If I hadn't been unknowingly subject to auto-corrrect when I created my username I would probably appreciate puns like that more.
32RH issues
- Thread starter mpbannon
- Start date
If I hadn't been unknowingly subject to auto-corrrect when I created my username I would probably appreciate puns like that more.
What year FSM is that from? It's wrong in the 97. Here’s from my ATSG with the correct orientation, which matches what you posted. To further confound things, when I drew it in I got it correct, but my intent was to draw it wrong to show how the FSM has it. The kickdown valve is the one that gets flipped different publications. Also the sleeve will slip all the way down the long end of the kickdown valve when the sleeve is oriented correctly. Try it both ways, you'll see when it's wrong.
Also this thread on FSM corrections:
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/fsm-factory-service-manual-corrections.64096/post-1164003
Also this thread on FSM corrections:
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/fsm-factory-service-manual-corrections.64096/post-1164003
TransGo TF-Detent Kit. The detent ball and spring have a tendency to wear out the bore that slide in and that causes an issue with getting your vehicle in and out of gear. It’s $50 for 3 sets and you only use one in the box but it’s far worth more than a new valve body. You can install a shift kit if you like, it’s always good to put one in any hydraulic or hydraulic-electric trans because it fixes some sort of issue that our transmissions have. Even if it’s the TFSC it’s still very helpful. I put the TF-1 in mine and I’m about done rebuilding my valve body.
Some tips I have; Take LOTS of pictures! Every single thing you take apart.
When cleaning and disassembling your Valve Body follow the diagram from @hear and I’ll add some pictures too.
A tool @hear didn’t mention that you will use is a dial indicator to check end play and a flathead pocket screwdriver.
You almost never need a new accumulator on anything hydraulic, if you get a new one you can get it from Cobra Racing Transmissions as well, part is $10 and D-Dings are like $6
Some tips I have; Take LOTS of pictures! Every single thing you take apart.
When cleaning and disassembling your Valve Body follow the diagram from @hear and I’ll add some pictures too.
A tool @hear didn’t mention that you will use is a dial indicator to check end play and a flathead pocket screwdriver.
You almost never need a new accumulator on anything hydraulic, if you get a new one you can get it from Cobra Racing Transmissions as well, part is $10 and D-Dings are like $6
I’m the poor guy @hear was talking about. I needed new thrust washers, new pressure plates, my front clutches and drum looked like this, I needed a new detent ball because it shot across the garage (if you get a shift kit, do not lose the numbly peg), my valve body valve were sticking in the bore (the should fall into their bore with 0 resistance and completely dry, they should fall into their bores so good you hear them bounce a little), that caused me to drop the VB again and I broke the neutral safety switch, my cooler lines blew up on me my 5th drive and left me stranded till I double clamped my feed to cooler (should have a flare, mine didn’t). I couldn’t get the output shaft snap ring on to hold in onto the planets. It’s been a hell of a trip but I’ve enjoyed the good and bad.
The pictures are my issue and the last are the valve body. Note the orientations and how the metal sleeve fits onto the Kickdown Plunger (it’s an Fing valve
I don’t know whoever thought to name it a plunger but it’s a valve as well)
It’s the far right one
My springs are different here so don’t feel like you’re missing something
The pictures are my issue and the last are the valve body. Note the orientations and how the metal sleeve fits onto the Kickdown Plunger (it’s an Fing valve
I don’t know whoever thought to name it a plunger but it’s a valve as well) It’s the far right one
My springs are different here so don’t feel like you’re missing something
I was thinking I might have sex with the wife this morning, but I got to look at transmission porn instead, so I'm good for a couple of days now.
I got this manual from here: https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...ice-manuals-fsm-technical-documentation.4618/
It looks like you had the same issue as me, except in the other clutch. Did you get your back together and in yet?
Also, I think I found a solution to my dip stick situation. JEGS sells a braided dip stick tube https://www.jegs.com/i/Trans-Dapt/969/8148/10002/-1 which is a lot better than the 150 to 200 on ebay.
It looks like you had the same issue as me, except in the other clutch. Did you get your back together and in yet?
Also, I think I found a solution to my dip stick situation. JEGS sells a braided dip stick tube https://www.jegs.com/i/Trans-Dapt/969/8148/10002/-1 which is a lot better than the 150 to 200 on ebay.
Yes I got it back in, that manual is very helpful. My transmission runs like a champ, my shifting issues came down to my valve body being the culprit. Any questions?
Front clutch clearance should be 1.70 to 3.40 mm (0.067 to 0.134 in.) (my Clearance is 2.41mm or 0.087 in.)
Rear clutch clearance should be 0.64 - 1.14 mm (0.025 - 0.045 in.) (My clearance is 0.81mm or 0.032 in.)
Front clutch clearance should be 1.70 to 3.40 mm (0.067 to 0.134 in.) (my Clearance is 2.41mm or 0.087 in.)
Rear clutch clearance should be 0.64 - 1.14 mm (0.025 - 0.045 in.) (My clearance is 0.81mm or 0.032 in.)
Very interesting. It says that's for a 904 so the dipstick depth is probably correct. I don't love $100 but I may go that route if I ever have to drop mine again. I'd rather have an o-ring than a mess of RTV.
Whoops! Wrong one. https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/615956/10002/-1
My brother found this. I still might try and repair the one I have but I have a feeling its not going to work with where it was broken.
My brother found this. I still might try and repair the one I have but I have a feeling its not going to work with where it was broken.
It snapped right where it concave down to where it goes into the grommet. Im not committed to buying this flex one yet, I am going to see if I can repair this one first but I do have my doubts.
is yours the grommet style or the o-ring style? Either way, I wouldn't spend a ton of effort trying to fix it. You'll only find out your fix didn't work when you start hemorrhaging ATF after you fill it. You should have the bucket under your drain plug ready, because you will lose plenty from that hole if you allow it.
Find that same dipstick you posted on Amazon, use our affiliate link to give the forum a kickback, and then ask @Chris to reimburse you as a research expense. Making the forum better, etc.
Find that same dipstick you posted on Amazon, use our affiliate link to give the forum a kickback, and then ask @Chris to reimburse you as a research expense. Making the forum better, etc.
I mean, lots of people find this forum because of my transmission rebuild videos, and @hosejockey61 generates a TON of traffic here on regear stuff. I mean, maybe we should just start our own forum...... wait, I may have already seen this movie. 
I've actually got a spare 32rh dipstick tube and dipstick, but i'm too much of a parts hoarder to let em go.....
yeah, mines from my extra 32rh as well, which i may eventually rebuild, with some guidance from @hear 's videos
I need to rebuild another one, because I want to film it in a completely different way. I haven't seen a core show up on marketplace in a while.
Similar threads
