New to the Jeep world, what do I have?

[Oscar1]

Okay folks, to make a short story long: I run a towing company and ended up getting a title to an unclaimed impounded vehicle. A 1998 Jeep Wrangler 4.0. I had no keys to this vehicle as it was abandoned and all 4 tires were flat, I decided to take a chance and have a key cut for it rather than sending it to auction, mostly because it looked fun. New key, new battery, she fires right up! 75k miles, great running engine. To shorten my extended story, I've fixed the obvious things, idler pulley, belt, battery, rear upper control arms (RC adjustable,) and the rear trac bar (also RC adjustable.) It still rides like a Jeep with 35" tires and a lift, as expected, but before I continue to dump money into it, I'd like some professional input as to what exactly I have.

What I know: It is a 98 Wrangler TJ with the 4.0. It has 35" tires, new trac bar, and new control arms in the back. The wipers do not work.

What I don't know: How much lift it has, what kind of lockers (and how to properly use them,) what the pinion angle IS, how to check it, and what it should be (something looks very off in the rear)

Pictures will be coming momentarily, they are all on my phone, but if anyone can help me identify anything and get me pointed in the right direction on any of these issues it would be much appreciated!

 

[Chris]

Well for starters, go here and enter your VIN:

https://fcacommunity.force.com/RAM/s/equipment-listing
That will give you the factory build sheet and tell you what model it is, as well as whether or not it has a Dana 44 rear axle.

I'm guessing it's not a Rubicon, in which case it doesn't have factory lockers. Did someone install lockers in it? If so, is there switches on the dash indicating it has lockers? Have you tested them out? You could always remove the diff covers and see what kind of lockers they are, but if they have air lines (and an air compressor) running to them, they are most likely ARB. If they are electric, they are most likely an Eaton E-Locker. If they aren't selectable lockers, then they are lunchbox lockers so they are "always on" so to speak.

As for the suspension setup, I would guess it's a 4" lift. Rough Country makes pretty low quality components and isn't considered one of the "good brands" for lifts, however, it will suffice in most cases.

Those look like Smittbilt (another low quality company) tube fenders. They aren't great, but they also won't hurt.

From what I gather, it's a budget built Jeep, which isn't a bad thing. You can still have a ton of fun with it for sure, and it's already built, so why wouldn't you?

Photos of the underside, transfer case skid, steering, etc., would definitely help.

 

[LieutenantJohnson]

Pictures of suspension, steering , interior (dash pics) will help determine some things. Stock coils measure @ 12" (front ) and 8" (rear) at ride height

Look for any switches on the dash for air locker/e locker. You could also put the jeep on stands and 4low, tranny in neutral and spin a tire, only the one tire should spin UNLESS you have an auto locker, both will spin. Or go on some dirt road and put in 4low and see how easy/hard it is to turn...if it is difficult you have a locker.

For pinion angle, see below to determine what your setup is and how is should be. For the front, pinion angle is a compromise between Pinion angle and Caster.

 

[John Scoggins]

It looks like the front sway bar is disconnected in the pics

 

[Oscar1]

Here are some more pictures, you can see the spring height as well as some goofy looking spacers on top of them, and the last one is what I assume to be for the lockers, it appears to just be a cable running from the handles directly to each axle. It looks to be a DANA 44 rear axle based on my Ford Truck experience. And based on the color of the tub and hood (doors are not original to Jeep) I’d guess it was a Sahara?

 

[Oscar1]

It looks like the front sway bar is disconnected in the pics

Indeed, i took those off. It had quick disconnect links on it. Bushings were all shot so i ordered a new bushing kit. They measure roughly 12" long if that helps determine anything.

 

[LieutenantJohnson]

Looks like you have OX cable lockers f/r. That is a nice bonus! Probably a sagged out 4" RC lift as well.

Your rear shock tubes are really close to the lower coil buckets. I would check to make sure they are not contacting

 

[bobthetj03]

Looks like 4" lift springs and the goofy spacers are actually an adjustable bump stop system (ACCOS). Ox lockers front/rear.

 

[Oscar1]

 

[tworley]

Check the frame, its definitely got some rust.

Dana 30, Dana 44, ox lockers, SYE and double cardan driveshaft, looks like a 3" lift with budget boost.

 

[LieutenantJohnson]

View attachment 129881View attachment 129882View attachment 129883View attachment 129884

Looks like the original owner installed lower shock adapters to move the shock away ( you can remove and shave bucket if you want), as Tworley stated, SYE and DC shaft which is a bonus. LOTS of rust though...

I would do dry steering test to determine the quality of the steering components as they look stock.

