05 Flame Red TJ Build

Alex01 said:
I also run at 8psi whenever I go out. The only reason I mentioned beadlocks was because if you were surrounded by snow in winter it may have been a type of wheeling you get into.
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I need to think this through more. When I snow wheeled in January, a lot of guys were running 15x10 wheels with 35x13.5’s and airing down to 5-6psi. I personally don’t care for snow wheelin too much. Opportunities to do the kind of wheelin I like are not nearby. In my mind, it’s getting hard to justify spending more on the heap. It even crossed my mind that all I do now is crawl the mall. It sucks because I don’t only like to wheel to get out, but to improve my driving skills and line choices. Let me think some more. Thanks for the feedback. It is helpful.
 
bobthetj03 said:
That'll get old real fast. "Hey, lets go wheeling!" Hold on, let me swap out my wheels. Those wheels would look badass, on a 70 fleetside Chevy dropped in the weeds.
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I believe you are correct, it will get old switching wheels out. It would be interesting to have a set of 34x10.5 interco’s though. 😉
 
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had i been able to stick to 15's i was thinking of the TSL 35x10.5.

if any of y'all ever consider interco's be sure to check the blem list, they can be had for less than 1/2 the cost sometimes. mine were listed at over 300 a tire and i got them off the blem list for 185ea. and i'll be dammed if i can find even 1 of the blemishes.
 
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most 17's are gonna drag you into an E class when you start to look at 35's the MTR and some Nitto are the only 35's you may have to go for a metric measurement like a 315/70.
 
someguysjeep said:
most 17's are gonna drag you into an E class when you start to look at 35's the MTR and some Nitto are the only 35's you may have to go for a metric measurement like a 315/70.
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True, I usually see E, rarer D, and then there’s our beloved C, not often found.
 
I've been running some type of beadlock wheel for a long while. Getting them mounted is easy since you are the one that mounts the tire onto the rim. The hard part is torqueing all the bolts. And then depending on the type if beadlock you use every month you need to check the torque on all the bolts. So if you have a 32 bolt beadlock that is 160 bolts you will be checking is you have 5 rims.

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I used my 3/8" air gun and then torqued them. I never had any balancing issues and didn't have any vibrations or such. I know some people run balancing beads or you can find a local tire shop that will balance them for you. But my Jeep wasn't my DD either.
 
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the MTR and the Nitto are C's. then Mickey Thompson, Dick Cepic and Cooper make some D's.


Wildman said:
I've been running some type of beadlock wheel for a long while. Getting them mounted is easy since you are the one that mounts the tire onto the rim. The hard part is torqueing all the bolts. And then depending on the type if beadlock you use every month you need to check the torque on all the bolts. So if you have a 32 bolt beadlock that is 160 bolts you will be checking is you have 5 rims.

View attachment 189603

I used my 3/8" air gun and then torqued them. I never had any balancing issues and didn't have any vibrations or such. I know some people run balancing beads or you can find a local tire shop that will balance them for you. But my Jeep wasn't my DD either.
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i have DIY's w/36 bolts and them suckers take about an hr a piece to put together and torque properly. like 5-6 times around that pattern to get to 30# down evenly torqued.
 
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someguysjeep said:
i have DIY's w/36 bolts and them suckers take about an hr a piece to put together and torque properly. like 5-6 times around that pattern to get to 30# down evenly torqued.
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Yes but when you are doing your monthly-bi-monthly check you are just checking your torque so it doesn't take as long. I found that after the first 6 month I could then check them every 3 months and not have any issues.
With my dual beadlock rims I checked them every other month for the first 6 months and then only every 6 months from there on out.
 
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I know this is a old thread but I do have a question on the extending of the shifter with the m8x1.25. I am a new 05 jeep TJ owner that has been lifted and I am having the same issue you were having with the inner shift boot. How are you installing the bolt to extend the shifter? Are you replacing the Hex bolt and if so do you have a pic? Sorry a Noob here...thanks in advance. I am mechanically inclined somewhat but the explanation or lack of is throwing me off.

Darren
 
CUNNY504 said:
I know this is a old thread but I do have a question on the extending of the shifter with the m8x1.25. I am a new 05 jeep TJ owner that has been lifted and I am having the same issue you were having with the inner shift boot. How are you installing the bolt to extend the shifter? Are you replacing the Hex bolt and if so do you have a pic? Sorry a Noob here...thanks in advance. I am mechanically inclined somewhat but the explanation or lack of is throwing me off.

Darren
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https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/05-flame-red-tj-build.3998/post-192226
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/nsg370-shifter-hitting-after-body-lift.12355/
 
CUNNY504 said:
I know this is a old thread but I do have a question on the extending of the shifter with the m8x1.25. I am a new 05 jeep TJ owner that has been lifted and I am having the same issue you were having with the inner shift boot. How are you installing the bolt to extend the shifter? Are you replacing the Hex bolt and if so do you have a pic? Sorry a Noob here...thanks in advance. I am mechanically inclined somewhat but the explanation or lack of is throwing me off.

Darren
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I bought a cylinder, a new longer bolt (I think it was 2”), and a few washers. Placed the cYlinder between the upper shifter and the lower shifter. Stuck the longer bolt with a few washers (to make it the right depth as it screws in) through the mounting location On the upper shifter, through the cylinder and into the lower shifter threads. If I were you I’d use some blue loctite. Tighten down. The big knobby portion should now be out of the lower shift boot.

Sorry, no more pics. I have since removed this solution and replaced w a Tummy Tuck.
 
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Found some TJ Dana 44 shafts for $40. As long as the splines are straight and everything good, should I buy them for trail insurance? (33x12.5, 456's, easy on the skinny pedal always)
 
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JMT said:
Found some TJ Dana 44 shafts for $40. As long as the splines are straight and everything good, should I buy them for trail insurance? (33x12.5, 456's, easy on the skinny pedal always)
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If you don’t....you’ll wish you did! (I’d need to get beefier ones and keep originals for spares)
 
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JMT said:
Found some TJ Dana 44 shafts for $40. As long as the splines are straight and everything good, should I buy them for trail insurance? (33x12.5, 456's, easy on the skinny pedal always)
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Jeep math says new revolution shafts are officially $40 cheaper and cover basic/preventive maintenance of rear wheel bearings :ROFLMAO:

Spare shafts aren't a terrible idea. I'd only bring them though on trips like Moab where the downtime would shut you down. If your axle is like the rubicon all you'll need to bring though is the smaller of the two shafts since they could be interchanged side to side for a quick fix.
 
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Alex01 said:
Not a terrible idea. I would only bring them on moab type trips though

Jeep math says new revolution shafts are officially $40 cheaper and cover basic/preventive maintenance of rear wheel bearings :ROFLMAO:

Spare shafts aren't a terrible idea. I'd only bring them though on trips like Moab where the downtime would shut you down. If your axle is like the rubicon all you'll need to bring though is the smaller of the two shafts since they could be interchanged side to side for a quick fix.
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I was thinking of Moab.

Interesting about only bringing the shorter shaft. I remember someone on the forum installed them on the wrong sides and the short one engaged, but only about half of the splines length.

My Dana 44 came from a 2005 Sport. One shaft is shorter than the other. Not sure if they are the same as the Dana 44 in a Rubicon.
 
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