The new tire is great, I just put a set on my Ram 2500. Had to wait a while for them.
Supply chain is stupid right now. Had to go to three different grocery stores for a head of lettuce.
What did you do to your other vehicle today?
- Thread starter Zorba
- Start date
The new tire is great, I just put a set on my Ram 2500. Had to wait a while for them.
Supply chain is stupid right now. Had to go to three different grocery stores for a head of lettuce.
I was fine with the supply chain thang till it affected me at the grocery store. Now I am madder than hell and won't take it anymore!
BTW, the KO2's on me Jeep have held up well with around 10k miles I put on them.
Tires I can plan for, to an extent,
Perishable food items, that's a little more challenging.
Yes. Subarus are very capable cars, but they are not Jeeps. I bought that 98 in winter of 2004 as a temporary second vehicle. It was the first of three Subarus we’ve owned, and my favorite. I’ve driven that car in some pretty crazy terrain. I‘ve never gotten stuck, but that’s because I know it’s not a Jeep! Some people elevate a Subaru’s capabilities to mythical levels…
oil pan for the transmission arrived this week and had a early start to work this morning so I slipped out after 8 hours rather than doing more overtime and did the hour drive south to my dads place to get to work.
had a curveball when I arrived though because the neighbor was attempting to figure out his snow plow electrical issue in the driveway when I arrived. hes not too knowledgeable on electrical but wants to understand. he had a wire diagram printout he asked for me to look over.. said the controller wasn't working and was intermittent at times but claimed the relay bundle was likely the issue. looked over the wire diagram and found all 5 relays he had torn apart were headlight related
. got the volt meter and measured the 6 pins on the controller harness and found no power. asked where the fuse was and he pulled the panel off the dash.. found whoever wired it for him tied the acc power tap to the cigarette outlet which is a 10A rated circuit with a 20A fuse tap and a blown 20A fuse with a slightly melted burnt looking obviously overloaded fuse panel. so now I have a future project to add a pal fuse circuit to his under the hood fuse panel
after all of that I managed to use the rest of the barely remaining daylight in about 7 degree and dropping weather laying on cardboard out in the driveway to get my new pan installed and torqued in place. id estimate it was about 3 degrees and numb fingertips when I was done. still got to fill it with ATF and get the battery installed. also dont have much hope for the battery long term. I had fully charged it and let it sit for a week and randomly measured the voltage, its gone from a day or two of 12.56 to 12.43v. suspect it will get me through about another year but I also dont want to deal with it when I dont want to deal with it if you know what I mean.
had a curveball when I arrived though because the neighbor was attempting to figure out his snow plow electrical issue in the driveway when I arrived. hes not too knowledgeable on electrical but wants to understand. he had a wire diagram printout he asked for me to look over.. said the controller wasn't working and was intermittent at times but claimed the relay bundle was likely the issue. looked over the wire diagram and found all 5 relays he had torn apart were headlight related
. got the volt meter and measured the 6 pins on the controller harness and found no power. asked where the fuse was and he pulled the panel off the dash.. found whoever wired it for him tied the acc power tap to the cigarette outlet which is a 10A rated circuit with a 20A fuse tap and a blown 20A fuse with a slightly melted burnt looking obviously overloaded fuse panel. so now I have a future project to add a pal fuse circuit to his under the hood fuse panelafter all of that I managed to use the rest of the barely remaining daylight in about 7 degree and dropping weather laying on cardboard out in the driveway to get my new pan installed and torqued in place. id estimate it was about 3 degrees and numb fingertips when I was done. still got to fill it with ATF and get the battery installed. also dont have much hope for the battery long term. I had fully charged it and let it sit for a week and randomly measured the voltage, its gone from a day or two of 12.56 to 12.43v. suspect it will get me through about another year but I also dont want to deal with it when I dont want to deal with it if you know what I mean.
drove downstate again, another hour to finish wrapping up the truck.
dumped 4 quarts into the transmission and started it up briefly before topping off and test driving to warm it up. started normally then began dropping idle, lightly raved it and let off the pedal and it stalled on its face. attempted restarting and it just cranks now. checked for spark and im getting no spark to the plugs. been about a year since ive done ignition tuneup.
if it aint one thing its another. im sure its just the cap and rotor but im so pissed off, im done messing with it until warm weather arrives in the spring. im still unsure if I fixed the transmission leak because I havent gotten the fluid level proper yet. ugh.
dumped 4 quarts into the transmission and started it up briefly before topping off and test driving to warm it up. started normally then began dropping idle, lightly raved it and let off the pedal and it stalled on its face. attempted restarting and it just cranks now. checked for spark and im getting no spark to the plugs. been about a year since ive done ignition tuneup.
if it aint one thing its another. im sure its just the cap and rotor but im so pissed off, im done messing with it until warm weather arrives in the spring. im still unsure if I fixed the transmission leak because I havent gotten the fluid level proper yet. ugh.
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I removed the hood liner in the R. A mouse has been chewing it up. Now I'm paranoid there is a mouse going to eat the wiring....Suggestions besides throwing a couple cats under the hood before driving??
Also, I was able to find firmware updates for the R infotainment system that seems to have fixed a random reboot problem while using the nav. And got a 'free' copy of the latest map files. Yay.
Also, I was able to find firmware updates for the R infotainment system that seems to have fixed a random reboot problem while using the nav. And got a 'free' copy of the latest map files. Yay.
