The Official SYE (Slip Yoke Eliminator) Thread

Jwind said:
Brackets just came off the rear drive shaft..... new brackets/caps have already been ordered.
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I think I know what you're referring to here but just to clarify, what are the "brackets/caps" that you ordered?

If the U-joint came apart you should replace the whole U-joint not just caps and if by brackets you are referring to the u-joint straps then yes you should probably have new ones if they allowed the u-joint to come apart.
 
Just wanted to added a note to this thread about removing the harmonic balancer on the later TJs. I struggled with mine trying the 3 bolt method, snapped one, stripped threads out of another. I retapped the threads and used stronger bolts, but as you can see below the bolt just tore into the housing rather than press the balancer out.
oNDX313TRx+FYA22cEP+Fw.jpg

From behind:
LbntuvGVRTGA4j3fLXIo1Q.jpg


I tried a gear puller, wouldn't budge. Then I went to town with a hammer, but because of the rubber ring it just bounces.

The trick was to use an air hammer with a pointed tip down on the inner ring of the balancer. It practically fell off with a few trigger pulls. All that wasted time!

Moving on with the SYE install....
 
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Hello,

Sorry if this has been answered before but i was just wondering do you need to install a SYE to install a DC driveshaft? Or can you just upgrade your driveshaft without one, like getting a longer or adjustable one?
 
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Mazepam said:
Hello,

Sorry if this has been answered before but i was just wondering do you need to install a SYE to install a DC driveshaft? Or can you just upgrade your driveshaft without one, like getting a longer or adjustable one?
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Don’t know if you ever got an answer to that, but I know a guy that used his existing drive shaft but that defeats the purpose of adjusting that pinion angle and not getting bad vibrations and ripping something apart. The cv drive shaft handles higher angles.
 
Eddie Greenlee said:
Don’t know if you ever got an answer to that, but I know a guy that used his existing drive shaft but that defeats the purpose of adjusting that pinion angle and not getting bad vibrations and ripping something apart. The cv drive shaft handles higher angles.
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Oh ok, because i know the purpose of the slip yoke eliminator from what i understand is to remove the movement of the driveshaft in the transfer case, but when you lift the vehicle your changing the angle too much because the driveshaft is essential too short.

So in my mind i would just replace my existing driveshaft with a longer one and adjust the pinion accordingly so the angels on the transfer case and diff are within 3 degrees. Instead of getting a sye AND changing the driveshaft
 
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Mazepam said:
Oh ok, because i know the purpose of the slip yoke eliminator from what i understand is to remove the movement of the driveshaft in the transfer case, but when you lift the vehicle your changing the angle too much because the driveshaft is essential too short.

So in my mind i would just replace my existing driveshaft with a longer one and adjust the pinion accordingly so the angels on the transfer case and diff are within 3 degrees. Instead of getting a sye AND changing the driveshaft
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You have to have both an SYE and DC because the proper geometry must be maintained for the two different setups

DE31D0CF-2186-4E25-BACB-02CA144E4CD4.jpeg
 
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Have an lj with 4" lift, adjustable control arms. Considering SYE. Also looking at tummy tuck in the future. Do I go with regular SYE or Super Short? Thanks
 
Renegade360 said:
Have an lj with 4" lift, adjustable control arms. Considering SYE. Also looking at tummy tuck in the future. Do I go with regular SYE or Super Short? Thanks
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It might not matter much with the longer LJ, but you’ll get a much longer rear driveshaft If you go with a SS, and I can’t see where that’s a bad thing. JB conversions makes the best SS, hands down.
 
JMT said:
It might not matter much with the longer LJ, but you’ll get a much longer rear driveshaft If you go with a SS, and I can’t see where that’s a bad thing. JB conversions makes the best SS, hands down.
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Yep JB is where I'm headed, just trying to figure out which one and if the cost is worth it to need to reprogram the speedo for tires.
 
Chris said:
Thanks for the update. Hopefully someone will stumble upon this in the future and it will be helpful to them. That was the goal of this thread after all!
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That someone is ME! I just ordered new wheels, tires, and the quadratec 2.5 inch lift kit with fox shocks! I ordered adjustable rear control arms, adjustable track bars front and rear and now looking for a solid SYE kit, this post was super helpful
 
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GVMotoring said:
That someone is ME! I just ordered new wheels, tires, and the quadratec 2.5 inch lift kit with fox shocks! I ordered adjustable rear control arms, adjustable track bars front and rear and now looking for a solid SYE kit, this post was super helpful
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Happy to hear that 👍
 
So I spoke with a few people and getting a few different answers. I'm in the process of this now and totally forgot about the rear track bar. I currently have a stock bar with relocation bracket. I understand now an adjustable is a must. When I speak with some reps, they say the adjustable bar needs to go in the stock location. Here, it appears you need to buy the angled bracket. Are some adjustable track bars bent differently such that the angled bracket isn't required?
 
Midtenn said:
So I spoke with a few people and getting a few different answers. I'm in the process of this now and totally forgot about the rear track bar. I currently have a stock bar with relocation bracket. I understand now an adjustable is a must. When I speak with some reps, they say the adjustable bar needs to go in the stock location. Here, it appears you need to buy the angled bracket. Are some adjustable track bars bent differently such that the angled bracket isn't required?
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With an SYE you will need to rotate your pinion up to be in line with the transfer case. You will need the angled bracket to bring the track bar back forward.
 
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Midtenn said:
So I spoke with a few people and getting a few different answers. I'm in the process of this now and totally forgot about the rear track bar. I currently have a stock bar with relocation bracket. I understand now an adjustable is a must. When I speak with some reps, they say the adjustable bar needs to go in the stock location. Here, it appears you need to buy the angled bracket. Are some adjustable track bars bent differently such that the angled bracket isn't required?
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I used the JKS adjustable track bar and the angled bracket and it works fine. I don't think the track bars are angled differently, but didn't compare them closely.
 
Midtenn said:
So I spoke with a few people and getting a few different answers. I'm in the process of this now and totally forgot about the rear track bar. I currently have a stock bar with relocation bracket. I understand now an adjustable is a must. When I speak with some reps, they say the adjustable bar needs to go in the stock location. Here, it appears you need to buy the angled bracket. Are some adjustable track bars bent differently such that the angled bracket isn't required?
Click to expand...
Also, don't forget about relocating your rear shock mounts. I forgot that one and couldn't adjust the pinion angle fully and without adding relocation brackets.
 
Bsulzberger said:
I used the JKS adjustable track bar and the angled bracket and it works fine. I don't think the track bars are angled differently, but didn't compare them closely.
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Looks like the bracket is a must. I found one off Facebook for $20 so just a short delay I suppose
 
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