The Official SYE (Slip Yoke Eliminator) Thread

[Chris]

No it’s just a metal ring hat seems like it was pressed on, previous owner said it fell off so a shop just took it off the shaft for him and he held on to it. Because I’ve gotten different responses on if they can fix it or not I was wondering if it would b easier to do the sye because it gets rid of that part. Thank u all so much for the help also.

I wish I knew the answer to this. It might actually be worth starting a new thread, as you'll gain more attention from the rest of the forum that way. That's what I would suggest to be honest! Someone on here must know, I'm sure of it.

Still, if you plan on going with a lift and bigger tires eventually, it's probably just a no brainer to forget it and go with a SYE.

 

[jazngab]

Do I need to wait for the SYE to be installed before I can measure yoke to yoke for the new driveshaft? Or is there a way to premeasure the stock setup and order the correct length drive shaft in advance? I’m trying to avoid having to wait a week or more for a new Tom woods drive shaft to arrive.

 

[Vasq]

Do I need to wait for the SYE to be installed before I can measure yoke to yoke for the new driveshaft? Or is there a way to premeasure the stock setup and order the correct length drive shaft in advance? I’m trying to avoid having to wait a week or more for a new Tom woods drive shaft to arrive.

I decided to wait. but I was doing super short SYE + TT + new lift all at once, so I didn't want to take the chance at guessing. I've heard that if you're just doing a SYE that Tom Wood can ask some questions and pretty much be spot on without you needing it installed.

 

[Angel97]

1997 tj just bought, only looks like it has a after market rear drive shaft. Still stock angel n boot. It has a 4in lift to it. Can someone help. Having vibration like crazy.

 

[Vasq]

1997 tj just bought, only looks like it has a after market rear drive shaft. Still stock angel n boot. It has a 4in lift to it. Can someone help. Having vibration like crazy.

View attachment 136485

The fastest/cheapest way to start eliminating vibes would be a transfer case drop, which I can't tell if you have already. Upper adjustable control arms would be my next move if i were you. without a SYE you'll want to keep the axle and transfer case yokes parallel.

This thread has a lot of good info and is definitely worth a read through

 

[Jramos013]

Just orders the SYE and Ds from Tom Woods. Wich RTV is best for the case? Also, any seals or something that should be change while in in there?

im planning to do this my self and then drive to the shop to get all the control arms installed and the jeep aligned. is it better to leave the rear ds disconnected and drive to the shop with the front ds only? Its about 45-55min drive between mountains. Its a 3" lift, already have a 1"mml

 

[Spencer C]

What if I have an LJ?
Lucky you! The LJ in most cases is fun up to about 4-4.5" of lift without a SYE or double cardan (CV) driveshaft! That's one of the benefits you get from the LJ with it's longer wheel base... much less extreme driveline angles.

New member here!
I have a 2004 LJ. 3.5” suspension lift and a 2 inch spring puck, 31 inch tires. That being said, I’m not having driveline issues as of right now. I want to upgrade to 35s in the future. Next mod is gonna probably be the SYE & driveshafts. Looking at both Adams and Tom Woods; I know both are reputable companies. I did see on Adams’ website that one driveshaft runs up to a 35 inch tire and one runs up to a 37. Does Tom Woods have specifications like that? Thanks.

P.S. only asking about tire size specs because I may or may not upgrade to 37s so I don’t want to have to buy a driveshaft twice. Thinking I’m leaning more toward Tom Woods

 

[Chris]

New member here!
I have a 2004 LJ. 3.5” suspension lift and a 2 inch spring puck, 31 inch tires. That being said, I’m not having driveline issues as of right now. I want to upgrade to 35s in the future. Next mod is gonna probably be the SYE & driveshafts. Looking at both Adams and Tom Woods; I know both are reputable companies. I did see on Adams’ website that one driveshaft runs up to a 35 inch tire and one runs up to a 37. Does Tom Woods have specifications like that? Thanks.

P.S. only asking about tire size specs because I may or may not upgrade to 37s so I don’t want to have to buy a driveshaft twice. Thinking I’m leaning more toward Tom Woods

If you call Tom Wood they will tell you exactly what you need. They are incredibly helpful and incredibly knowledgeable, just like Adams'. You can't go wrong with either.

What it comes down to is the length of the driveshaft. I don't know what the exact lengths will be off the top of my head, but I guarantee you those guys do

Like I said, call Tom Wood up. You'll be surprised how friendly and knowledgeable they are.

