What is the issue with the smooth shank?

BTW- I love their quantity pricing. I guess they think folks can't math. When I see stuff like that and I need multiples, I just load 5 eaches or whatever number I need 1 x however many I want which gives me the individual pricing.
I guess I prefer a hex shaft so it won’t come loose half way through. My old electric drill has a key that isn’t long enough to tighten decisively on the shaft. I do have a Li Battery drill that tightens well. I’ll start with that. I do like the bit style, with the exit hole opposite.
 
With his gearing 1st gear high range should suffice.

yes
Yeah, 1st in 4H works well in my experience, even 2nd on steep climbs. I’ll be honest though, I still don’t feel safe on steep snowy/icy hill climbs. 😅
 
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That type doesn’t chatter, it’ll shave it’s way to the depth you want without any excitement, you’ll be tensed up for nothing, not so with fluted countersinks.
I figured as much with that design. I’ve seen and used the other design that tends to catch. I’m a woodworker by hobby, so I won’t be nervous. I imagine it will be easy. 😀
 
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been leaking ATF since I married the TCase halves. The first one was easy, near the magnet. Tore down, cleaned, new RTV, and put back together yesterday. Now I have a leak and ATF is all on the driver side, not coming out between case halves, and ATF is almost all forward of the case halves. I’m thinking the front yoke nut area. Very hard to tell, so if anyone has a suggestion, I’m open ears. It’s almost like it’s spewing out, bc it’s as far forward as where the transmission meets up w the oil pan. As I’m thinking about it, I wonder whether I put any RTV on the splines and nut of front yoke. iDK, could have missed it. Thanks for any help.
 
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been leaking ATF since I married the TCase halves. The first one was easy, near the magnet. Tore down, cleaned, new RTV, and put back together yesterday. Now I have a leak and ATF is all on the driver side, not coming out between case halves, and ATF is almost all forward of the case halves. I’m thinking the front yoke nut area. Very hard to tell, so if anyone has a suggestion, I’m open ears. It’s almost like it’s spewing out, bc it’s as far forward as where the transmission meets up w the oil pan. As I’m thinking about it, I wonder whether I put any RTV on the splines and nut of front yoke. iDK, could have missed it. Thanks for any help.
Could it be blowing out the vent hose?
 
I figured as much with that design. I’ve seen and used the other design that tends to catch. I’m a woodworker by hobby, so I won’t be nervous. I imagine it will be easy. 😀
The fluted CS work good on wood with a drill press and the work piece clamped down, I use CS drill bits on woodwork.
 
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Could it be blowing out the vent hose?
Good idea! First thing I’ll check tomorrow. I did re-attach, but I noticed it was not as secure as the original. I didn’t understand why as I looked at it.
 
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Could it be blowing out the vent hose?
Ok, that’s not it. I reached up, felt the vent hose fully attached, and dry up on top. The ATF is all on the driver’s side, all over the Savvy TCase cable, all the way to the front of the transmission, up on the tub, all over the Savvy transmission mount, where the TCase meets the Transmission, and blowing over toward the driver frame side. The 1 1/8” nut on the front TCase yoke is dry, but ATF is on the base where the seal meets the case. IDK.
 
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It might be part #11 in this NP 231 diagram. Crown front output seal.

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I guess I prefer a hex shaft so it won’t come loose half way through. My old electric drill has a key that isn’t long enough to tighten decisively on the shaft. I do have a Li Battery drill that tightens well. I’ll start with that. I do like the bit style, with the exit hole opposite.
Put some vise grips on the key handle.
 
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I guess I prefer a hex shaft so it won’t come loose half way through. My old electric drill has a key that isn’t long enough to tighten decisively on the shaft. I do have a Li Battery drill that tightens well. I’ll start with that. I do like the bit style, with the exit hole opposite.
Hand chucks can get plenty tight and every battery operated drill I've used in the last 20 years has had a hand chuck. Get some of these, and start working on your grip strength, you girl...LOL

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Hand chucks can get plenty tight and every battery operated drill I've used in the last 20 years has had a hand chuck. Get some of these, and start working on your grip strength, you girl...LOL

View attachment 226252
When I hand taper a knuckle, the reamer has a very hard smooth shank that the Milwaukee keyless chucks struggle with. I grab a pair of Channelocks and snug them just a bit tighter and that works perfectly.
 
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Hand chucks can get plenty tight and every battery operated drill I've used in the last 20 years has had a hand chuck. Get some of these, and start working on your grip strength, you girl...LOL

View attachment 226252
That’s the second time someone has accused me of being a girl on here. 😡 I think the first was Jerry Bransford. I have some hand problems though, so I’m the first to admit I don’t have the strongest handshake. 🙁
 
That’s the second time someone has accused me of being a girl on here. 😡 I think the first was Jerry Bransford. I have some hand problems though, so I’m the first to admit I don’t have the strongest handshake. 🙁

IT's okay not everyone can strong hands.
 
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@mrblaine, will you suggest the most likely places my TCase is leaking ATF? I’ve already checked the mating surfaces of both halves after cleaning everything up and they seem fine. All the ATF is on the drivers side, all the way from the front of the transmission back to the front output shaft., up high on the tub, covering the savvy transfer case cable, blowing over to the frame on the driver’s side. There’s none on top of the TCase, and the vent tube is secure and dry. All I know to check is the outer seal on the front output shaft. If that’s the problem, does a new seal require RTV on the outer and inner edges at install? Anything else to check, I’m tired of taking the case apart. This will be the third time. Argh...
 
Check the vent at the end of the hose where it mounts to the firewall it might be blowing out the hose and dripping back and blowing around. Is the front yoke dry? If the yoke is dry the seal to the yoke is good but fluid could be coming around the seal and RTV could help seal that. It’s odd that the tub is wet but the TC is dry on top.