Refinishing Fender Flares

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Mariposa Mike

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A new to me Wrangler in Patriot Blue has fiberglas fender flares that were a dark gray or maybe dull black when new. They are a light gray now and any time wax or other about anything else touches them it leaves a dark streak. I like the color they are now and was thinking about applying a dull paint to make them less of a problem. Has anyone tried that? I have some Krylon Dull Aluminum used on engine parts that is a semi gloss to dull finish. Just not sure how the fiberglas would take to paint without being a gelcoat process. Might just peel off.
 
If anyone else is interested I used some SEM Trim Black to repaint the bumpers which had surface rust and the finish looks great. Put some POR-15 down first to stop the rust. One of the rear bumper ends had been snagged and damaged too badly to repair so I ordered a new one from Dorman. Then used some Rustoleum Light Machine Gray spray paint to coat the old one. The color looks nice on the part and might be the answer to making the plastic more resistant to smudges from the chalking/deterioration of the parts. The finish is maybe a semi gloss so I would rather have it dull but I suspect over time the paint will dull. Going to wait a few days and see what happens. I know the Jeeps don't have to be pretty but I'm trying to make it easier to wash and wax when needed.
 
If anyone else is interested I used some SEM Trim Black to repaint the bumpers which had surface rust and the finish looks great. Put some POR-15 down first to stop the rust. One of the rear bumper ends had been snagged and damaged too badly to repair so I ordered a new one from Dorman. Then used some Rustoleum Light Machine Gray spray paint to coat the old one. The color looks nice on the part and might be the answer to making the plastic more resistant to smudges from the chalking/deterioration of the parts. The finish is maybe a semi gloss so I would rather have it dull but I suspect over time the paint will dull. Going to wait a few days and see what happens. I know the Jeeps don't have to be pretty but I'm trying to make it easier to wash and wax when needed.
"I know the Jeeps don't have to be pretty"
WTF you say, why not? lol
 
The OE factory flares can be pretty well restored, not 100% but 90%+, to a good dark near-factory finish with nothing more than a heat gun slowly (but not too slow) panned over the fender.

Fender Flare by Heat Gun.webp
 
Tray... I just met a fellow at breakfast who has a late 90's white Rubicon. Went out to look at it and the fender flares are painted body color...gloss...and looks really nice. Don't know how they got so smooth but maybe primer and sanding, repeat again and again. So I gotta say it was purty.
 
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Jerry...I will try that with the piece I am replacing. I do have a heat gun so it would be easy to see what that does and how much is too much heat. Had it sitting in the sun yesterday and in this heat wave that might have been enough. Hard to handle it when first picked up. And you have a matching gas cap in red. Unless you painted the cap did it come that way with the Jeep? Imagine not since I don't believe the manufacturer supplies locking caps unless ordered.
 
Hi @Mariposa Mike ,

If you use the "Google Search" feature, under the search icon at the top, you'll find that there are several threads on this forum in which members have lost friendships over the best way to restore your fender flares.

I took the approach of painting. Some take the approach of applying product like "back to black". Others have taken Jerry's approach, etc.
 
Tray... I just met a fellow at breakfast who has a late 90's white Rubicon. Went out to look at it and the fender flares are painted body color...gloss...and looks really nice. Don't know how they got so smooth but maybe primer and sanding, repeat again and again. So I gotta say it was purty.
No such thing as a late 90s Rubicon. Sahara maybe.......

I've used a heat gun with mixed results. Went greyish in about a month. Back to black lasts a few weeks. Penetrol didn't work very well either and was a PITA actually. Trim and bumper paint worked pretty well. Flexible and made different than ordinary spray paint.
 
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Most paint bonds to fiberglass with a good scuff and solvent wipe.
 
Jerry...I will try that with the piece I am replacing. I do have a heat gun so it would be easy to see what that does and how much is too much heat. Had it sitting in the sun yesterday and in this heat wave that might have been enough. Hard to handle it when first picked up. And you have a matching gas cap in red. Unless you painted the cap did it come that way with the Jeep? Imagine not since I don't believe the manufacturer supplies locking caps unless ordered.
It seems to me that I use the lower temperature setting on my heat gun, some high heats can punch a hole right through plastic. I just keep it moving, it's very intuitive since once you get the heat going the black will start showing. Almost like the heat gun was spraying black paint. It's easier to get right than it may seem until you try it.

That Jeep in the photo reminds me of my previous red Jeep but that one in the photo is not mine.
 
ejay...I think you are correct. It was likely a Sahara. I'm still ;earning about the different models.
 
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Well the Lt Machine Gray bumper ends did not look right next to the black bumpers so they are going back to black. The side trim, minus the steps will likely be a gray I found in the Rustoleum aisle. Very close to the color they have faded to and pick up a little of the Patriot Blue hue...at least in the color range of my eyes. If I don't like that, they will go back to the SEM black and I'll call it done and move on. I've noticed from pictures on this forum that many owners remove the bumper ends. Not a bad look either. That SEM black will also touch up some of the scratches on the hardtop. This has been a great forum to learn about my Jeep. Will be joining as a supporting member.
 
SEM Bumper Coater
https://www.semproducts.com/product/bumper-coatertm-aerosols#resourcesNo adhesion promoter or primer is required and it stays flexible. Flexible coating on flexible plastic is very a good thing. Just like with all products follow the directions on the technical data sheet to the smallest detail and you can't go wrong. (If a company doesn't offer a technical sheet find a better product) Its especially important not to short the cleaning steps due to road grime and all the random and mostly useless crap that was used trying to protect or restore them. It all contaminates the surface.
https://www.semproducts.com/public/content/techsheets/TDS _bumper_coater_0419.pdf
 
I agree and really like the SEM product. But I can't determine their colors from the internet. Kinda like the looks on the can and description of the Lt. Titanium but really haveno idea how dark or light it is. At 18 to 23 bucks a can it can get expensive experimenting.
 
That might be a good fix. I kinda like the contrast of the faded black to gray that has happened over the years against the blue but may have to just go back to original.
 
Buy new OMIX, 140 dollars
 
I clicked on the thread and there is huge amount of input to sort thru. Are you suggesting there is an OMIX flare(s) available to merely change out and not bother painting?