 

[JKLNHYD]

I just installed an Advance Adapters standard SYE this weekend and I want to pass along my lessons learned:

1) If you have the harmonic balancer on your transfer case still, buy HARDENED M6x1.00 X 25 bolts to work it off the output shaft. Do NOT use non hardened bolts as they will break and leave you like picture #1, without many options. I spent the better part of two hours trying to drill them out to use an easy out bit and was unsuccessful. Ended up massaging it off with a BFH.
2) Invest in a heavy duty set of quality snap ring pliers. The set I had were cheap chinese made ones with the replaceable tips. They did not have enough strength to open the large rings enough to get the rings off the main shaft and barely enough to get the large on back on the new shaft. I fought with the ones I had before going to Auto Zone for another, beefier set that turned out to be just as worthless. See picture #2 and avoid these at all costs.
3) After letting the RTV cure for a couple hours after reassembly, I thought I would save some hassle and fill it with ATF before putting it on the jack to reinstall. My mistake was turning it up on the large end to pour it straight in. I lost a fair amount of Royal Purple before noticing it was running out the bottom. I should have just kept it laying flat and all would have been fine.
4) Plan to torque the yoke nuts once the transfer case is back in the jeep. I knew I was going to have to do it that way but some folks may just give their impact two or three ugga duggs and call it good.

Hope this helps someone out a bit.

 

[Longhorn84]

I just installed an Advance Adapters standard SYE this weekend and I want to pass along my lessons learned:

1) If you have the harmonic balancer on your transfer case still, buy HARDENED M6x1.00 X 25 bolts to work it off the output shaft. Do NOT use non hardened bolts as they will break and leave you like picture #1, without many options. I spent the better part of two hours trying to drill them out to use an easy out bit and was unsuccessful. Ended up massaging it off with a BFH.
2) Invest in a heavy duty set of quality snap ring pliers. The set I had were cheap chinese made ones with the replaceable tips. They did not have enough strength to open the large rings enough to get the rings off the main shaft and barely enough to get the large on back on the new shaft. I fought with the ones I had before going to Auto Zone for another, beefier set that turned out to be just as worthless. See picture #2 and avoid these at all costs.
3) After letting the RTV cure for a couple hours after reassembly, I thought I would save some hassle and fill it with ATF before putting it on the jack to reinstall. My mistake was turning it up on the large end to pour it straight in. I lost a fair amount of Royal Purple before noticing it was running out the bottom. I should have just kept it laying flat and all would have been fine.
4) Plan to torque the yoke nuts once the transfer case is back in the jeep. I knew I was going to have to do it that way but some folks may just give their impact two or three ugga duggs and call it good.

Hope this helps someone out a bit.

View attachment 139482 View attachment 139483

Two things. one is I just did this a few nights ago and I tried to torque while it was on the bench and went the ugga dugga route but I also put on red locktite, I'm wondering if I would need to heat up and remove the nuts to make sure I properly torque, not sure if red will come off with my impact wrench.

Also, the teraflex ultra sye comes with bolts so I assume I need to buy nuts for the other side of the yoke since usually the kit comes with straps and nuts but the teraflex yokes aren't threaded. Anyone tackle this problem?

 

[JKLNHYD]

Two things. one is I just did this a few nights ago and I tried to torque while it was on the bench and went the ugga dugga route but I also put on red locktite, I'm wondering if I would need to heat up and remove the nuts to make sure I properly torque, not sure if red will come off with my impact wrench.

Also, the teraflex ultra sye comes with bolts so I assume I need to buy nuts for the other side of the yoke since usually the kit comes with straps and nuts but the teraflex yokes aren't threaded. Anyone tackle this problem?

First, to properly torque your yoke nuts, you'll need to reinstall your t-case and put the vehicle in 4LO with your e-brake on and get your torque wrench on it. Some folks that do these all the time may have a bracket on their workbench but you probably don't. If it were me, I would reinstall, remove the yoke nuts, reapply the loctite, and properly torque down.

If I remember correctly, your driveshaft yoke (at the t-case end) should have the threaded side. The bolts go in facing the driveshaft. The straps and nuts should be at the axle end.

 

[Longhorn84]

First, to properly torque your yoke nuts, you'll need to reinstall your t-case and put the vehicle in 4LO with your e-brake on and get your torque wrench on it. Some folks that do these all the time may have a bracket on their workbench but you probably don't. If it were me, I would reinstall, remove the yoke nuts, reapply the loctite, and properly torque down.

