What did you do to your TJ today?

The ultra-rare Willy's Wrangler Unlimited
Willys Wrangler.webp


Hey, it sounds good anyway.
 
In my 69 Jeep that had some pretty decent rust (mostly in the tub), the best agent for getting them loose we found was Kroil. I’m not sure if we tried PB Blaster or how it compares, but may be another one worth trying out. Granted the Midwest rust is no joke, so maybe there’s no other option than breaking off heads.

When I was getting my old Farmall tractor back to running after sitting for years, I had some rusted up linkages that I had to free up. PB Blaster just wasn't doing it. Kroil did the trick.
 
Dana 300 upgrade!

JB Conversions LoMax 4:1 gear set for the Dana 300 transfer case. Beefier than an Atlas gear case gears. Twin sticked and heavy duty output shaft already installed. Much shorter than a 231 or 241. The 300 measures 10.5 inches from yoke to yoke. The 231 measures in at 21.5 inches. And no baby “pimp chain” to stretch and break. Gear driven like the good ole days.
58ABB88B-FC61-43EC-9528-2BD9330F07C0.webp
0FA3ECFA-1D4C-4F14-B237-1466A189317A.webp
 
Cant stand that quality manufacturers are going to China for manufacturing.

Some of Warn’s products have gone to crap because of it. But I guess most consumers lack attention to detail and don't notice or care, hence why it continues to be a trend.

My brother picked up an American Made Warn snatch block the other day under $50 which was a pretty rare find. They have since moved manufacturing to China under a new part number.

View attachment 61395 View attachment 61397
Oh I've noticed. I got a crappy Warn winch cover, I got a crappy warn winch bumper, and my M8000 winch came with both SAE and Metric bolts. I ended up breaking a metric bolt with a standard nut on the solenoid pack. What sickens me is it isn't any cheaper than it used to be when it was all made in the US. I paid $80 bucks for a foreign made cover where I paid less than 50 bucks for my last US made cover from warn. It seems like the the corporations are saving the money, but it doesn't seem like they are passing that off to us consumers. I think after a while they will start to loose sales and figure it out, because I do not recommend spending 80 dollars for a sub par winch cover. Or spend 300 dollars for a winch bumper that needed 150 dollars more to fix it right. Oh yeah I am not really happy with warn myself. Not to mention that it took me over 6 months to get my rebate from the winch. I know that that isn't exactly warns fault but they did pick the crappy rebate company to represent them. I am sure to save money.

I don't mind paying more money for quality work. I don't need a rebate on sub par parts.

I am with you. The problem we have is, I don't think there are any US competition in this market.
 
In my 69 Jeep that had some pretty decent rust (mostly in the tub), the best agent for getting them loose we found was Kroil. I’m not sure if we tried PB Blaster or how it compares, but may be another one worth trying out. Granted the Midwest rust is no joke, so maybe there’s no other option than breaking off heads.
I'm beginning to think that PB Blaster is just formulated to make bolts break easier. My daughter is off to college, so I have an extra car around to drive. So, I've started a mini-restoration of sorts on the little guy. Lots and lots of wire wheel work and respraying everything with Eastwood Rust Encapsulator. New springs, new shocks and some other goodies. I'll try to get some pics up. I did the front end over the last couple of weeks, and now I am onto the rear. Then the middle. Then the paint and interior. It's going to keep me busy all winter.
 
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Re-sealed my rear diff cover, again. Cover is warped. Gave my old cover to a forum member. Now I'm wishing I had it, lol!
 
Holy shit it is cold where you are.

We hit 15 degrees in the early morning hours a few weeks ago. I'm not a fan of winter.

I would love to know more info about this! Very cool!!

A few write-ups exist. This one is a gntx 177 from an early 00s Tahoe, cost $11 at a pull-n-pay. It has an auto dimming feature and the compass/temp display. Snag the mirror and small computer board plus the wiring. The wiring on mine started out as a 7 pin. In my photo you can see only 4 are used. Power, ground, and the final two are for the temp sensor.
 
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doing some prep work to fix the damaged sections of Eastwood internal frame paint, while I was at it I pulled off my stock rear bumper for the first time to get a good look see at the cross member & also to help get better access to the end of the frame without the bumper bolt sticking up in there. Cross member is in good shape, no signs of rust anywhere:

Rear cross member.webp


got a look at it for the first time ever without the milk jugs, I think they're not going back on, this looks much better. Do they make some kind of end caps to cover the sides of the bumper?

Edit: scratch that, found them, Bezos sells them for $16

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00407GO72/?tag=wranglerorg-20

013.webp


pulled my line all the way out to re-spool, it's been long overdue

015.webp


Oh, and of course I snapped a bolt. Driver's side frame bolt, both bumper bolts & body mount bolt came out without a problem, passenger side 3 out of 4 came right out but the frame bolt snapped, which of course was THE LAST ONE. Rather that fucking around with it for probably days with the wrong tools I drove over to my buddy's/mechanic's house & he hit it with the torch & yanked it out with vice grips in 5 minutes. I really need one of those, and a compressor/all accessories, and a lift, engine hoist, garage heater & 3 or 400 other things :p
 
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got a look at it for the first time ever without the milk jugs, I think they're not going back on, this looks much better. Do they make some kind of end caps to cover the sides of the bumper?

Edit: scratch that, found them, Bezos sells them for $16

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00407GO72/?tag=wranglerorg-20

Nice find on the end caps, I was just thinking this morning how the stock rear bumper would look without the extensions.
 
Seeing as my centre console is looking shabby (I painted it and the paint refuses to stick in some spots) I decided to put 'Operation Ammo case' into effect...found a used shorter center console for $20 and pulled the trigger on that bargin...the ammo case will be trickier to find but will do some measurements once the console arrives...I'll make an arm rest for it and cut a slot for the hand-brake(E-brake)...thinking about painting it the body colour (Steel blue) but will get the fab work done first.
 
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