labor, which kind of won't.

Yeah forsure. I definitely can't know your plans. Just trying to share what I've decided. I'm not a total expert but I'm definitely not pulling these suggestions out of my ass, it's what I'm gonna do after all!

 

[tworley]

Save some money and invest in your current axles.

4350 shafts (RG&A)
5.13s and master install kit (RG&A)
Control arm skids (Currie)
Lockers (ARB or Eaton)

My dana 30 and 44 have handled my 35s being a dd and weekend rock crawler for some years now.

 

[LJDC]

I guess I meant enough housing to begin with. What's the difference between a waste, and spending money on something unnecessary?

Sorry, I didn't mean to draw a distinction there. If I were forced to, I'd say it's probably something to do with potentially useful but unlikely so, vs. no use at all. But I'm really trying to figure out whether upgrading the axles I have is just enough, but I'd be less likely to break new stronger axles, or whether I'm unlikely to have any problem with either.

LP 30 and Dana 44 with chromoly shafts will be more than strong enough for 35s. Figure $2,400 for gear install of gears/lockers, another $2,500 for the ARBs and related components, and $1,000 for chromoly shafts. Basically $6,000 for a full upgrade.

Aftermarket axles will cost $10,000 plus install minus $1,000 if you sell your stock axles.

I don't live in the cheapest area, which isn't anybody else's fault. But I've been quoted by different shops about $7,000-$7,500 for the axle upgrade, including re-gearing, new shafts, etc. (but not ball joints or the compressor) — that's parts and labor. I figure the Currie axles themselves would cost about $11,000 in parts, plus labor. So we're talking maybe $5k difference, which is a lot. On the other hand, replacing a broken axle (already upgraded) isn't cheap either.

 

[LJDC]

Save some money and invest in your current axles.

4350 shafts (RG&A)
5.13s and master install kit (RG&A)
Control arm skids (Currie)
Lockers (ARB or Eaton)

I have a manual, so I expect to go with 4.88 gears. ARB lockers. Are those the weld-on control-arm skids?

 

[tworley]

I expect to go with 5.13 gears. ARB lockers.

Good choice. Currie's control arm skids are welded on.

 

[sierradmax]

6-speed? Go with 4.88. Slightly larger pinion head and your granny gear will be fine with 35's.

 

[RHanna]

Sorry, I didn't mean to draw a distinction there. If I were forced to, I'd say it's probably something to do with potentially useful but unlikely so, vs. no use at all. But I'm really trying to figure out whether upgrading the axles I have is just enough, but I'd be less likely to break new stronger axles, or whether I'm unlikely to have any problem with either.


I don't live in the cheapest area, which isn't anybody else's fault. But I've been quoted by different shops about $7,000-$7,500 for the axle upgrade, including re-gearing, new shafts, etc. (but not ball joints or the compressor) — that's parts and labor. I figure the Currie axles themselves would cost about $11,000 in parts, plus labor. So we're talking maybe $5k difference, which is a lot. On the other hand, replacing a broken axle (already upgraded) isn't cheap either.

I haven't researched this but wouldn't the upgraded axle shafts have a lifetime warranty?
Would you not install the 2 axles if you purchased from Currie? There may be some dialing in but the labor on those would be a lot less than upgrading the existing axles and regear. I would think.

 

[LJDC]

I haven't researched this but wouldn't the upgraded axle shafts have a lifetime warranty?
Would you not install the 2 axles if you purchased from Currie? There may be some dialing in but the labor on those would be a lot less than upgrading the existing axles and regear. I would think.

Right: higher cost for parts, lower cost for labor. Yes a warranty would be nice.

 

[RHanna]

Right: higher cost for parts, lower cost for labor. Yes a warranty would be nice.

I wonder if you would need new driveshafts if you went with currie, or have your existing ones modified.

 

[LJDC]

Here’s what it comes with:

• High-Pinion Massively Reinforced Center Section
• Larger, Stronger JK Ring and Pinion Gears
• 4340 Chromoly Axles Shafts
• 3-inch Diameter x .5 in. Wall DOM Axle Tubes
• Massive Forged Currie Inner C’s
• Steering Geometry and Brackets Setup for Lifted Vehicles
• Choice of Gear Ratio, Selectable Locker, and Axle Type
• Stock TJ 60.5 in. Overall Width
• Accepts Stock TJ/LJ/XJ Outer Knuckle Assemblies

 

[Onetime12]

OP,
I have on order a Super Dana 35 kit w/ locker, Dana 30 Axle upgrade w/ Locker and 5.13 gear kit. I have been waiting since November and still have not received my order ! (All Revolution Gear stuff thought Morris4x4) Now if the order gets pushed out again, I am contemplating going with a Currie Rear Dana 44 and finding a 5.13 front gear set and keep the Dana 30 open until I can save up for a Currie Front Dana 44.

Just some info, I think the issue is with the Gear install kit, so I have been told but this may or may not make the decision for you.

 

[Mike_H]

A dana 60 rear on 35's is going to reduce your ground clearance for no real benefit over a 44 on 35" tires. The front 44 is probably a high pinion, which is nice and probably a worthwhile upgrade. A High Pinion Dana 30 will also handle 35's fine, once its been upgraded with a carrier and 30 spline shafts and it has more ground clearance.

If you can't find someone to do the work reasonably, then it might make sense to order new axles. I have a friend with a JK in the same boat.

 

[TJosh02]

FWIW, I rock 35s with a Dana 30 front and Dana 44 rear. Both locked (ARB front, Detroit rear). I upgraded the shafts in the rear to chromo and RCVs in the front. I have a 5spd manual and run 4.56s, but that is because my dad regeared back in '03 (my TJ is '02) when he went to 33s.

 

[The4bangertj]

Depends on price. Would a 44 front and rear from currie be stronger, yup. Do you need that over the stock 30/44 that’s built, prob not. But if the total cost to get there is close to a currie I see no problem just getting the currie. I was able to just get a 30/44 from a lj that was built with lockers and gears to swap my 30/35 open for 2,500. There is no way I see justification to swap these for a currie within the goals of 35in tires. I also have a 4cyl so maybe ls swapping would warrant wanting to get the currie 60 but otherwise doesn’t make sense. Interested to see the route you go

 

[P man]

A dana 60 rear on 35's is going to reduce your ground clearance for no real benefit over a 44 on 35" tires. The front 44 is probably a high pinion, which is nice and probably a worthwhile upgrade. A High Pinion Dana 30 will also handle 35's fine, once its been upgraded with a carrier and 30 spline shafts and it has more ground clearance.

If you can't find someone to do the work reasonably, then it might make sense to order new axles. I have a friend with a JK in the same boat.

Spot on reply Mike..It never clicked with me until I saw a production line dana 60 next to a dana 35 how massive those things are!!! But instead of thinking how nice the beef would be all I could think was how heavy and massive it was and why would I need it? There's local people that shave them but I'm assuming you still lose clearance plus the ring gear needs shaved as well IIRC

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Your rear axle is a Dana 44 and it will be fine with 35's in the type of wheeling you described. At the most you can replace its axle shafts with 4340 chromoly shafts which will be good when that axle is locked on tougher terrain.

Your front axle is more than up to being locked with 35's after replacing its axle shafts with a Super 30 kit which makes them slightly stronger than the stock Dana 44 shafts in a Rubicon. Its R&P gears are more than up to your needs. However a Super 30 kit does require a 30 spline locker. If you want to run a less costly lunchbox locker up front, which worked great for me in my previous TJ, you can stick with 27 spline 4340 chromoly axle shafts and still be fine for wheeling 35's on very difficult terrain.