Winks42
TJ Enthusiast
Finally got this old yota engine to run after 20 years of sitting in some swamp. It runs perfect other than timing and the TPS being a little off. flushing the coolant that’s in there, looks like they mixed coolants as there was orange gel in the hardliners I took off to clean.
attempted and finally finished repairs on the truck today. didnt have anything else to do this weekend.
checked again for spark and non was present as figured. pulled the distributor cap and found the contact point which touched the rotor was worn down to metal as the black dot of whatever material was completely gone & the aluminum nipples the spark jumps to were completely oxidized and built up with gunk. swapped them out with a new rotor and cap, this time I got brass rather than the aluminum delcos ive been getting about a year out of with way less than 12k miles.
cranked the truck again and again... not starting up. again, no spark.
checked for 12v at the coil and ignition module and both had 12v present.
figured the coil wouldn't spontaneously die so I pulled the ignition module to take it to oreilys for testing. they are fairly common in this truck to fail but are on average $100. test came back as failed and I was $100 poorer by the time I left.
installed the new module and the truck came to life.
topped off the transmission oil and rolled back and forth in the driveway a few times, topped it off and drove for about a half hour and my trans oil level was good.
now I can wait to see if the original issue of the transmission leak is resolved for good with this new transmission pan by letting it sit.
checked again for spark and non was present as figured. pulled the distributor cap and found the contact point which touched the rotor was worn down to metal as the black dot of whatever material was completely gone & the aluminum nipples the spark jumps to were completely oxidized and built up with gunk. swapped them out with a new rotor and cap, this time I got brass rather than the aluminum delcos ive been getting about a year out of with way less than 12k miles.
cranked the truck again and again... not starting up. again, no spark.
checked for 12v at the coil and ignition module and both had 12v present.
figured the coil wouldn't spontaneously die so I pulled the ignition module to take it to oreilys for testing. they are fairly common in this truck to fail but are on average $100. test came back as failed and I was $100 poorer by the time I left.
installed the new module and the truck came to life.
topped off the transmission oil and rolled back and forth in the driveway a few times, topped it off and drove for about a half hour and my trans oil level was good.
now I can wait to see if the original issue of the transmission leak is resolved for good with this new transmission pan by letting it sit.
They are both jeeps one is just a lesbians jeep
The plan for today, if I can motivate myself, is to back the Ural and ZT mower out of the garage and bring the Chevy in. For the second time in a year, the wiper linkage has gone bye-bye. Not a bad job, I just don't feel like doing it. Again.
Kind of miffs me that my 09 Silverado is getting it's third wiper linkage, while my 48 DeSoto and 05 LJ are running the originals.
Kind of miffs me that my 09 Silverado is getting it's third wiper linkage, while my 48 DeSoto and 05 LJ are running the originals.
Got lucky. Turned out that one of the wiper arm nuts came loose. First time I've seen that happen. I know if a wiper nut comes loose on one of my rail road machines it still takes a puller to get the wiper arm off. Apparently, you just need to look sideways for the wiper arm to pop off on a GM pickup.
Put 242 Loc-tite on the damn thing and tightened it back up. Did the same for the other one and called it a day.
got my truck back yesterday. no further leaks observed from the transmission pan after sitting for the past several days.
had my dad drive it a hour + upstate, I drove him back downstate then returned the hour + back upstate again. it was a long boring day for the both of us.
drove it to work this morning and thought it was odd the heat wasn't really keeping up in the cabin, froze on the way home again..... and my blend door actuator motor decided to die since I last drove it.
this thing is sure a nickel and dime bastard. cant afford a new truck and this 284k mile bastard is basically completely new with all the work ive been picking with the past few years.
found a used OE blend motor assembly on ebay for $20 vs $60 new OE and a few days wait at the local parts store, but I had to cancel my order because I had forgotten to update my current residence address. holding out for the seller to provide me a new link to purchase it again.
I messed with the little blue gear in the motor assembly so now the little computer is out of wack and spins the gear into the wrong position. was planning on cleaning and lubing but thats out of the question now. blue gear must be attached to some type of sensor like a rheostat or something. dont think thats the proper word but visually in my mind it makes sense.
had my dad drive it a hour + upstate, I drove him back downstate then returned the hour + back upstate again. it was a long boring day for the both of us.
drove it to work this morning and thought it was odd the heat wasn't really keeping up in the cabin, froze on the way home again..... and my blend door actuator motor decided to die since I last drove it
.this thing is sure a nickel and dime bastard. cant afford a new truck and this 284k mile bastard is basically completely new with all the work ive been picking with the past few years.
found a used OE blend motor assembly on ebay for $20 vs $60 new OE and a few days wait at the local parts store, but I had to cancel my order because I had forgotten to update my current residence address. holding out for the seller to provide me a new link to purchase it again.
I messed with the little blue gear in the motor assembly so now the little computer is out of wack and spins the gear into the wrong position. was planning on cleaning and lubing but thats out of the question now. blue gear must be attached to some type of sensor like a rheostat or something. dont think thats the proper word but visually in my mind it makes sense.
Quit being cheap and buy a new motor..got my truck back yesterday. no further leaks observed from the transmission pan after sitting for the past several days.
had my dad drive it a hour + upstate, I drove him back downstate then returned the hour + back upstate again. it was a long boring day for the both of us.
drove it to work this morning and thought it was odd the heat wasn't really keeping up in the cabin, froze on the way home again..... and my blend door actuator motor decided to die since I last drove it
this thing is sure a nickel and dime bastard. cant afford a new truck and this 284k mile bastard is basically completely new with all the work ive been picking with the past few years.
found a used OE blend motor assembly on ebay for $20 vs $60 new OE and a few days wait at the local parts store, but I had to cancel my order because I had forgotten to update my current residence address. holding out for the seller to provide me a new link to purchase it again.
I messed with the little blue gear in the motor assembly so now the little computer is out of wack and spins the gear into the wrong position. was planning on cleaning and lubing but thats out of the question now. blue gear must be attached to some type of sensor like a rheostat or something. dont think thats the proper word but visually in my mind it makes sense.
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