Just took a pic for reference. I’ll just shave a bit off the edge of the crossmember.
View attachment 158587

I had to do the same thing, it was hitting and keeping me from getting the transmount lined up.

I did a little more then shave tho, I can drop the skid and snap a pic if needed but you know what you are doings.
 
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I had to do the same thing, it was hitting and keeping me from getting the transmount lined up.

I did a little more then shave tho, I can drop the skid and snap a pic if needed but you know what you are doings.
Thank you, but not necessary, a few more mills shaved off should give it all the needed clearance. I can't imagine a scenario where the TCase moves up and down or left and right that much. Nothing more than some vibrations.

It is nice to be able to remove the skid so easily now with the separate crossmember!
 
Quick question,
If you posted I must of missed, did you get the engine skid also?
If so let me know what you think about the install, I ordered mine today.
 
Brother I got 2 and been on furlough for 45days: I can did that! I had to beg to make the order. Will not disclose what it cost me haha!
Don’t tell me. It cost you “sex”? 😉

praying you can get back to work. This country needsto get over the stupidity and go to work. We didnt become the greatest nation on earth by being afraid of a little virus
 
Today was cool because about 40 pages back in this build thread I had to move my console back 1” and raise the shifter (don’t ask how I did that, but I did, it’s 40 pages back), due to the shifter hitting the rear of the shifting box and tearing up the lower boot after the body lift. It was a less than ideal situation. The console was not totally bolted down, so it moved. It was at that time that I thought through the geometry and decided that the ‘right’ answer was a TT. Today I finally moved the console back forward 1” and dropped the shifter. It did solve the problem. Man, it is so nice. One change begets another.
E75E7225-5189-4716-AA71-61BFF0FEDA36.jpeg
 
I have been wading through this monster with @starkey480 and he was setting his front pinion, having a real time of it, till he totally figured it out and got it perfect. I, on the other hand, totally forgot about the front pinion. So, I went out and measured and my pinion is 9.50 and my driveshaft is 8.14. I’m really happy about that part!
465E0F1C-F9F0-4719-A42D-DF71958EFBAD.jpeg

Tomorrow I’m going to put the trackbar on anyway, push the CA’s out to just shy of dead center, and hope that when the different JKS trackbar end comes from @Wildman, it will help me clear. The 2” bumpstop is dead on if I can get that to clear. Shocks would be next thing to hit. Tires are fine. After that I’ll get everything bolted back up. I need to clean up a few things along the way, like shaving a bit off the Savvy crossmember. After I get everything buttoned up I’ll just wait for the Adam’s drive shaft that’s coming from @Kris M, a guy who showed up to wheel in TX just as I was leaving, and would have really like to have met. When it comes I’ll make final pinion adjustments and head out to the muffler shop.
 
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Driveshaft arrived a day early. I was buttoning everything up when it arrived. It’s definitely spot on at 19”.

My pinion is 18, my Adams DC is 20. Pretty steep.

Full specs:
3.25” rear suspension lift, 19” driveshaft, 2.5” over stock at dead center of skid plate. 4” over stock at frame.
27CCA6EA-1E19-4DA6-BAA0-76798635547C.jpeg
48ECA188-A755-4472-916A-94167301D23D.jpeg

Any suggestions? I have not driven it yet. Should I move the pinion up a bit more? My lowers are as short as possible. Wheel is not centered in wheel well, but there is no tire interference at full bump. I am not happy about this, but I have no choice unless someone has a suggestion. My known options are to change JKS trackbar end (@Wildman is sending me a more bent end), Currie trackbar, or modify the crossmember significantly. I’m open to suggestions.
 
Driveshaft arrived a day early. I was buttoning everything up when it arrived. It’s definitely spot on at 19”.

My pinion is 18, my Adams DC is 20. Pretty steep.

Full specs:
3.25” rear suspension lift, 19” driveshaft, 2.5” over stock at dead center of skid plate. 4” over stock at frame.
View attachment 159601View attachment 159602
Any suggestions? I have not driven it yet. Should I move the pinion up a bit more? My lowers are as short as possible. Wheel is not centered in wheel well, but there is no tire interference at full bump. I am not happy about this, but I have no choice unless someone has a suggestion. My known options are to change JKS trackbar end (@Wildman is sending me a more bent end), Currie trackbar, or modify the crossmember significantly. I’m open to suggestions.
No harm in testing driving to feel for vibrations, then if there is you can lengthen the uppers a bit with the part from @Wildman, if that doesn’t work the currie bar. I suspect 2 degrees low will give you a bit of vibes.
 
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WOW that looks steep in the pictures.
I'm wondering if you might just need to move your trackbar bracket? Cut the stock one off and weld on a different one?
 
WOW that looks steep in the pictures.
I'm wondering if you might just need to move your trackbar bracket? Cut the stock one off and weld on a different one?
If I knew how to weld. Have to take it some place. $$$ I agree though
 
I'm assuming the axle is pulled forward in the wheel well? Hard to tell from the pictures. What does the top control arm look like (in terms of adjustments)?
 
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