Cut off for well mannered, street-able TJ?
- Thread starter Bowhunter
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speeding_infraction
TJ Addict
That is the reason you can afford the Jeep!
Damn straight! If she comes with baggage so do I
Jokes aside, I wouldn't spend that kind of money for stock location shocks.
An outboarded rear setup gets your shock closer to the forces at the tire for better leverage, and a longer quality tunable shock allows for a quality tune to provide better handling and ride quality. Similar idea up front using a shock tower that allows for a longer tunable shock.
speeding_infraction
TJ Addict
And how much work is that? Sounds like a lot but I've overestimated stuff like that before.
As much fun as I have had with this thread it might end up costing me a few dollars as my current set up sucks, specifically on road. On road manners are more important to me than crawling
My expertise in suspension comes from the two wheeled world, I've never tackled the jeep seriously but know that what we do to the rear affects the front but in the jeep I am crawling, not trying to clear the hoops at speed. On road manners are more important to me than crawling at 5mph.
If I install the outboard shocks on the rear, will I regret not modifying the front?
My expertise in suspension comes from the two wheeled world, I've never tackled the jeep seriously but know that what we do to the rear affects the front but in the jeep I am crawling, not trying to clear the hoops at speed. On road manners are more important to me than crawling at 5mph.
If I install the outboard shocks on the rear, will I regret not modifying the front?
If you build the Jeep to perform well on pavement, it will take care of you off road. The sports car stability and control we are describing on the road directly translates to rock crawling.
The rear shocks work twice on every event. First the rears respond to the front hitting the event. Then rears respond to the event itself.
There is an improvement with only the rears. But the magic doesn't start happening until both ends begin working together. Sway bars are the same way.
speeding_infraction
TJ Addict
speeding_infraction
TJ Addict
After a bit of research there's no way I'm outboarding the shocks on my jeep. I'm not interested in cutting the frame and welding the back in, that's way too much work for me. Plus, I don't have access to a lift and don't have enough confidence in my welding skills for a trick like that.
A lift just makes it harder, take longer, and you wind up with a lesser dialed in mounting location. I've done 100's of outboard jobs, I've never used a lift. The work always comes out much better when you can actually jack the axles up against a chained down chassis.
speeding_infraction
TJ Addict
Thanks... I guess that's what assuming does. What is the level of skill required to do something like this? I have a titanium Mig 140 from HF, only ran it gasless. Never welded anything this structural before.
I have a skewed understanding of skill since what I often find easy for me seems to confound others. I would generally say with a tutor helping who has some experience, it would be very doable. There is a build thread where the gent was doing this and while it was clear there was some good skills in play, the understanding of how to get from point A to point B needed some refinement. That did happen and it came out pretty good.
Do you have anyone that could help?
speeding_infraction
TJ Addict
I think the most in depth project I've done so far is replace an AX15.
We have a couple fab guys here, and I could probably get away with using the shop welder
I think the most in depth project I've done so far is replace an AX15.
We have a couple fab guys here, and I could probably get away with using the shop welder
if you do yours, I'll bring mine up and we can do mine next... Just saying.
Well I cheated and used the lift to raise the tub up a bit to make welding easier.
Which could have been done with a floor jack or my hi lift.
-Mac
You also used your lift to hold the rear axle over your head while you tried to sledge it inward enough to get the clips off. Had you lowered it to knee level, just the weight of the sledge in a gentle arc would have delivered twice the impact with half of the effort. Kinda like watching your granny shower through the gap in the curtain, just because you can, doesn't necessarily mean you should.
I'm getting to the point in my research and build (mainly research 
) where I know the "near" future goal, but the next step after that is muddy. Currently all my efforts are set to go to 35's with only brakes and steering holding me back at this point. My original thought about what to do after that was to finally convert my armor and bumpers to aluminum and finally get rid of all the heavy steel. This thread put suspension back in the forefront of my mind, so much so that it actually makes a lot of sense to have that be the next step. Lord knows my whole suspension set up needs a serious refresh and upgrade, only the springs are worth saving.
) where I know the "near" future goal, but the next step after that is muddy. Currently all my efforts are set to go to 35's with only brakes and steering holding me back at this point. My original thought about what to do after that was to finally convert my armor and bumpers to aluminum and finally get rid of all the heavy steel. This thread put suspension back in the forefront of my mind, so much so that it actually makes a lot of sense to have that be the next step. Lord knows my whole suspension set up needs a serious refresh and upgrade, only the springs are worth saving.
Good call. Not used to having a lift. The whole concept of moving a vehicle anywhere I want to make things easier is mind blowing.
-Mac
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