Daily Driver, Go Where I Want To Build

Wasn't there a debate about 1350's actually having more travel a few months back? I've heard that 1310's have more travel than 1350's many times, but I've heard a few times that 1350's actually have more angle due to the additional distance between the joints in the CV itself. This allows the CV to go to a greater angle and not bind.

Not sure which is right, but I've heard both. Never really looked into it though.
 
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Yes, I don't think 1350 joints have anything to do with limiting travel. I think I misunderstood Blaine, as my kids were screaming in the background (literally) over some stupid crap.

The travel will have to be limited on mine as well, as the driveshaft is so short that I expect it is going to bottom out before the shocks (unless I'm wrong)?
1350 u joints are bigger and decrease operating angle
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/1310-vs-1330-vs-1350-u-joints.25589/
 
1350 u joints are bigger and decrease operating angle

Well I knew they were bigger, I just didn't realize that had anything to do with the operating angle.

This is one of those moments where being able to see an image side-by-side of a 1310 and 1350 u-joint driveshaft would help me visualize it.
 
Well I knew they were bigger, I just didn't realize that had anything to do with the operating angle.

This is one of those moments where being able to see an image side-by-side of a 1310 and 1350 u-joint driveshaft would help me visualize it.
Check the link I just put in the last post
 
Lol yep! Are you sure he wasn’t talking about axle shaft u joints?

That's why I should just keep my mouth shut at this point. I'm sure I misheard, and I'm only making it worse by continuing to speculate and run my mouth :LOL:

Like I said, obnoxious, screaming kids makes it hard to hear.
 
Yes, I don't think 1350 joints have anything to do with limiting travel. I think I misunderstood Blaine, as my kids were screaming in the background (literally) over some stupid crap.

The travel will have to be limited on mine as well, as the driveshaft is so short that I expect it is going to bottom out before the shocks (unless I'm wrong)?

Okay. I’d like to know as well. I’ve spent a lot of time cycling my axles during this midarm install.

With the Rancho shocks I’m near bind, still a little ways from it at full droop. My rear shaft is a TW 1310. It’d be nice to not have to run a strap but it seems like it’s in the future.
 
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Okay. I’d like to know as well. I’ve spent a lot of time cycling my axles during this midarm install.

With the Rancho shocks I’m near bind, still a little ways from it at full droop. My rear shaft is a TW 1310. It’d be nice to not have to run a strap but it seems like it’s in the future.

We'll know for sure once Blaine chimes in (y)
 
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Okay. I’d like to know as well. I’ve spent a lot of time cycling my axles during this midarm install.

With the Rancho shocks I’m near bind, still a little ways from it at full droop. My rear shaft is a TW 1310. It’d be nice to not have to run a strap but it seems like it’s in the future.
How long is your driveshaft? And which rancho?
 
A TJ stretched to LJ WB is nick named a TJ6 after the CJ6 model.

I would like to do one. A TJ with more than 2 people is no fun. Even an LJ back seat is tight for me at 6'2". Adding 6" to the foot well and moving the backseat 6" from stock and the back seat is very comfy, even with the front seat all the way back. They do get long, but as a second jeep it allow family outing more that 10-15 minutes. And grocery runs.
 
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My rear DS has 1310's in the double cardan and a 1330 at the pinon.
 
What's part number on those currie bumps. How do you dial the height in? with washers?

Search bump stop on Savvy or 4LowParts. The front has spacers. I'm not using any. The rear is only one size, but could be adjusted using the leftovers from the front. However, as is they seem to be the right size for a 12" shock split in half.