05 Flame Red TJ Build
- Thread starter JMT
- Start date
OP
So, the center of the tailgate/tailgate armor is not in the center of the 4 factory bolt holes for attaching the armor. I laid a piece of wood there to mark the middle for reference. Is it going to look off to center the license plate on the tailgate? I assume it’s centered on other builds.
As you probably notice, someone messed up my tailgate armor before it was cured, so I’m trying to learn how to spot fix and blend. At the next wet sand I’ll blend the edges of the primer in with wet 1000 without any masking and try to feather the topcoat, then clear. We’ll see. I’m not optimistic, but hope to improve. All this will help paint some noticeable spots in the Patriot Blue Rubicon.
As you probably notice, someone messed up my tailgate armor before it was cured, so I’m trying to learn how to spot fix and blend. At the next wet sand I’ll blend the edges of the primer in with wet 1000 without any masking and try to feather the topcoat, then clear. We’ll see. I’m not optimistic, but hope to improve. All this will help paint some noticeable spots in the Patriot Blue Rubicon.
OP
From what I’m looking at with the tailgate armor fix, I need to adjust some things. For one, I wouldn’t mask things off, just try to feather as much as possible. Requires a lot of good hand control. I’ll know in a few hours how it turned out. 
I had intended to mount it today, but that stupid mess up messed everything up. 
I had intended to mount it today, but that stupid mess up messed everything up. 
I have the 16’ kit with 15” aluminum wheels, I use pound on weights on the inside and sticky weights on the outside.
OP
Found a Warn XD9000i today! When I’ve gone through everything this will replace my SuperWinch TS9500S. I’ll also move my TRE rope and thimble over to this beast.
OP
It looks like it’s just slightly closer to the passenger side. Is that accurate?
OP
Tearing into the winch, found things that need to be replaced and things that needed cleaning.
Most don’t notice the factory spare mount is offset to the passenger side.
Most would notice it centered when a larger spare tire interferes with opening the paddle latch.
Correct but like DrDmoney said I don’t notice at all and think it would look weirder if it was offset of the square of bolts around it.
I shifted my factory mount over, up, and cut the height down to fit tight against the snubbers for a 35” spare. The paddle wasn’t an issue as much as the key to lock and unlock, it still worked but only because it fit between two side lugs.
OP
The Warn XD9000I is still under restoration. I got all the housings painted and cleared with a 1K Matte. I didn’t want it to look like bumper jewelry, but at the same time not left too far in the background. Now both bumpers, the winch, and the fairlead will be Warn. The fairlead was given to K for his Patriot Blue Rubicon build, but I’ve done all the work removing the corrosion and correcting things, so I’m taking it and giving him the SuperWinch one. 
Hopefully next weekend the winch will all come together and undergo install. I’m still waiting for a number of parts.
Hopefully next weekend the winch will all come together and undergo install. I’m still waiting for a number of parts.
OP
Winch parts received for @Blackjack! Nice stuff. I don’t know the technical names of some of this stuff, but here’s the booty and I’m glad to have it. I expect this thing is going to fire right up when I get it installed, unless a solenoid is bad. I hope that’s not the case. I’ve already started getting the new parts installed. I still have some questions, but the parts he sent are all set up to weatherproof this baby!
So you have six longer bolts for the winch frame. You will want to grab a 5/16-18 tap and actually cut longer threads in the extrusions for the bolts to engage with. Warn just used the tapping portion of the bolt and I feel that is does not give the same hold as taking the time to use a tap. Going with a longer bolt doubles the thread engagement and makes for a stronger winch frame.
I sent you an armature bolt with a solid buss to go the brush plate vs the wire one you have previously, some spare brushes, a better motor end cap, gear end gaskets and a weather cap for the remote plug.
The fun part is the snorkel bolt and hose. With the better motor cap, some RTV and the snorkel bolt you can completely seal up the motor for wet use. I left the engine compartment hose connection up to the installer. You can get a barb fitting to put into your air box, add it to your existing breather system if you have one, or just grab one of those lawn and garden fuel filters you see in a bucket on the counter of most parts stores and just run it up the where the main harness is on the firewall and zip tie it into place.
I sent you an armature bolt with a solid buss to go the brush plate vs the wire one you have previously, some spare brushes, a better motor end cap, gear end gaskets and a weather cap for the remote plug.
The fun part is the snorkel bolt and hose. With the better motor cap, some RTV and the snorkel bolt you can completely seal up the motor for wet use. I left the engine compartment hose connection up to the installer. You can get a barb fitting to put into your air box, add it to your existing breather system if you have one, or just grab one of those lawn and garden fuel filters you see in a bucket on the counter of most parts stores and just run it up the where the main harness is on the firewall and zip tie it into place.
