Next dumb question, the yoke has a wear groove in it - just enough to catch a fingernail. I'm concerned that if I replace it, it will mess up my paint line on the nut "calibration".
Front diff bearing oddness, run it or replace it?
- Thread starter Zorba
- Start date
Sometimes, the recess for the seal is deeper than the thickness (the measurement up and down in your picture of the yoke above) of the seal. If so, you can replace the seal and install it at a different depth so that the lip rides in a different spot on the mating surface. I don't know if that's the case for you axle or not, though.
If not, and it's just barely detectable with your fingernail, you might be able to burnish it out enough with a strip of emery cloth. I've done that successfully many times on hydraulic cylinder rods on tractors and other implements over the years.
In the meantime, I have the inner bearing pulled off the pinion. Other than the large oil slinger dingus, there are NO shims associated with that bearing. None. Zip. Zero. Nada. I find that rather odd, I guess there is a "perfect" one once in a while? Still have yet to pull the outer.
Burnishing is a term used to mean very little material is removed, so, yes, the spring in the seal will compensate (assuming it's a typical seal with a spring inside the lip - again, I'm speaking generally, not specific to your pinion seal).
I'm no help with this one. Again - unfamiliar territory for me.
The slinger IS your shim. From the factory they would determine depth and install a single shim of that thickness.
Well, "Eff me!". You learn something new every damn day. Thank you Sir - and I was watching one of your vids earlier today which was VERY helpful!
I'm pretty sure it does have a spring, but I'll verify. Thanx for your help.
Tried briefly to remove the old seal the hammer and screwdriver method. "Eff this, let's go see what the correct way is to do this..."
A $9 tool from Hazard Fraught. Biggest no brainer in the history of mankind.
EDIT: Yep, the seal does indeed have the usual spring. Now I know what its for...
Will need to pick up some crocus cloth.
Last edited:
This is my exact recommendation . , I have done what sab said multiple times and it works !
Yes, but...
I would lose my paint mark - which probably wouldn't be the end of the world as I also measured the top of shaft to top of nut distance. However, if the splined length of the new yoke was more than about 10 mils different, or even the threaded portion was different, that would be very confusing to this rookie. I'm gonna try crocus cloth first - we'll see what happens...
That yoke looks fine, I would absolutely reuse it.
Having spent a bunch of time on the trails with Oklahoma XJ owners, I can confidently state that there is a WIDE margin between what this forum says is ok to send and what actually gets shiz done. Whatever the question is, the answer is "send it."
More confusion. One of the two pinion bearings I ordered is the wrong one. Sigh...
Inner Race - 88610
Inner Bearing - 88649
Outer Race - 86610
Outer Bearing - 86649
The flipping of 8's and 6's makes things confusing. 88 - inner, 86 - outer.
Don't need "Spicer" specifically, as they do not make the bearings anyways. Originally used by Spicer were Timkens, so that's what I go with for stock rebuilds.
Inner Bearing - 88649
Outer Race - 86610
Outer Bearing - 86649
The flipping of 8's and 6's makes things confusing. 88 - inner, 86 - outer.
Don't need "Spicer" specifically, as they do not make the bearings anyways. Originally used by Spicer were Timkens, so that's what I go with for stock rebuilds.
Similar threads
