I can be out there by 9:15 or so. What do you say Bob?
03 Sahara Metalcloak build
- Thread starter b0xcar
- Start date
Looks like me and JMT are gonna git to do all the cool rides first :kitt-kit:
OP
OP
Cool = Kiddy?
We have to get you to do this section this Sat. I remember the 1st time @JMT and I came up on this. Just like you did your 1st time, we tucked our tails and said NO WAY!
OP
Did you use new grommets on the torque sleeves? And it's not easy getting the torque right on that back bolt drivers side.
OP
Yes, I bought the felpro gasket and it came with the grommets. The back bolt didnt give me any trouble. The plastic harness in the back was a different story.
@b0xcar I have a NooB question you may answer at your leisure.
I'm looking at your suspension pic and it almost looks like your track bar is touching your drag link. ?
I'm sure it isn't because you would know, but is that a rub or wear mark on the track bar, not sure.
Could it be so close that it is giving your Jeep some vibes?
I'm looking at your suspension pic and it almost looks like your track bar is touching your drag link. ?
I'm sure it isn't because you would know, but is that a rub or wear mark on the track bar, not sure.
Could it be so close that it is giving your Jeep some vibes?
OP
Must be the angle of the camera. Just checked it lock to lock and the drag link isn't even close to touching the track bar. Sure does look like its touching though.
OP
Thanks for pointing that out! After I saw you posted, I darted off to the garage to check that thing out. Lol. You had me worried!
OP
Finished up my front drive shaft before we hit the trails yesterday.
This was my 1st time changing ujoints. The centering yoke was a small challenge but I found one YouTube video that helped me a bunch.
You can get the ball out of the centering yoke by turning it to where the holes are exposed on each side. Use two screwdrivers on each end and pry it out. (Sorry no pic) It may take some time but eventually it will pop free.
This is what you are left with. This ring needs to come out.
I used a make shift puller with two screws, socket, screwdriver and a hammer.
Put 2 screws into a shelf that is mounted to the wall.
Drop a socket that will fit into the centering yoke. (I forget the size I used)
Use a screwdriver to apply pressure against the socket. Tap the centering yoke with a hammer. You can see the inside ring start to break free.
Centering yoke with the ring removed. Clean it up and grease the yoke.
Install the new parts and this is the finished product.
New ujoints installed. Now I get to see how long my work lasts. 96300k miles.
This was my 1st time changing ujoints. The centering yoke was a small challenge but I found one YouTube video that helped me a bunch.
You can get the ball out of the centering yoke by turning it to where the holes are exposed on each side. Use two screwdrivers on each end and pry it out. (Sorry no pic) It may take some time but eventually it will pop free.
This is what you are left with. This ring needs to come out.
I used a make shift puller with two screws, socket, screwdriver and a hammer.
Put 2 screws into a shelf that is mounted to the wall.
Drop a socket that will fit into the centering yoke. (I forget the size I used)
Use a screwdriver to apply pressure against the socket. Tap the centering yoke with a hammer. You can see the inside ring start to break free.
Centering yoke with the ring removed. Clean it up and grease the yoke.
Install the new parts and this is the finished product.
New ujoints installed. Now I get to see how long my work lasts. 96300k miles.
I was just on the MC website a few days ago, and they say the extra coils at the top allow the spring to maintain contact with the spring cups during full droop. And their was something about the collapsed coils no longer affect the spring rate for single rate performance on the road.
That might not be 100% accurate, but it was something like that.