New Axles for Daily Driving and Off-Road (Not Rock Crawling)

[mistermeeseeks]

Try to keep this short and to the point, let me know what you think. I've got a 97 Sahara with a 4.0. The factory Dana 30 and 35 are rusted badly. They function fine but they look terrible. The frame has been repaired and looks great but the axles look like shit. So I want new axles, but I am the type that just wants to buy axles once. I don't want to find out later down the road that I want another axle. I know the first question is going to be tire size and how I drive. I have 33's now, I probably would like to buy 35's when they wear out. I really don't see moving to 37's. I'm not into rock crawling, and I'm not interested in getting into it. But I want to be super confident that I can take it just about anywhere. I'm not looking for a challenge and will go around any obstacles if possible. I will mainly be using this for hunting, and I want to go anywhere a UTV or side by side can go. I also will need to drive on the highway for hours to get to my hunting spots so it needs to ride well on the street.

What are the best axles, that are sure to keep me happy and not want to upgrade again in the future. Budget isn't important.

Thank you for your input!

 

[Duck Doctor]

What is your budget for new axles? Consider posting some pics of your current axles so we can evaluate what type of rust issue you’re dealing with.

My deer hunting rig is a YJ on 35s with a HP30 front and Dana 489 rear. Also have ARB lockers so I can deal with the snow in idaho.

 

[mistermeeseeks]

Budget is not really important. I don't want to waste money on things I don't need though. Does that make sense?

I'll post some pictures when I have the chance. Thanks for your response!

 

[BlueC]

Budget is not really important.

I want new axles

If budget isn't important, and you want new axles, then just order some new 44s. They should start around $5,000 per axle and probably run $5,000 for a shop to install them. $15-20,000 and you'll have what you want, but I'm guessing budget is important.

 

[mistermeeseeks]

If budget isn't important, and you want new axles, then just order some new 44s. They should start around $5,000 per axle and probably run $5,000 for a shop to install them. $15-20,000 and you'll have what you want, but I'm guessing budget is important.

Well yeah, I'd say thats just burning money. For starters I'm going to do the install, not paying someone else to do it. If you are going to make me put a number on it I'd like to get it done for less than say $3k per axle

 

[jjvw]

Will clean factory TJ axles not be enough for what you want?

 

[Rickyd]

Everything is more expensive these days.regearing,lockers and axleshafts for 35s isn't cheap.but a Dana 30 and Dana 35 is up for it with the right upgrades and can be had cheap.
what transmission?you want 5.13 for a manual and 4.56 for an auto in a 97. Don't gear for 33s and then run 35s

Since you aren't broke down on the side of the road,what about taking some time searching for some used axles with lockers and chromoly shafts?

Or you could disassemble your axles and have them sandblasted like i did to a set i got from a new york jeep.then weld new brackets on.

 

[xXDavidCXx]

I'm with Rickyd and just clean off/cover up the rust on what you have.

I got a junkyard HPD30 and did just that. It looks great now.

 

[JMT]

Axles sound fine, just aesthetic. I’d just remove them, strip them, prep, and paint.

 

[bluescapegoat]

At the risk of sounding like a broken record here, just clean up the axles you have. Sand, paint, rebuild if you want.

Unless you found them at the bottom of the ocean the rust shouldn't be an issue on axles.

 

[BlueC]

Well yeah, I'd say thats just burning money. For starters I'm going to do the install, not paying someone else to do it. If you are going to make me put a number on it I'd like to get it done for less than say $3k per axle

With that budget, you're going to be rebuilding axles and doing most if not all the work yourself. That's not a bad thing, just know what to expect. You say you want to run 35s which need a little more strength that a stock 30/35 set up, even with just mild trails. General wisdom of the board says a 30 with chromoly shafts will be fine, a 44 would have a little stronger gear and allow a little deeper gearing. You already have a 30, so you wouldn't need to buy one of those. If you don't want or need a locker, then you could save some money there too.

For the rear you can do a Super35, find and swap in a Jeep 44, or something like a Ford 8.8. In the end, those will all have similar strengths. You already have a 35, so you wouldn't have to find and buy one, or cut and weld brackets. I went the Super35 route since I couldn't find a 44 for a decent price.

 

[suicideking]

I would stick with OEM axles. If you're not going to do much rock crawling, then a Dana 30 up front and Dana 44 rear would work fine. You would even be fine with a Dana 35 rear with a super 35 kit.

 

[tworley]

Unless you have money burning a hole in your pocket, just clean up what you currently have

 

[jjvw]

Unless you have money burning a hole in your pocket, just clean up what you currently have

And stay away from the fat and heavy 8.8!

 

[BlueC]

For starters I'm going to do the install

You should probably clarify what you mean by "I'm going to do the install". Does that mean you will be doing everything including rebuilding and regearing, or just the simple stuff like bolting the assembly in place.

 

[tworley]

And stay away from the fat and heavy 8.8!

Yes, absolutely!

 

[Matt Bergin]

And stay away from the fat and heavy 8.8!

Why? The extra unsprung weight carried that low will lower the CG and improve stability. Plus it is a super tough rear end good to over 1200 Hp with the right parts. I would recommend installing 9"housing ends so you can eliminate the C clips on the axles. Bonus you can grab the rear brakes from a Crown Vic and get 11" rear disk brakes in the deal.

 

[jjvw]

Why? The extra unsprung weight carried that low will lower the CG and improve stability. Plus it is a super tough rear end good to over 1200 Hp with the right parts. I would recommend installing 9"housing ends so you can eliminate the C clips on the axles. Bonus you can grab the rear brakes from a Crown Vic and get 11" rear disk brakes in the deal.

Perfect for a Metalcloak build with Patagonias!

 

[tworley]

Why? The extra unsprung weight carried that low will lower the CG and improve stability. Plus it is a super tough rear end good to over 1200 Hp with the right parts. I would recommend installing 9"housing ends so you can eliminate the C clips on the axles. Bonus you can grab the rear brakes from a Crown Vic and get 11" rear disk brakes in the deal.

That makes no sense for someone who is driving simple dirt roads.

The 8.8 is big, heavy, narrow and offset. Also need to factor in the fab work to make it fit under the TJ. For what the OP is doing, he is far better off using what he already has.

 

[Jamison C]

That makes no sense for someone who is driving simple dirt roads.

The 8.8 is big, heavy, narrow and offset. Also need to factor in the fab work to make it fit under the TJ. For what the OP is doing, he is far better off using what he already has.

I think his comment is what some of us refer to as satire At least that’s how I read it.