JK Dana 44 Axles Into TJ

Btw, there is still much to do. It isn’t running yet, can’t drive, stop, or move, but it is on four wheels, and I grabbed it from my buddy’s garage where we were doing most of the work.

But..., without any further delay, here are a few progress pics.

RC

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Score! Looks sharp, I like the wheel choice.
I used the stock cables from my LJ. The factory LJ cable has a loop in the end and the JK backing plate also has a loop. I suspect the JK cables have a hook on em but a nut and bolt did the job just fine to attach them together.


There must have been a time
when we could have said no.
 
Score! Looks sharp, I like the wheel choice.
I used the stock cables from my LJ. The factory LJ cable has a loop in the end and the JK backing plate also has a loop. I suspect the JK cables have a hook on em but a nut and bolt did the job just fine to attach them together.


There must have been a time
when we could have said no.

So, to recap we ended up Fabricating a Drag Link and Front Track Bar, using Ruff Stuff Specialties 1.5”, .250” DOM straight stock, weld-in bungs, misalignent joints, and their universal Upper Track Bar Mount, etc. I should take a picture, but if you sit in front of the rig and look at it straight on, you can’t even see the Track Bar, because we oriented it at the perfect angle, so it is perfectly aligned with the Drag Link. I’m fairly happy with how it turned out. I had bought the TMR bracket, along with the Rock Krawler bracket that we had, but in the end, we modified the RuffStuff bracket and went that route.

Thanks for your advice and sharing feedback! I haven’t driven it yet, because it isn’t road-worthy yet, but I’ll let you know how it turns out.

RC


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Sounds good, here's some pictures I just dug up that apparently Google had backed up for me when my SD card died.

Rear axle setup:
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Initial Track bar setup. Angles were perfect and I had a stright drag link. However the bump steer was so bad I wasn't sure if I was going to to survive the drive home from the shop due to the uneven length (and I suspect the steep angle of both)

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The next try kept the frame side as is and moved the axle side outside of the spring. However moving it forward so the track bar cleared the spring made is so the drag link needed a small bend to clear the TB bracket. This fixed my steering issues using a modified knuckle. (the upper of the 2 arms was cut off) I later went to the Rancho knuckles to get away from heim joints and the handling has just gotten better.

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Here you can see the drag link bend
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If you hold a string between the joints the angle of the TB and DL are bang on, and now so are the lengths.

Now with the extra length that I had on the DL due to the modified knuckle you may get away with being inboard of the spring, who knows.

Oh and as a bonus here's what I did for the ebrake.


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And why limit straps are your friend.
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There must have been a time
when we could have said no.
 
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I have a great picture of the tabs before they got all dirty but for some reason I can't get that one file to upload. But basically they just have a hole drilled in the center with a slot cut to the edge to slide the cable through.


There must have been a time
when we could have said no.
 
Thanks, I'm still working out some of the bugs here and there 6 Years later (like I really do need to install those limit straps.) but I'm consistently happy with the results.


There must have been a time
when we could have said no.
 
Got the rig back from the Axle Shop (although it needs to go back to finish a step), and drilled out the brackets, installed the PSC rear bumper reinforcement brackets, and got the Smittybilt Tire Carrier on the rig. Wired up the license plate / 3rd Brake Light, and am waiting for Sharon to return from 4WP with a spare tire License bracket.

Tried fixing my leaking brake junction, and ended up making the leak worse. Back to the drawing board on this one. The bolt goes through the junction block (onto a surface; in this case my truss), and then the two left and right lines screw into the junction. The lines are dry and not leaking, but it is weeping out of the hole that the bolt goes through. I put copper washers on each end, and made matters worse. [emoji848]

Well, I made enough progress to bring the rig home tonight for the first time for a little “visitation”. Installed the bumper, license bracket, wired license plate/third brake light, fixed the leaking brake issue, installed the sPOD, and changed the oil for the first time.
It did come home for a brief visit, so I can wash it for the first time, and get all of the grinding dust and metal off of the fresh paint and wax her up.

Back to the shop tomorrow to begin to dial it in... plus, I need to figure out how to get the spare mounted due to a bolt pattern issue. (Frustrated on this...)

Well, it begins... Shari just took it on it’s maiden voyage from the shop to our house.

Still much work to do to dial it in, but it is much closer and able to move now.

Some subtle custom made decals in matte black for the Jeep logo, and the rig name in anthracite to match the roll-cage. #SundayNightDetails

#OneStepCloser #JeepTJ #StretchedTJ #Jeep #TimeToGoTopless #CoyoteUgly

RC


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Thanks bro! I’m a couple of weeks away from getting it dialed, etc, but it is coming along!

RC


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I rarely like tube fenders, but you pull it off nicely. What kind of wheels are those too? They look really great.
 
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I rarely like tube fenders, but you pull it off nicely. What kind of wheels are those too? They look really great.

Thanks man. I went with Poison Spyder DeFenders Front and Rear. The rear are the narrow width, and the front are the full width. The rear have a flange welded to them, so we could bolt them on, to remove them if needed. I had them painted to match the body when I had the rig painted, so they came out pretty clean.

The wheels are Icon wheels. I wanted something different; not too old, but not too new looking either.

I still have a laundry list of things to do to this thing. Need to dial bump stops next.

Stay tuned...

RC


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Looking good. For the spare, if the wheel spacer is pushing it too far out. I just punched out the studs, welded a 1/4" plate over top of the holes, then used a wheel spacer as a template to drill new holes. I also tacked the back of the studs to be sure they don't move.


There must have been a time
when we could have said no.
 
By the way, I have to assume people can hear you coming a mile away with those speakers? :p
 
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Alright... got the pesky spare on with the License Plate Bracket (don’t ask). Also addressed a runaway Control Arm Bolt (decided it was necessary). Back to the The Rear End Shop tomorrow for more work, and then I’ll dig back in later this week. [emoji1417]

RC

#OneStepCloser #JeepTJ #StretchedTJ #TimeToGoTopless #CoyoteUgly

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