A lesson learned—keep it light and nimble!
- Thread starter Irun
- Start date
The upper part of the stock swaybar brackets are gone and the bottom part cleaned up. New Spicer ball joints are in, along with the knuckles. Next up are the axles and either new Spicer hub bearings, or a small Yukon hub kit. I have both, but am going back and forth on which way to go.
The small hub kit gives the option to not spin the front driveshaft, but is expensive to replace parts for and doesn't allow for the use of stock wheels. Hub bearings are dirt simple and relatively inexpensive. However, the front axle is always spinning. Now to pull the new 30 spline shafts from the parts shelf and make a decision!
The small hub kit gives the option to not spin the front driveshaft, but is expensive to replace parts for and doesn't allow for the use of stock wheels. Hub bearings are dirt simple and relatively inexpensive. However, the front axle is always spinning. Now to pull the new 30 spline shafts from the parts shelf and make a decision!
Good stuff!
Is there a real-world use for a hub kit on a “mild” build (no tall lifts or low gears to cause vibrations)?
Good stuff!
Is there a real-world use for a hub kit on a “mild” build (no tall lifts or low gears to cause vibrations)?
Hub kits for D30s are best suited for daily driver/mild builds. IMO, there are a few reasons for them, 1. Free spinning hubs mqke for less drag and wear and tear on the front drivetrain parts when you're daily driving, 2. They become a type of fuse for the front axle especially if you are running HD axle shafts. and U-joints, 3. If they do break they're a lot cheaper and easier to repair/replace than when axle shafts break.
If you're looking for strength the unit bearings are stronger than any hub kit you can get for a Dana 30.
Good stuff!
Is there a real-world use for a hub kit on a “mild” build (no tall lifts or low gears to cause vibrations)?
Everything about this build is overdone. While smaller tires are part of the plan, it gets wheeled like it has bigger tires. There's just a fair amount of emphasis placed on driving skills. That said, the single biggest benefit is if something breaks inside the front axle I can disconnect it and use 2WD.
I’d like to pick your brain a bit, if you don’t mind!
Do you know what part acts as “the fuse” in the hub kit?
I can see cheaper, but I’m not sure how it’s any easier. Unit bearings are easier to pull apart and replace, and parts would be easier to find I’d think.
Correct me if I’m wrong on these.
I’ve never seen a TJ hub kit up close, so I’m comparing it to a manual hub on a dana 60, which takes much longer to disassemble than a TJ unit bearing design.
So for which drivetrain parts does this matter? Unit bearings tend to last quite a while, and differentials don’t typically wear out. Is it DS u joints?
Do you know what part acts as “the fuse” in the hub kit?
I can see cheaper, but I’m not sure how it’s any easier. Unit bearings are easier to pull apart and replace, and parts would be easier to find I’d think.
Correct me if I’m wrong on these.
I’ve never seen a TJ hub kit up close, so I’m comparing it to a manual hub on a dana 60, which takes much longer to disassemble than a TJ unit bearing design.
Last edited by a moderator:
This is definitely a very unique build and I like it. Look forward to seeing what you do with it!
That makes sense. Makes it easier to make it off the trail, especially on a DD/non-trailered rig.
It saves wear on the gears, diff bearings, u-joints, and t-case parts.
Yes unit bearing can last a long time with no maintenance, but so can tapered roller bearings. The difference is you can inspect the tapered roller bearings and regrease them as PM before a long trip.
Typically the the locking hub itself is the weakest link in all manual hubs, regardless of what size axle they are on. Which is why they aren't necessarily a good choise for people who tend to be heavy on the throttle or "wheel hard".
Unit bearings are not any easier to replace than tapered roller bearings, it just requires a different skill set. (I've never had to resort to brute forse to replace tapered roller bearings, unless someone neglected to grease them periodically and the races have galled to the spindle).
Have you ever seen the old Ford Ranger factory hubs... That's the style hub kit you get if you keep 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern. If you switch to a 5 or 6 on 5.5 bolt pattern you can get the more common style hubs that resemble those used on the 60s and bigger axles.
Here's a thread that discusses hub conversions on TJs...
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...ng-a-manual-locking-hub-conversion-kit.16093/
Last edited:
Did a mockup with a spare set of small hubs. Ignore the rotors, these were sprayed to keep rust away while in storage. If I go this route everything will get cleaned up, made presentable and properly working.
Last edited:
Did you know they were going to leaf you behind like that?
I was surprised, because the guy ran Black trails with us and had zero issues.
deadbeat son
TJ Addict
I assumed he was talking about the red first gen....
I wheel with a group of 1st generation Broncos. My buddies 77 is behind me in this picture.
Aftter two days of East Coast wheeling....before, and 2.5 hours later!
Sacrificial JL wheels and tires are doing their job. Best $400 spent thus far on the build!
Season #2 of my 31" tire build and it has totally changed my perspective on building TJs for East Coast wheeling. More to come here!