My nephew called me a Minion…I feel like Michael Myers with this thing on!
I snuck in to surprise the wife and my dog started growling.
05 Flame Red TJ Build
- Thread starter JMT
- Start date
OP
Looking at the CertiFlat DIY Weld Tops like the one you put on top of your mobile weld table. I found this one that looks really nice. https://weldtables.com/collections/...elding-table-top-kit-most-popular-pro-top-kit What is the purpose of the holes? How does it help you weld? Why do they make such an emphasis on the table being so flat? Is it so your pieces are laying flat as you weld?
The holes are to hold fixturing clamps and aids. They are 5/8 diameter and laid out in a perfect grid, so you can drop some shoulder bolts in, place your steel up against them and use them to fixture your project. Makes laying out 90° corners a breeze. Its important to be flat because you will be clamping stuff down to it, and if it's clamped flat, it will be flat when you finish. Its all in an effort to keep the workpieces constrained as much as possible so stuff doesn't move unexpectedly on you.
A clamp that would drop into the holes (there are DIY versions you can make too)
OP
Very interesting system. Those clamps look very helpful for bench welding.
I’m always trying to talk myself into a mag-drill to do that to my big fab table. One day…
so here's that pic of the clamps i use most often. the adjustable C's are helpful. and the deep throats have swivel pads on the ends.
and some of the corner jigs or squares (90*). the bigger 4" channel is used on my big table at work. it's good for both inside and outside 90's. the smaller 1's are what i have at home. toes out does outside corners, toes in does inside corners and i mitered it so i also have a 45* inside point. all just scraps put to use.
and some of the corner jigs or squares (90*). the bigger 4" channel is used on my big table at work. it's good for both inside and outside 90's. the smaller 1's are what i have at home. toes out does outside corners, toes in does inside corners and i mitered it so i also have a 45* inside point. all just scraps put to use.
@JMT you can get your tips and other consumables on Amazon also.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075ZVJHTJ/?tag=wranglerorg-20
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075ZVJHTJ/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Had the same tip on my work welder for almost 2 months and my home tool still has the one it came with 3 yrs ago. Have a few extra. not a whole bunch. The tip dip is made so your not replacing the more expensive tips to often.
OP
I saw a tool like that the other day at HF. I didn't really know what it was for at the time. Thanks for all the good tips. I'm still a bit worried about all this, but that's par for the course when I'm involved. I've made it this far on 35's and TT, so I'll probably do fine, especially with all the help you guys are giving me.
OP
Looks like my Driveshaft is going to be here a day earlier, which means it will be here today. It's already on the Fed Ex truck and out for delivery. I'm glad because this is what it looks like outside right now.
OP
Back in business! Adams sent new bolts and re-painted the shaft after fixing the ujoint and re-balancing. Im going for a drive.
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OP
The rear driveshaft had a bad ujoint, but it wasn't the cause of the shuddering in each gear when I stomp on the gas. Very frustrating. I'm going to post something in the general discussion and see if I can get some help.
OP
Yes, but it's a test I'm going to repeat. I listed all the symptoms in this thread.
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/jeep-shuddering-under-load-in-2h-not-in-4h.57706/
OP
Since I looked in the diff to check the ring and pinion, I decided to clean up the diff cover and hard hat. It was pretty bad. This time around I tried bedliner because I’ve never had much luck with Satin black enamel. It’s just going to get beat up anyway!
