Track bar replacement / steering upgrade

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I took a closer look but I don’t see any nicks or abrasions that would indicate contact but It is dark and wet out side right now.

these bumpstops look extended to my untrained eye. ....

Those are stock, unextended bump stops.

Here are a couple examples of the interference. The first one even shows your track bar.
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When you cycle the suspension as shown in fuse's thread, part of what you are looking for is track bar/diff cover inference.
 
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That post is just so full of good information and links that haven’t finished it yet. I just went down there to spray it everything with some PB and took a closer look but I still didn’t see anything like that. Here’s a look see

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The only blemish I saw was here. But that looked more like a layer of something coming off.
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Well I saw that one too but I looked closer and it looks like this is only different sized bolts, a pair of caps, and 8 pucks to fit different lift sizes. One of the reviewers even say he thought it was front and rear too lol.

You know after looking I’d swear those are simply hockey pucks and stainless bolts and zinc washers... would that be a shameful thing to do, assembling my own with pucks I already have at home?
 
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My OME Ultimate kit from DPG Off-road came with hockey pucks and self tapping screws/bolts for the front. 2 pucks have a recessed area for the bolt heads for the jounce bumpers don’t get shredded
 
Well I saw that one too but I looked closer and it looks like this is only different sized bolts, a pair of caps, and 8 pucks to fit different lift sizes. One of the reviewers even say he thought it was front and rear too lol.

You know after looking I’d swear those are simply hockey pucks and stainless bolts and zinc washers... would that be a shameful thing to do, assembling my own with pucks I already have at home?

I believe @bobthetj03 used actual hockey pucks. I just used the Metalcloak because everything was done and thought out, and I was doing too much to invent things. also at the time I read people were gluing the pucks, and I can't do that here in Arizona.
 
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I believe @bobthetj03 used actual hockey pucks. I just used the Metalcloak because everything was done and thought out, and I was doing too much to invent things. also at the time I read people were gluing the pucks, and I can't do that here in Arizona.

I just searched hockey puck and was able to narrow it down by member. I was able to find that specific thread where it’s discussed.

That’s probably just what I’ll do! I already have a pack of pucks laying around and I’ll probably be at the hardware store before Friday so I can pick up the tap, washers, and bolts while I’m there.
 
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I just searched hockey puck and was able to narrow it down by member. I was able to find that specific thread where it’s discussed.

That’s probably just what I’ll do! I already have a pack of pucks laying around and I’ll probably be at the hardware store before Friday so I can pick up the tap, washers, and bolts while I’m there.

Take pictures!
 
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I just searched hockey puck and was able to narrow it down by member. I was able to find that specific thread where it’s discussed.

That’s probably just what I’ll do! I already have a pack of pucks laying around and I’ll probably be at the hardware store before Friday so I can pick up the tap, washers, and bolts while I’m there.

You're gonna laugh - but I've used hockey pucks on several jeeps and I use Ultrablack to glue them on. I scratch up the surface of the hockey puck real good to give it a little extra bite, clean the surface of the perch...set it and let it sit. It's drive-able on the street (connected) after about 4 hours and ready for the trail after 48. I've done all of the WABDR here in WA with my front disconnected - lots of contact between jounce bumper and the hockey puck...thing never moved.

One time I decided to remove one just to see how secure they were. I was hammering/prying on it with a prybar to peel it off - took an incredible amount of effort. =)
 
You're gonna laugh - but I've used hockey pucks on several jeeps and I use Ultrablack to glue them on. I scratch up the surface of the hockey puck real good to give it a little extra bite, clean the surface of the perch...set it and let it sit. It's drive-able on the street (connected) after about 4 hours and ready for the trail after 48. I've done all of the WABDR here in WA with my front disconnected - lots of contact between jounce bumper and the hockey puck...thing never moved.

One time I decided to remove one just to see how secure they were. I was hammering/prying on it with a prybar to peel it off - took an incredible amount of effort. =)

Hah no that’s exactly the kind of input I was looking for. Just to be clear, it sounds like you only used the ultra black to attach them. You didn’t use bolts at all? If so then that would probably save me a couple steps.
 
Hah no that’s exactly the kind of input I was looking for. Just to be clear, it sounds like you only used the ultra black to attach them. You didn’t use bolts at all? If so then that would probably save me a couple steps.
That's correct. I'm not saying bolts aren't stronger - I'm just saying in two jeeps with two seasons of overlanding apiece, going over deep mountain washouts and downed trees where the front is fully flexed regularly, I haven't had a problem. Ultrablack is really, really strong if you let it cure fully. I've owned 3 TJ's total - the first I used made to order bumpstops that had self tapping bolts - drilled the front perches. The last two I've gotten lazy and just used the ultrablack and hockey pucks. None of them have detached in use. That doesn't mean they never will, but I'm not sweating it. I keep a few in my trail kit as spares.

If you're installing a lift and doing a full flex test on jackstands with the springs already out - might as well drill them. If you didn't - you can jack up the front of the jeep, clean off the perch with brake-kleen and a rag, and smear on the ultra black (saving you removal of the springs.) The puck fits in between the coil windings. One is the better/proper solution, one works just fine - at least in my experience. YMMV.
 
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One argument I'll make for using body lift pucks over hockey pucks is that the body lift pucks are easier to trim to the length you need. My front bump extensions are 1.375". I couldn't easily get that with a hockey puck.
 
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One argument I'll make for using body lift pucks over hockey pucks is that the body lift pucks are easier to trim to the length you need. My front bump extensions are 1.375". I couldn't easily get that with a hockey puck.
This is true. They're hard to cut. Possible - I've done it with my chop saw but I wouldn't call it "safe" =)
 
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That's correct. I'm not saying bolts aren't stronger - I'm just saying in two jeeps with two seasons of overlanding apiece, going over deep mountain washouts and downed trees where the front is fully flexed regularly, I haven't had a problem. Ultrablack is really, really strong if you let it cure fully. I've owned 3 TJ's total - the first I used made to order bumpstops that had self tapping bolts - drilled the front perches. The last two I've gotten lazy and just used the ultrablack and hockey pucks. None of them have detached in use. That doesn't mean they never will, but I'm not sweating it. I keep a few in my trail kit as spares.

If you're installing a lift and doing a full flex test on jackstands with the springs already out - might as well drill them. If you didn't - you can jack up the front of the jeep, clean off the perch with brake-kleen and a rag, and smear on the ultra black (saving you removal of the springs.) The puck fits in between the coil windings. One is the better/proper solution, one works just fine - at least in my experience. YMMV.

I referenced that post because it seemed to have SO MUCH relevant information that I could learn from.
Based on the replies thus far it seems I probably wont need to replace the whole steering set up and my jeep already has a 3.5 inch lift. It just really depends how easily everything goes over the weekend and if it all fits nicely. If some how I don't hit any snags and everything comes off nicely then I should have the time to tear it all apart and gain a better understanding of It all. There is only so much I can learn from reading, I'm more of the hands on/see it work kind of learner.
 
I wasn't able to cycle the suspension or add the bump stops this weekend so I put those on the list for next weekend. I did get the track bar installed and will post up some of the pictures I remembered to snap in a little bit. I couldn't get that chassis bolt out so I ended up cutting it with a dremel... I knew I should have bough that angle grinder when I was at the store. lol that would have made the process much quicker than working with the tiny cut off wheels for the dremel.