Rear locker question

Bensjeeptj

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Boone, North Carolina
I have a 2003 Sahara with the Dana 44 rear axle with 3.73 rear gears. I’m looking into doing a rear locker of some sort because the open differential is limiting me off-road right now.

I’m aware that the rubicon model either had lockers as an option, or standard (not sure). Is it possible to utilize a factory rubicon locker? Is this the easiest option?

I’m open to all sort of options, what the best choice for me, most of my driving is on road, so please don’t suggest I weld my diff lol.

I’m in college, so I’m trying to get the best bang for my buck, this forum seems like a good place to start my research. Thanks in advance!
 
You don't want the rubicon lockers, they are hard to find in the first place, and any replacement parts are unobtainium. You could put a lunchbox/automatic locker in the front, which would be the cheapest option. Second cheapest might be an eaton truetrac if you're set on doing a rear locker/limited slip. next most expensive would be selectable lockers like the cable operated OX locker, eaton e-locker or ARB air locker.
 
You don't want the rubicon lockers, they are hard to find in the first place, and any replacement parts are unobtainium. You could put a lunchbox/automatic locker in the front, which would be the cheapest option. Second cheapest might be an eaton truetrac if you're set on doing a rear locker/limited slip. next most expensive would be selectable lockers like the cable operated OX locker, eaton e-locker or ARB air locker.

I’m not set on anything, it seems to me, with my limited knowledge, that a rear locker is better if I’m only planning on doing one, but I may be wrong.

Unless it’s recommended I’m likely going to just do one, I’m limited by money, and experience right now. Is a front locker going to significantly increase wheeling performance with a rear open differential?

Edit: also, is a front locker, (or any locker) going to destroy axle shafts? I trust the Dana 44, because it seems pretty heavy duty, especially with just 33s. Is a locked front dana 30 with 33s going to grenade itself?
 
Amazing! That’s likely what I’ll do then! Thanks for the help

Fwiw I upgraded my front Dana 30 with the PowerTrax no slip lunchbox locker last year. I'm also on 33s with an open rear diff for now.

I can attest that having the front locked has been a SIGNIFICANT improvement in capability. I'm still on stock shafts 🫣, but I also tend to be easy on the loud pedal where possible.

For $300, I don't think there is a better bang for your buck performance improvement out there.

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What tire size are you running and do you plan to upgrade or regear?

Since you're going to be removing the carrier now would be the time.

I very much love my Eaton e-lockers front and rear.

-Mac

I’m currently on 31x10.5r15, but I plan to go to 33x10.5r15 for differential clearance, I don’t have plans to regear, unless it’s highly recommended. I’m aware it’s not a perfect solution, but driving a stick, I’ll be able to adjust my shifting, which sort of achieves the same outcome.
 
Is a locked front dana 30 with 33s going to grenade itself?

I also suggest a front locker for two reasons: 1) it will add substantial capability, 2) they are cheap (sub $400).

It will not grenade. What you do need is some 4140 chromoly shafts for 33's+. I have been running a PowerTrax No Slip in a Dana 30 since 2017 and I've run 33's and 35's with chromoly shafts and it's never given me one ounce of trouble.
 
I’m currently on 31x10.5r15, but I plan to go to 33x10.5r15 for differential clearance, I don’t have plans to regear, unless it’s highly recommended. I’m aware it’s not a perfect solution, but driving a stick, I’ll be able to adjust my shifting, which sort of achieves the same outcome.

With 33s you're going to want 4.88s.

Unless you enjoy having a three speed or plan on setting a land speed record in a vehicle that's less aerodynamic than a cow.

Highly recommended.

And if you're in there doing a locker...this is the time.

We can help...well...we care try to help. @hosejockey61 will do the real helping.

Take a look at his channel BFH Garage for some excellent regear videos.

Also check the resources section and how to guide sections and do some research.

-Mac
 
With 33s you're going to want 4.88s.

Unless you enjoy having a three speed or plan on setting a land speed record in a vehicle that's less aerodynamic than a cow.

Highly recommended.

And if you're in there doing a locker...this is the time.

We can help...well...we care try to help. @hosejockey61 will do the real helping.

Take a look at his channel BFH Garage for some excellent regear videos.

Also check the resources section and how to guide sections and do some research.

-Mac

When in regearing, am I also replacing gears in the front diff? What’s the all in price look like for that?
 
One more vote for front lunchbox locker. I installed one in my TJ long ago and as said already it is great off-road and not noticeable on-road.

I just installed one in mine. If I can ever get the damn thing back together, I can go try it out! Its already been about six weeks...
 
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When in regearing, am I also replacing gears in the front diff? What’s the all in price look like for that?

You'd need new gears in the front and rear.

So there's something called a carrier break...3.73 and below/above I believe...so you need a new carrier for 4.88 and that carrier can be an Eaton, Ox or ARB locker.

Why it's important to have your build mapped out.

-Mac
 
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Mac is trying to keep you in poverty. 😂

Installing just the lunchbox is $400 in parts and is relatively easy, I did it without prior experience just YouTube and this forum.

The reason I chose the lunchbox is you get the same traction benefit of a selectable locker without the expense of replacing the carrier, gears, etc. but if I decide to regear down the road I can still keep the same locker up front if I want.

I'm really hoping to find some 410s out of a 4 banger that's being parted out that I could swap my locker into and axle swap my Jeep.
 
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Mac is trying to keep you in poverty. 😂

Installing just the lunchbox is $400 in parts and is relatively easy, I did it without prior experience just YouTube and this forum.

The reason I chose the lunchbox is you get the same traction benefit of a selectable locker without the expense of replacing the carrier, gears, etc. but if I decide to regear down the road I can still keep the same locker up front if I want.

I'm really hoping to find some 410s out of a 4 banger that's being parted out that I could swap my locker into and axle swap my Jeep.

I’ve been chatting it up with some buddies from my off-road club, and we’ve basically figured that the 3.73 gears will be totally suitable to upgrade to 33s for what I do, an eventual upgrade may be in order, but for know it’s fine.

Yes, I’ll lose some torque, and the higher gears will be more gutless, but it’s alright, it’s a jeep, they were never meant to be fast, and I’ll supplement by giving ‘er some more skinny pedal.
 
I’ve been chatting it up with some buddies from my off-road club, and we’ve basically figured that the 3.73 gears will be totally suitable to upgrade to 33s for what I do, an eventual upgrade may be in order, but for know it’s fine.

Yes, I’ll lose some torque, and the higher gears will be more gutless, but it’s alright, it’s a jeep, they were never meant to be fast, and I’ll supplement by giving ‘er some more skinny pedal.

Proper gearing is, well, proper in every sense of the term.
 
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I’ve been chatting it up with some buddies from my off-road club, and we’ve basically figured that the 3.73 gears will be totally suitable to upgrade to 33s for what I do, an eventual upgrade may be in order, but for know it’s fine.

Yes, I’ll lose some torque, and the higher gears will be more gutless, but it’s alright, it’s a jeep, they were never meant to be fast, and I’ll supplement by giving ‘er some more skinny pedal.

Friends like yours are why people keep justifying shitty Jeeps.