OP
Ok great. I was wondering about some of this. I had not opened the six bolts yet and did not know they were LONGER. I already have that tap and had to actually use it already because one of the holes was not tapped at all and there was no bolt in it from the day I got it. I can run it further and get that set up.
I'm wondering how I'm going to get that armature bolt . I already moved your brushes over because they looked better than mine. Now my old one's will be my spares. Motor end cap is already painted. I noticed it is solid and no gap. When I install that how do I get it to stay on the motor housing? Does it just click on or tap on and stay? I keep wondering how I'm going to get the end of the commutator to slide in between the four brushes too!? Weather cap already installed. Pain in the butt to get all the connections off the solenoids so I could push all the wires out the hole, then back in with the new weather cap. So nice to have that!
I have to think about the last paragraph. LOL
Going out now to do some assembly of the motor housing end of things. Open the gaskets.
My questions:
1) Where do I apply the new grease? I know not to mix the old with new.
2) When I install the end cap how do I get it to stay on the motor housing?
Ok so to assemble the motor you will have to loosely install the armature bolt so the leg of the buss points towards the brush plate. You will also want to have the two ground bars slightly loose on the brush plate so you can slip the brush plate in place and get all the screws started. Treat this like a 350 Chev oil pan and start all the screws before you tighten any of them. Once you have that you can slip the armature into the motor case. I find it easiest to stand the armature with the commutator/bearing up and then slip the motor case over it. An extra pair of hands helps as you now have to get the brushes and springs into their place on the plate and gently work the bearing and then the commutator through the brushes. Once that is together you will want to set it off to the side while you assemble the rest of the winch.
The easiest way to assemble the winch is to start with the gear box end and work your way up vertically. Set clutch end cap on the bench and start stacking everything up. One thing that Warn did is the relationship of the screws to the teeth on the ring gears only allow everything to be assembled in three different positions. So use a couple of screws to make sure everything lines up and that the clutch lever is orientated up in relation to the drum support. I also take the driveshaft and stick it into the gears and using a drill make sure everything runs smoothly. After that you can attach the gear side drum support making sure the bushing is clean. From there put a liberal amount of the new grease on the drum pin where the bushing rides. I do it this way to ensure no grease migrates into the drum where it could get to the brake and less chance of it mixing with the old grease in the gears. It will take a little fiddling to get the driveshaft to line up to the brake so you may have to put the brake coupler in so you can twist the brake if needed. After the drum is seated leave the brake driver in the drum and install the motor side drum support. An extra pair of hands helps here as once you have the support secured you and then drop the motor in place. Several things all have to line up almost at the same time while you make sure not to let the armature fall out of the motor. The armature splines have to pass through the bearing and engage the brake coupler, there is the motor alignment pin that indexes the motor case to the drum support and after all that falls into place then you can slip the motor cap on with the long bolts and tighten them up. Then take you RTV and seal the motor case to the drum support and the motor cap seam to the motor case. I never put RTV on until I have the motor installed as it is too messy and could allow RTV inside the motor.
Still working on the instructions for the breather kit I hope to have done this evening.
The easiest way to assemble the winch is to start with the gear box end and work your way up vertically. Set clutch end cap on the bench and start stacking everything up. One thing that Warn did is the relationship of the screws to the teeth on the ring gears only allow everything to be assembled in three different positions. So use a couple of screws to make sure everything lines up and that the clutch lever is orientated up in relation to the drum support. I also take the driveshaft and stick it into the gears and using a drill make sure everything runs smoothly. After that you can attach the gear side drum support making sure the bushing is clean. From there put a liberal amount of the new grease on the drum pin where the bushing rides. I do it this way to ensure no grease migrates into the drum where it could get to the brake and less chance of it mixing with the old grease in the gears. It will take a little fiddling to get the driveshaft to line up to the brake so you may have to put the brake coupler in so you can twist the brake if needed. After the drum is seated leave the brake driver in the drum and install the motor side drum support. An extra pair of hands helps here as once you have the support secured you and then drop the motor in place. Several things all have to line up almost at the same time while you make sure not to let the armature fall out of the motor. The armature splines have to pass through the bearing and engage the brake coupler, there is the motor alignment pin that indexes the motor case to the drum support and after all that falls into place then you can slip the motor cap on with the long bolts and tighten them up. Then take you RTV and seal the motor case to the drum support and the motor cap seam to the motor case. I never put RTV on until I have the motor installed as it is too messy and could allow RTV inside the motor.
Still working on the instructions for the breather kit I hope to have done this evening.
OP