Man...Do I miss Wheelin...My group went out this weekend to a park. I'm just unwilling to get my girl out in the salt bath...Judging from the FB photos though...Looks like they had a great time. I might have to figure it out sooner or later.

You guys talking about your wives made me think of this...JCR posted some pics of their "Golden Bandit." Its a two door JL that is Bad Ass...

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I told my wife that was the stance I wanted eventually for mine. She said...It already looks like that...SMH...I'm getting there...but golly.

Then again, she can change a bunch of stuff in the living room, and it will be weeks before I notice!
 
Man...Do I miss Wheelin...My group went out this weekend to a park. I'm just unwilling to get my girl out in the salt bath...Judging from the FB photos though...Looks like they had a great time. I might have to figure it out sooner or later.

You guys talking about your wives made me think of this...JCR posted some pics of their "Golden Bandit." Its a two door JL that is Bad Ass...

View attachment 74687

I told my wife that was the stance I wanted eventually for mine. She said...It already looks like that...SMH...I'm getting there...but golly.

Then again, she can change a bunch of stuff in the living room, and it will be weeks before I notice!
You don’t think your rig looks like the bandit? SMH

Look at the front axle on that thing! Talk about high pinion!
 
You'll love it! Where are you going to mount the switch?
I’ve got two more slots in the HVAC. I really haven’t thought about it. I’m open to suggestions. My winch on/off and control switch are at the HVAC.
 
It’s about time! Finally reaching the fringes of Rubicon capability. Remind me next time I do this to just buy a Rubicon to begin with...

LOL...That is funny, as I contemplate my next stages of build...I kinda think I should have NOT started with a Rubicon. I probably won't change the T-case and axles...but some of the things that pop into my head...
 
LOL...That is funny, as I contemplate my next stages of build...I kinda think I should have NOT started with a Rubicon. I probably won't change the T-case and axles...but some of the things that pop into my head...
In the end, even if you start with a Rubi, you're going to want to re-gear, so all that is really added if you start with a non-Rubi is the cost of the lockers, front and rear, ~ $1800 for E-Locker, more for ARB, if you don't see snow just Detroit the rear for $600 and lunchbox the front for $400, so, on one hand I like the idea of the Rubi for the TCase and axles, but if you can find a Sport or make a Dana 44 swap on the cheap, starting with a good deal on a Sport gives you more projects to do and at a comparable price to a Rubi. It's really a tough decision unless you are hell bent on having the 4:1 TCase. At this point in our builds and knowledge it might be interesting to re-think what rig we would start with and how we would build it. I'm not far off from where I'd actually go if I started over, but I won't change those few things. I am and will be very proud of this build, as should you and yours...
 
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In the end, even if you start with a Rubi, you're going to want to re-gear, so all that is really added is the cost of the lockers, front and rear, ~ $1800 for E-Locker, more for ARB, if you don't see snow just Detroit the rear for $600 and lunchbox the front for $400, so, on one hand I like the idea of the Rubi for the TCase and axles, but if you can find a Sport or make a Dana 44 swap on the cheap, starting with a good deal on a Sport gives you more projects to do and at a comparable price to a Rubi. It's really a tough decision unless you are hell bent on having the 4:1 TCase. At this point in our builds and knowledge it might be interesting to re-think what rig we would start with and how we would build it. I'm not far off from where I'd actually go if I started over, but I won't change those few things. I am and will be very proud of this build, as should you and yours...

Its the T-case that gives me fits. Sometimes, the 4:1 is awesome. Others...it really sucks. I really need a 3 speed T-case! Plus, I kinda think that there is a bit to be gained from using JK axles, with the extra 5 inches of width. Less backspace on the wheels, plus there might be more room for outboarded shocks. If I design and build my own 4-link, which I've been contemplating and researching, starting with JK axles isn't a big deal, since you change all the control arm mounting points anyway. Not to mention, the JK R&P is bigger and the front is a High Pinion Design.

I'm happy with my build so far, and the plans I have going forward. Eventually though, I know I'll get to where I can outdrive the base suspension. At that point, I'll have some decisions to make. I'm pretty much convinced to get 35's when I wear out my current 33's, so I'm going to start building for that...Piece it out over time...Regear, axle shafts, brakes, etc. That will be the limit of this build...so do I just redo the suspension, redo the suspension and use different axles (no desire to warrant tons) or start over with more knowledge and a fresh jeep.
 
Its the T-case that gives me fits. Sometimes, the 4:1 is awesome. Others...it really sucks. I really need a 3 speed T-case! Plus, I kinda think that there is a bit to be gained from using JK axles, with the extra 5 inches of width. Less backspace on the wheels, plus there might be more room for outboarded shocks. If I design and build my own 4-link, which I've been contemplating and researching, starting with JK axles isn't a big deal, since you change all the control arm mounting points anyway. Not to mention, the JK R&P is bigger and the front is a High Pinion Design.

