This is old post to bring up. But have you or anyone else ever considered the OMF beadlock conversion on the factory Rubicon wheels? I've inquired about it and may go through with it. I personally love the Rubicon wheels and next come in the AEV pintler Beadlocks. I do realize that for that amount of money you could buy New aftermarket Beadlocks. I'm not a fan of the big aftermarket section of Beadlocks. To me they don't fit the factory Jeep style very well. I do not plan to ever run a tire over 35 so the 16s will be fine. The conversion process can add any where from 1/2 inch or more to the width depending on your preference. Lastly I know weight is a big topic with the Beadlocks. After converting the 16" wheel it will only add 6 lbs per wheel.
Daily Driver, Go Where I Want To Build
- Thread starter jjvw
- Start date
How much is the conversion? I like the idea except that the Moab is still a 16".
$255/wheel. Includes ring and hardware. You'll have to pay shipping both ways. I'd say after it's said and done your looking at $1500-1700 for a set of 5. Also the ring is positioned where you cannot destroy the valve stem.
Just a minor repair and attempt at an improvement today. A while back, I added a pair of USB charging plugs hidden behind the glove box to power my homemade wireless phone charger and a spare phone for music.
I used one of these...
Two actually. As they don't seem to last long.
But this Blue Sea USB charger has worked perfectly on my center dash going on 5 years.
So I got another one...
Blue Sea Systems Dual USB Charger Socket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0082CXEI8/?tag=wranglerorg-20
I removed the mounting plate and stuck a piece of irrigation pipe in the back to protect the terminals.
Here is where the charging outlet goes. Hopefully this one will live longer.
I used one of these...
Two actually. As they don't seem to last long.
But this Blue Sea USB charger has worked perfectly on my center dash going on 5 years.
So I got another one...
Blue Sea Systems Dual USB Charger Socket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0082CXEI8/?tag=wranglerorg-20
I removed the mounting plate and stuck a piece of irrigation pipe in the back to protect the terminals.
Here is where the charging outlet goes. Hopefully this one will live longer.
Last edited:
Sorry, I don't have anything specific on mine. The install is the same as most other hand throttles. The only thing special is that mine is made of high end bicycle parts left over from another hobby.
I've got the terraflex version on mine, instructions were pretty decent. Drilled a small hole in the existing cruise control bracket to mount. Only thing I don't like is the small rattle it created where the end of the cable sits within the bike shifter, don't know if that's avoidable using different parts.
Following up on my XJ hood prop retainer clip from November 2014...
Four years later, it fell off.
Someone somewhere made mention that they added a rare earth magnet in place of their broken clip. A while back, I scavenged a handful of 1/2" cube magnets from a project at work. These have been very useful for many things over the years.
I stuck one of the cubes inside the hood brace where the clip once was.
The magnet has been in there for about a week. I changed the oil tonight and the prop is still stuck up where it belongs. Success?
Some of us don't have to pay shipping. They are 17 miles away in a straight line and I've seen a set of the Moabs done by them. Good looking wheel.
The converted Moab really does look good as a beadlock. I actually like it better than Hutchinson's version.
Great thread with tons of great info here!
I live in the area (moved out here a few years ago), and if you're ever in the mood to train a newbie with a basic TJ the ropes, I'd be willing to learn!
I live in the area (moved out here a few years ago), and if you're ever in the mood to train a newbie with a basic TJ the ropes, I'd be willing to learn!
I rarely see stuff that confounds my sense of like and dislike. That does and I'm just confused.
Agreed. It's almost there aesthetically and reminds me of the home woodworker guys who think they need to use a round over bit on every single edge and corner. It's too soft and lacks definition.
Thanks! Spring is when the fun picks up again. Yankee Hill is a fun easy trail near Idaho Springs to explore. A stock TJ will have no trouble, but can be a challenge if desired.
Cool deal. I'll give it a lookup, and start prepping!
Though I don't have any real plans to go higher at this point, I do have plans to make it more solid. I've got 2 teenagers, and a twenty year old in college, the funding streams are more of a trickle right now. :-/
This is a thought that I want to get written down concerning the ability to fit 35s on the Jeep in the way that I want them to fit.
Starting at post #313 and into the 330's we talk a bit about MCE fenders and how they create tire clearance similar to Metalcloak fenders by removing the parts of the fender that interfere with flex.
While there are measurable clearance gains in certain areas, neither can be fully compared to a true high line with a cut hood because the inner fenders and hood line remain at the same height as stock. On a factory fender, and the way mine is currently setup, often the final limit to up travel is the flexing tire contacting the outer fender sheet metal.
My front bump stop extension and "temporary" front upper shock mount relocation is set up with this limit in mind. If the outer fender were to be moved/removed, the flexing tire could be brought closer to the hood line, a larger tire could be fitted, or some combination of the two. The will also translate into a small increase (or a lesser sacrifice, depending on the combination of parts/mods) of up travel at full bump.
Starting at post #313 and into the 330's we talk a bit about MCE fenders and how they create tire clearance similar to Metalcloak fenders by removing the parts of the fender that interfere with flex.
While there are measurable clearance gains in certain areas, neither can be fully compared to a true high line with a cut hood because the inner fenders and hood line remain at the same height as stock. On a factory fender, and the way mine is currently setup, often the final limit to up travel is the flexing tire contacting the outer fender sheet metal.
My front bump stop extension and "temporary" front upper shock mount relocation is set up with this limit in mind. If the outer fender were to be moved/removed, the flexing tire could be brought closer to the hood line, a larger tire could be fitted, or some combination of the two. The will also translate into a small increase (or a lesser sacrifice, depending on the combination of parts/mods) of up travel at full bump.
Last edited:
Part of my desire for my build is to keep the Jeep looking relatively stock in appearance and generally understated for what it actually is. As much as I like them, I have aesthetic reservations about a true high line, like Poison Spyder or Nemesis fenders.
And I have so much added stuff under the hood that I don't really want to figure out how to relocate everything as a result of the raised inner fenders.
And I have so much added stuff under the hood that I don't really want to figure out how to relocate everything as a result of the raised inner fenders.
Last edited:
Similar threads