Also check BJs and wheel bearings up fronts. Jack up tire and get a pry bar under tire and lift up/down to determine if BJs have play. Grab wheel at 3 and 9 oclock and wiggle in/out to determine if wheel bearings are good or bad.

 

[bluescapegoat]

I agree, looks largely like a budget build but with good money spent some places. Ox locks, some sort of cage (can't tell if it's a full cage or just a "sport" cage) definitely looks like a Dana 44 rear but hard to tell with the lighting and aftermarket cover. I'd also guess a 4" lift. Rear pinion looks pretty close. SYE with aftermarket shaft. Those shocks are probably Rough Country too, those are the worst riding shocks I've ever felt. At droop the rear is making contact like somebody else said. They're already dented. You just need to trim the coil bucket for clearance.

Also looks to me like there is no body lift

 

[Oscar1]

So now that I'm looking at it, the pinion angle in the back just looks really wrong. I imagine that the axle is tilted back too far to reduce the angle a little but shouldn't the angle of the axle be parallel to the output of the transfer case? Also i notice looking at it that the PO put little shock relocation brackets on it and one of them is cracked all the way across.

In regards to these ACOS things, is this something that would be easily removable? I imagine these tires wouldnt clear well with them gone NOW but when the time comes for new tires I'll likely go with 33s instead of 35s.

 

[bluescapegoat]

So now that I'm looking at it, the pinion angle in the back just looks really wrong. I imagine that the axle is tilted back too far to reduce the angle a little but shouldn't the angle of the axle be parallel to the output of the transfer case? Also i notice looking at it that the PO put little shock relocation brackets on it and one of them is cracked all the way across.

In regards to these ACOS things, is this something that would be easily removable? I imagine these tires wouldnt clear well with them gone NOW but when the time comes for new tires I'll likely go with 33s instead of 35s.

With an aftermarket double cardan (double u-joint) at the transfercase end the proper pinion angle would be nearly dead straight at the axle end, if not a degree low. That's why your shocks are contacting the coil bucket as well, because the axle is pitched for the pinion angle.

LieutenantJohnson gave you a fantastic reference image earlier in the thread.

 

[Oscar1]

The ball joints are fairly loose (4/10 by shop standards) and the rest of the steering is pretty tight, surprisingly. I'll probably be putting some Spicer ball joints in it next week. I refuse to use any other brand on my wreckers so they ought to be good enough here! as far as the shocks, they are indeed rough country. Is this the factory driveshaft setup? The angle looks wrong to me unless it is whatever this CV style I've heard about. Sorry if i am asking stupid questions, by the way.

I'm also terrible at keeping up here. You guys are ON IT. by the time i write my reply, I've already missed three!

 

[Oscar1]

With an aftermarket double cardan (double u-joint) at the transfercase end the proper pinion angle would be nearly dead straight at the axle end, if not a degree low. That's why your shocks are contacting the coil bucket as well, because the axle is pitched for the pinion angle.

LieutenantJohnson gave you a fantastic reference image earlier in the thread.

That makes sense. I've been looking at it as though it were a conventional setup. Thanks!

 

[bobthetj03]

Get us a picture of the pitman arm up front as well as the track bar mount on the axle side. Looks like a stock TB, so I'd like to see what kind of shenanigans they did to center the axle.

 

[Oscar1]

Check the frame, its definitely got some rust.

Dana 30, Dana 44, ox lockers, SYE and double cardan driveshaft, looks like a 3" lift with budget boost.

It looks as though the frame right before the rear wheels was rotted, but it appears to be cut out and reinforced. That was actually one of the first things i noticed! Are there any other problem areas of the frame that i should check? I havent been under it much as its snowy and crappy here in Ohio.

 

[LieutenantJohnson]

yup your rear Dshaft angle looks good to me. You are the judge though. Do you feel any driveline vibes? If not, you are good. Some vibes are from defective ujoints though, so be careful to inspect those.

As for the shock adapter that is cracked. Just toss them in the garbage and get a grinder out to clearance the coil buckets from the shock. He must have installed them AFTER denting the shock.

As for the ACOS spacer. Yes you can get rid of it, but you will most likely have to add to the bump stops, as you will lower the lift (tires may contact fenders AND shocks may be too long after)

 

[bluescapegoat]

It looks as though the frame right before the rear wheels was rotted, but it appears to be cut out and reinforced. That was actually one of the first things i noticed! Are there any other problem areas of the frame that i should check? I havent been under it much as its snowy and crappy here in Ohio.

That's the biggest problem area, the frame at the lower control arm mounts in the rear. I'm a MN transplant from OH, it's the battle we fight.