Thanks Matt. I thought a lot about new wheels. In some ways I want a change, in others it’s like an indelible imprint that marks my rig. I looked at Raceline beadlocks, Walker Evans, the classic Moab look alikes, and in the end, I don’t really need them, so I’ll just stay for now, I think.Your diffs will thank youCongrats, that’s a great deal. Are you changing the wheels then?
I just wasn’t sure since you were looking at a two different diameters (or at least I thought so, I certainly could have misread).Thanks Matt. I thought a lot about new wheels. In some ways I want a change, in others it’s like an indelible imprint that marks my rig. I looked at Raceline beadlocks, Walker Evans, the classic Moab look alikes, and in the end, I don’t really need them, so I’ll just stay for now, I think.
I sold them parts a couple weeks ago, it's good to know they have a good rep
There have been times I thought about 17’s, especially with 35’s. IMHO, there are pros and cons. On paper, 15’s win out for me.
Lol... I knew it wasn't going to be long before you made the move. Once you hit 4" of lift...its hard to come up with reasons NOT to run 35's. I've been watching too. I'm going to put 35's on the Pintlers (17" wheel). The Coopers I had were from 2008! So...needless to say, they have come back off. I spend enough time on the highway that it scared me to run around on 13 year old tires!
I’m a hopeless addict.
I noticed a difference in ride. Not sure exactly what it was. It might have been the extra sidewall, or the C rating (even at 26 PSI), or the extra unsprung weight (7 lbs a tire more). Hell, it could have been the old tires!I’m a hopeless addict.
It will be interesting to get your feedback on the 17’s. IIRC, you thought 15’s with 35’s were too squishy. Something like that. Get me squared away if I’m wrong.
Same, price per tire being a big part of it. Not everyone likes the "balloon" look - but some of that depends on the wheel. For example on mine, black on black
. But I also wouldn't recommend my wheels regardless, I've lost too many beads - on top of that the valve is in the way of re-seating it on the trail easily.
I've also noticed a trend among a few of us...there is a bit of "current" pulling us all along roughly the same path. Some have stepped out into the faster moving waters...and gone crazy (Chris, Sri, etc). Then there are the guys like you and I that seem to all do roughly the same upgrades at roughly the same time.I’m a hopeless addict.
The 9” rim is an oddity. Guys around here run 10” rim with 35x13.5 Toyo’s. I have two on soft 8’s you can have. Just get them out of my yard!
Price for sure. 17’s are a big $ jump both for wheel and tire. Also not as many options for load c tire. Ballon look with 15’s can be a downer, especially if it’s accentuated, as you mention.Same, price per tire being a big part of it. Not everyone likes the "balloon" look - but some of that depends on the wheel. For example on mine, black on black
The path is somewhat narrow, so most of us follow pretty much the same logic. Some would say I should re-gear again before I go to 35’s, but the market and availability are always weighed in the equation. Plus, going to 35’s first gives me a chance to see how the gears turn them. I have a PM from a guy who preferred 456 gears over his 488’s with exact same setup. Then @rasband runs 513’s. Personally I think I’d like 513’s, but I’d like to know what 456’s are like before spending $500 on gears
+ three days of work. So, there’s justification for a few different paths, though they all lead to the same destination. The current is sweeping us all away, and I think Chris knew that needed to happen because I saw when it took place. The forum wouldn’t really go anywhere if everyone built a nice DD on 31’s with 2.5” OME (really 2”, but that was the old song and dance). When he went crazy, the forum numbers increased a lot and it became a raging flood!
This is the trajectory I see you on. You have the will and the wheelin’ terrain to justify it.
For me it was candid conversations about what I really wanted to do, both with myself and with some others. I have "Conquered" everything Michigan has to offer (by way of natural obstactles). Granted, its not much, but the "build for where you wheel" theory means I was set...overbuilt, really. But, knowing I want to run the Rubicon, Moab, Maybe take a trip to Az and meet up with @starkey480 and @Chris...I'm really going to be happier on 35's. So, I pivoted. Luckily, I built "correctly" and I won't have a lot of undoing and rebuilding.The path is somewhat narrow, so most of us follow pretty much the same logic. Some would say I should re-gear again before I go to 35’s, but the market and availability are always weighed in the equation. Plus, going to 35’s first gives me a chance to see how the gears turn them. I have a PM from a guy who preferred 456 gears over his 488’s with exact same setup. Then @rasband runs 513’s. Personally I think I’d like 513’s, but I’d like to know what 456’s are like before spending $500 on gears
I see myself where you are in about 10-12 years. I’d be interested in doing a build similar to @Irun about that time and letting big red go. Who knows what aftermarket parts for TJ’s will be available then. Might be more feasible to do a 2- Door JLR then.