If I remember correctly, your driveshaft yoke (at the t-case end) should have the threaded side. The bolts go in facing the driveshaft. The straps and nuts should be at the axle end.

You are correct, I just confirmed with Tom Woods (driveshafts are on order) that both the driveshafts at the tcase will thread into the yoke. And I agree with you on proper torque, I was frustrated the other day, I got the front torqued by holding the other end down with a vice on a table but couldn't get the rear so I just impacted it and called it a night. I should probably heat the yokes, melt the locktite, and redo it properly on the jeep like you suggested.

 

[JKLNHYD]

You are correct, I just confirmed with Tom Woods (driveshafts are on order) that both the driveshafts at the tcase will thread into the yoke. And I agree with you on proper torque, I was frustrated the other day, I got the front torqued by holding the other end down with a vice on a table but couldn't get the rear so I just impacted it and called it a night. I should probably heat the yokes, melt the locktite, and redo it properly on the jeep like you suggested.

You may not need to heat it. Install it as soon as you can and get your impact on it to try to take it off. I'm betting it comes off. I'd at least try that before putting heat to it. You have o-rings and rubber bits that you have to be cautious of.

 

[Apparition]

First, to properly torque your yoke nuts, you'll need to reinstall your t-case and put the vehicle in 4LO with your e-brake on and get your torque wrench on it. Some folks that do these all the time may have a bracket on their workbench but you probably don't. If it were me, I would reinstall, remove the yoke nuts, reapply the loctite, and properly torque down.

If I remember correctly, your driveshaft yoke (at the t-case end) should have the threaded side. The bolts go in facing the driveshaft. The straps and nuts should be at the axle end.

This bracket is handy

https://bleepinjeep.com/product/yoke-wrench-tool/

 

[Longhorn84]

Cool tool, not sure it's worth $40 for me but I really like the concept. And I agree not to use heat yet, I'll try it with an impact first and see. It's on the jeep now and belly pan is on for the 50th time, not looking forward to lowering it and redoing this process but it is what it is.

In 4 low the other yoke won't turn or is it the fact that the trans is engaged that it won't turn the other yoke when I torque?

 

[Apparition]

Cool tool, not sure it's worth $40 for me but I really like the concept. And I agree not to use heat yet, I'll try it with an impact first and see. It's on the jeep now and belly pan is on for the 50th time, not looking forward to lowering it and redoing this process but it is what it is.

In 4 low the other yoke won't turn or is it the fact that the trans is engaged that it won't turn the other yoke when I torque?

It becomes really really handy when crushing a pinion sleeve.

 

[Longhorn84]

I appreciate the info, I watched bleepin jeep's youtube video on it and after thinking about it, I think it's a great way to support a great group who has taught me so much for free on youtube, ordering the tool now!

 

[D M]

I got a question, Once you have a SYE with a rear CV driveshaft are you basically stuck to your suspension lift height? I have a 3" lift right now and plan to go with a 4" in the future, but also need to do a SYE. Could I do the SYE now and rear cv driveshaft and then just throw in larger springs when im ready or should I just wait. I also plan on doing a tummy tuck when I do the SYE so ill be getting JJ control arms and the ucf extra high clearance skid

 

[02GreenTJ]

I got a question, Once you have a SYE with a rear CV driveshaft are you basically stuck to your suspension lift height? I have a 3" lift right now and plan to go with a 4" in the future, but also need to do a SYE. Could I do the SYE now and rear cv driveshaft and then just throw in larger springs when im ready or should I just wait. I also plan on doing a tummy tuck when I do the SYE so ill be getting JJ control arms and the ucf extra high clearance skid

You should weight and measure, but there is a certain range that the driveshaft can handle.

 

[Longhorn84]

I got a question, Once you have a SYE with a rear CV driveshaft are you basically stuck to your suspension lift height? I have a 3" lift right now and plan to go with a 4" in the future, but also need to do a SYE. Could I do the SYE now and rear cv driveshaft and then just throw in larger springs when im ready or should I just wait. I also plan on doing a tummy tuck when I do the SYE so ill be getting JJ control arms and the ucf extra high clearance skid

SYE will allow different lifts, it’s not about the SYE, it’s about the pinion angle so you may have to adjust that in the future but the SYE is not an issue