35” tires without a body lift

That is true, I also think it looks fantastic compared to what I see at our local off-road park.
Well, we pushed it off a really tall cliff shortly after setting it on fire once we comfirmed it performed as well as it looked.

We learned that its not our happiness, good thoughts, and feelings that will get us through the trails and up over the rocks.
 
Well we pushed it off a cliff shortly after setting it on fire once seeing it complete.

We learned that its not our happiness and good thoughts and feelings that will get us through the trails and up over the rocks.

So the Jeep is not a millennial?!?🤭🤭🤭
 
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Well, we pushed it off a really tall cliff shortly after setting it on fire once we comfirmed it performed as well as it looked.

We learned that its not our happiness, good thoughts, and feelings that will get us through the trails and up over the rocks.
If that rig couldn’t do it I’d blame the driver
 
Psst, there are a few threads on here with some of these guys who have put on many different flat fenders and did what he’s telling you to do, without a high line cut he is right.

I was with you on visual but he’s not wrong. But if you like what you like and hit fireroads and don’t fully flex, should be good.
Ok, for the sake of non arguing. I will say, that a 35” tire stuffed into a stock fender at full flex looks to be rubbing all kinds of shit up in there. But a flatflender’d set up seems to have more room around the tire with less “fender” to come in contact with. Savvy !! I never questioned that i wouldnt hit inside the inner fender. Mr Chestbeater felt compelled to throw his $.02 in

For my application, that one inch of BL isnt going to do much in the way of the tire not coming in contact with the inner fender. I would still have to adjust the stops to limit articulation while being disconnected, but i most likely wont disconnect (i dont have SBD anyways ((yet)) As said prior, there is a LOT more work involved to “properly” run 35s for off road use. I get it. ive read a lot of threads stating those facts. I just wanted to know if i HAD to run a BL to put 35s on my rig

They really need to figure out a sarcasm font !!
 
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Ok, for the sake of non arguing. I will say, that a 35” tire stuffed into a stock fender at full flex looks to be rubbing all kinds of shit up in there. But a flatflender’d set up seems to have more room around the tire with less “fender” to come in contact with. Savvy !! I never questioned that i wouldnt hit inside the inner fender. Mr Chestbeater felt compelled to throw his $.02 in

For my application, that one inch of BL isnt going to do much in the way of the tire not coming in contact with the inner fender. I would still have to adjust the stops to limit articulation while being disconnected, but i most likely wont disconnect (i dont have SBD anyways ((yet)) As said prior, there is a LOT more work involved to “properly” run 35s for off road use. I get it. ive read a lot of threads stating those facts. I just wanted to know if i HAD to run a BL to put 35s on my rig

They really need to figure out a sarcasm font !!

I get it man. Just saying, the guy that is putting down harsh posts has a been there, done that attitude because he did it.

but! You are right, keep the SB attached and mild stuff and you can do it. Nobody wants to see you tear things up and turn the tires while stuff changes things drastically. Somethings look great on a RTI ramp....them wheel it. Oops.
 
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Ok, for the sake of non arguing. I will say, that a 35” tire stuffed into a stock fender at full flex looks to be rubbing all kinds of shit up in there. But a flatflender’d set up seems to have more room around the tire with less “fender” to come in contact with. Savvy !! I never questioned that i wouldnt hit inside the inner fender. Mr Chestbeater felt compelled to throw his $.02 in

For my application, that one inch of BL isnt going to do much in the way of the tire not coming in contact with the inner fender. I would still have to adjust the stops to limit articulation while being disconnected, but i most likely wont disconnect (i dont have SBD anyways ((yet)) As said prior, there is a LOT more work involved to “properly” run 35s for off road use. I get it. ive read a lot of threads stating those facts. I just wanted to know if i HAD to run a BL to put 35s on my rig

They really need to figure out a sarcasm font !!

The old men shouting at clouds are correct. However, you know how you use the vehicle and whats the worse that could happen? You need to install a body lift.

