They do. No hopping, no squatting and no tipsy boat feeling in the corners and off camber obstacles like long and some mid arms give you. Geometry correction moves the short arm bind point from a 23" shock length in stock mounts, which is why the track bar/upper control arm mounts always get torn off, and allows nearly 27" extended shock length at the bind point, same as a rubicon express and metal cloak long arm, but with nearly zero rear steer in a 12" travel range. I highly recommend geometry correction on the rear with short arms and a mid arm front with geometry like savvy's.
IMO, Short arms straight up suck on the front with lifts over 3" jabbing everything including my kidneys instead of easily rolling over small obstacles. Short arms and the popular front track bars are barely capable of 24.5" extended shock length, that's where the binding is at on the front as well as the stock driveshaft jabbing the transfercase because of the short arm radius.
Normal 3-4.5" rear springs don't really benefit from outboards when the rig is on uncut fenders and 35" tires. The collapsed shock length requires over 3" bumpstop extension and the extended length unseats the springs. The only thing the outboards get you with springs shorter than 16.5" freelength is uptravel. The stability gain of an outboard is marginal compared to geometry correction alone.
As far as I'm concerned, if bolt on short arms are good enough, you may as well use a rough country or rusty's long arm "upgrade" and save your back and sternum of the back seat passengers. It's cheaper than a set of adjustable short arms. At 4" of lift, they are more stable and handle better than a short arm. The problem is, the rear bind points remain the same as the short arm and will still tear off the axle mount due to the lack of separation. The front radius arm works without badly binding itself when the shock length stays less than 25.5" on the front with a 2" bumpstop, but still has the same hopping/lack of traction control as short arms.
