Re-gearing for 33's

Hub height x2 is different than whatever rpms per mile the tire manufacturer came up with. Hub height x2 will be more specific to the vehicle because it accounts for variances in tire pressure and vehicle weight. The tire manufacturer does not know these things.

Hub height x2 can also be verified by recording the gps speed at a given engine rpm and adjusting the tire diameter in a gear ratio calculator until the rpm and speed match what was recorded.

Hub height x2 will be the same as the adjusted tire diameter used in the gear ratio calculator.

So, if you record your RPM in the same gear at the same speed (measured by GPS), at 15 and 30 psi (altering hub height) the RPM will be different?
 
Hub height x2 will always be accurate to the vehicle at the time of measurement. It doesn't matter if the tires are brand new or worn bald. Just like the verification will always be accurate to the vehicle at the time of measurement.

Understanding this means we don't need to know or care what the manufacturer says about their tire measurements.

You did see where I said hub height 2x works fine, right? All I said is going off of the tire rpm also works for a long time and when the tire is newish can actually be more accurate (based on the dude above who measured his and the number was 98.75” based on my calculated 99” vs his measured hub height x2 being 97.75”), and that it has been accurate on at least on the 10 or so tires I’ve tested it with on multiple vehicles ranging from Jeeps to half ton trucks.

Either way both of those methods are 1000% more accurate than the advertised diameter which is never accurate, at all. That was the only point to me commenting. It was not to bicker about whether or not hub height or advertised rpm was more accurate.
 
Possible if the circumference increases with tire pressure.

The tires “rolling” circumference will decrease as the tire crumples due to the weight of the Jeep on the tire. A straight line is a shorter distance than an arc with the same two points of intersection.
 
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Pants off dance off...

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The tires “rolling” circumference will decrease as the tire crumples due to the weight of the Jeep on the tire. A straight line is a shorter distance than an arc with the same to points of intersection.

More complicated to me than it appeared at first glance (and fun to think about):

My underlying assumption is: for each axle revolution, the jeep moves forward a distance equal to the tire’s circumference.

Initially, I had assumed circumference to be a fixed value. But upon reflection, the contact patch is an ellipse that gets narrower left to right with increase in tire pressure. Therefore the center of the tread must have a greater radius than the sides and so a longer circumference (C=2 R pi). If that is correct, I think a decrease in engine RPM at a given speed with increased tire pressure (and hub height) is not directly do to the hub height change (although a specific relation could likely be described) , but instead the stretch in length of the tread that contacts the road. I should note that the above also assumes that the speed at a set RPM actually does increase with tire pressure as @jjvw asserts.

…or I’m completely missing something else.
 
Staying on topic - as a first hand experience - I have 4.56 gears with 42RLE and 4.0. Good for 31 inch tires which I am running. I would I would have 4.88, they would work better.
For 33s, I would go minimum 5.13 ( which is also a maximum with front Dana 30).
 
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Staying on topic - as a first hand experience - I have 4.56 gears with 42RLE and 4.0. Good for 31 inch tires which I am running. I would I would have 4.88, they would work better.
For 33s, I would go minimum 5.13 ( which is also a maximum with front Dana 30).

Have you not learned anything from the wasted posts suggesting 5.13s…this thread isn’t about helping OP anymore.
 
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I have the same combo as the OP and I will be putting in 5.13s when my garage cools down... hopefully October/November. Andy
 
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