But whilst you are on the newish 33's, do the ratios, SYE and arms. Then you have most of the issues sorted before you make the jump. Whilst the flat fenders might not give you more clearance, they also won't (or shouldn't) fold up like the OEM guards when a tire comes into contact with them so there are some upsides over standard.
 
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The pics dont lie dude and i aint the one arguing ;)

Ok. I'm the one who doesn't know what they are taking about. I'll listen to you from now on.

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As I said from the very beginning, a small body lift with make the setup and performance better. And your fenders do nothing to improve clearance over stock. This is not opinion.

Set the bump stops to where they need to be and the Jeep will function.

Now stop arguing and instead take the time to understand this stuff.
 
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Ok. I'm the one who doesn't know what they are taking about. I'll listen to you from now on.

View attachment 149268

View attachment 149270

As I said from the very beginning, a small body lift with make the setup and performance better. And your fenders do nothing to improve clearance over stock. This is not opinion.

Set the bump stops to where they need to be and the Jeep will function.

Now stop arguing and instead take the time to understand this stuff.
Dude !! Let it go !!

Go back a few post and READ. Even the pics you show prove my point. Which is, the flatfenders have less crap for the tire to come in contact with vs a stock fender w/flare. You are so quick to only point out that the tire will hit the inner portion of the fender, which i dont deny. Im saying the donut fits the hole better with flatfenders. When i see pics of tires stuffed into stock fenders i cringe, just waiting for a lug to catch the flare and start ripping shit off.
 
Ok, for the sake of non arguing. I will say, that a 35” tire stuffed into a stock fender at full flex looks to be rubbing all kinds of shit up in there. But a flatflender’d set up seems to have more room around the tire with less “fender” to come in contact with.

Looks and reality are different.

...flatfenders have less crap for the tire to come in contact with vs a stock fender w/flare. You are so quick to only point out that the tire will hit the inner portion of the fender, which i dont deny. Im saying the donut fits the hole better with flatfenders. When i see pics of tires stuffed into stock fenders i cringe, just waiting for a lug to catch the flare and start ripping shit off.

His photos arent showing everything. Go thru and read a few more of his posts and photos and you'll see what contact he is talking about. Stock flares are meant to flex out of the way until the tire hits the body. Flat flares are still considered body and are in the same spot as the OE fenders, they just dont have a flexible flare.
 
I think we can all agree that 35’s with 4” of lift will rub the inner fenders as well as the tubes and undersides of flat fenders that aren’t true Highlines.
Leaving the OEM sway bar connected will help limit up travel during articulation.
You can add to the bumps to limit the contact at the top of tire that could potentially damage them during full up travel.
Without a doubt OEM fenders and flares would get trashed with this setup, either way the inner fender will receive some contact when stuffed and in a full turn.
Depending on rim backspacing, wheel spacers, and tire width you will rub the frame and potentially the sway bar.
With an aired down tire, damage at the inner fender behind the tire is lessened, but the fender support bolt heads can chew on a tire at full lock, these can be switched to a low head fastener that is less likely to damage a tire, like a button head or even a rivet.
If you have upper and lower adjustable CA’s you can move your axle forward a little while still avoiding contact with steering and suspension components to reduce contact at the back of tire.
 
Looks and reality are different.



His photos arent showing everything. Go thru and read a few more of his posts and photos and you'll see what contact he is talking about. Stock flares are meant to flex out of the way until the tire hits the body. Flat flares are still considered body and are in the same spot as the OE fenders, they just dont have a flexible flare.

We both know that at the end of the day the fenders are irrelevant if the rest of the suspension is out of balance. We also both know this guy will never take the time to cycle the axles and set his suspension up to be as good as it can be. He asked the question, but is ignoring what is being said.
 
I don't think he wants 10/10 performance and that's OK.

I dont plan on doing any extreme wheeling with the Jeep, main purpose is to explore a few remote trails with my wife and dogs. So not really needing huge amounts of articulation. I mainly want the option of 35s for a little extra clearance. I’ll run the 33s til they i need a new set. I do prefer the stance and look of TJs with 35s.
 
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