I'm happy with my build so far, and the plans I have going forward. Eventually though, I know I'll get to where I can outdrive the base suspension. At that point, I'll have some decisions to make. I'm pretty much convinced to get 35's when I wear out my current 33's, so I'm going to start building for that...Piece it out over time...Regear, axle shafts, brakes, etc. That will be the limit of this build...so do I just redo the suspension, redo the suspension and use different axles (no desire to warrant tons) or start over with more knowledge and a fresh jeep.
What are your plans for fitting 35's under your current 2" OME and 1.25" JKS BL? I'd like that in my build thread if you don't mind...

I'm with you, my build will max out at 35's. If I ever wanted to do more than that, I'd start over with another rig, go tons, auto tranny, engine swap, etc...and for that I'd just start with an SE.

I've read those things about the 4:1 TCASE. A blessing and a curse. I'm interested to see how my 6-speed tranny crawls with the 456 ratio in 1Low. It should be pretty low and give me more control. Still very viable gearing for 35's.

That's interesting about the JK axles. It's a pretty good starting point all around. If anyone could do it, it would be you...
 
What are your plans for fitting 35's under your current 2" OME and 1.25" JKS BL? I'd like that in my build thread if you don't mind...

I'm with you, my build will max out at 35's. If I ever wanted to do more than that, I'd start over with another rig, go tons, auto tranny, engine swap, etc...and for that I'd just start with an SE.

I've read those things about the 4:1 TCASE. A blessing and a curse. I'm interested to see how my 6-speed tranny crawls with the 456 ratio in 1Low. It should be pretty low and give me more control. Still very viable gearing for 35's.

That's interesting about the JK axles. It's a pretty good starting point all around. If anyone could do it, it would be you...
My plans for fitting 35's include a highline front fender of some sort, metal work in the rear and 3" springs. I can pretty easily see 10" travel shocks. I'm already sitting at 5" of uptravel, and that is the hard one to get. I might be able to squeeze 12" of travel in that package...but that will be tougher. I don't remember where I have contact that limits me to 5" uptravel right now. I think its the trackbar...which means I'd have to do a triangulated rear CA set-up (like Savvy's midarm).

The 4:1 is AWESOME in the rocks, especially with the 4.10 gears...its very easy to keep it running, even with the manual. However, some of the higher speed stuff, like running sand dunes, I need to keep it in 4H because 4L is just too low for the speeds you need to maintain. Ironically, once I regear and do the suspension, the 4:1 T-case will probably be perfect. I'll have more torque in 4H (I run out of power on the hill climbs in sand) and the suspension upgrades will let me travel faster at the bottom of the hill.
 
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My plans for fitting 35's include a highline front fender of some sort, metal work in the rear and 3" springs. I can pretty easily see 10" travel shocks. I'm already sitting at 5" of uptravel, and that is the hard one to get. I might be able to squeeze 12" of travel in that package...but that will be tougher. I don't remember where I have contact that limits me to 5" uptravel right now. I think its the trackbar...which means I'd have to do a triangulated rear CA set-up (like Savvy's midarm).

The 4:1 is AWESOME in the rocks, especially with the 4.10 gears...its very easy to keep it running, even with the manual. However, some of the higher speed stuff, like running sand dunes, I need to keep it in 4H because 4L is just too low for the speeds you need to maintain. Ironically, once I regear and do the suspension, the 4:1 T-case will probably be perfect. I'll have more torque in 4H (I run out of power on the hill climbs in sand) and the suspension upgrades will let me travel faster at the bottom of the hill.
I agree with the high speeds delimma with the 4:1 T case, will find myself in 4th gear while in 4 low quite often with the 5 speed MT.

If I was doing it over, I'd build a non-rubi LJ since their prices aren't crazy. Modify to properly fit 35s with lockers. I've never wheeled without them and I think I'd find out quickly how much I miss them.
 
My plans for fitting 35's include a highline front fender of some sort, metal work in the rear and 3" springs. I can pretty easily see 10" travel shocks. I'm already sitting at 5" of uptravel, and that is the hard one to get. I might be able to squeeze 12" of travel in that package...but that will be tougher. I don't remember where I have contact that limits me to 5" uptravel right now. I think its the trackbar...which means I'd have to do a triangulated rear CA set-up (like Savvy's midarm).

The 4:1 is AWESOME in the rocks, especially with the 4.10 gears...its very easy to keep it running, even with the manual. However, some of the higher speed stuff, like running sand dunes, I need to keep it in 4H because 4L is just too low for the speeds you need to maintain. Ironically, once I regear and do the suspension, the 4:1 T-case will probably be perfect. I'll have more torque in 4H (I run out of power on the hill climbs in sand) and the suspension upgrades will let me travel faster at the bottom of the hill.
I figured the highline fenders. I'm thinking the same way, but that is 2020-2021 in my mind. I want to do the TT beforehand. At 3" this can be done. I believe @CasterTroy has done it at 2". He did MC on the fronts, trimmed the rear flares and opened up the wheel well toward the rear, bending the flare to bring it in line with the new shape of the wheel well. It looks completely natural.

I'm at 5" of travel now too.