05 Flame Red TJ Build

Kathy said:
I don’t know how I wasn’t following this thread. Great work and details. Wondering about the comment on if anti seize is used torque specs are different. Can you tell me what it would be if antiseize is used.? Dave seems to use it on Everything and I follow his lead. Thanks!
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I learned some about the difference in torque specs when different materials are used, such as steel vs zinc and how anti-seize functions as a lubricant from @mrblaine. The added slip means you will need to lower the torque on your wrench to get the proper spec. He showed me a chart with this info on the web. I have it somewhere!? So if you torque to spec but use anti-seize, you’re over-torquing. It gets more interesting from there, but I’m not articulate on the subject now. Ifd look for the chart.
 
Thanks! Don’t stress about finding it. I can try to google it. Very interesting.
 
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Got my Warn Rock Crawler Bumper through my friends Walt and Susan who were way out in AZ and picked it up from a gracious forum member and brought it back to the Lone Star State!

This thing is awesome. I’m so blessed to get this!

Original in very good condition
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Prepped by sanding using 220 and 120 and angle grinder with 80 for cleaning up dings and welds
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Self etching primer
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Semi-gloss finish that I love
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Tell me that doesn’t look BRAND NEW! I’m not a painter or the son of a painter. Yes, those are beer cans. no, I did not drink them all today. That was today and yesterday.
 
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More changes today. Removed the old Curt trailer hitch and the OEM bumper. Weight together = 42.8lbs. Weight Warn Bumper = 42.4lb. So I’m not adding any weight.

Before:
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After:
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I made two templates, one paper with holes and another with my angleized template to drill the four extra holes in the crossmember.
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Didn’t have the hardware yet, so those are not in. Bought some this evening at Tractor Supply Company. Prices on grade 8 hardware are awesome. Way cheaper than Ace Hardware or NAPA. $0.53 for four bolts. The body lift may allow me to get behind with a deep socket and jointed socket tomorrow (another possible benefit @bobthetj03, though I have to agree, it is quite hideous when looking at it). Poison Spyder frame tie in on the way and a chain catch for trailer too, which I’ll hopefully have welded on this coming week. Then off to our annual hunt in South TX!
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bobthetj03 said:
Sans the body lift butt crack, that bumper looks super clean on there. Sorry brah, the hatred in body lifts is strong with this one.
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I find it hard to disagree. At 15 yards it looks killer. Up close not so much. I’m hoping the 33’s will distract. Haven’t got pricing yet on the 33’s. They’re wholesale, so it’s a community buy type of thing. I’m hoping to get the Mickeys or Coopers for $150 per. If so I’ll get 5 and another DC-2 and be set for awhile.
 
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Starrs said:
I emailed DPG and told them everything I had done so far and what it would take for 35" KM2s. Awaiting their response. I want 35s again bad hahaha
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Man, I know what your saying. I have a plan for our setup going to 35’s. Let me know if you want me to spill my beans pm.
 
JMT said:
Man, I know what your saying. I have a plan for our setup going to 35’s. Let me know if you want me to spill my beans pm.
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I'm not wanting to switch fenders. I just don't know if I need 4" springs or what. I can get 35" km2s right now on tire crawler for like 260-270 a tire. And jumping to 35s is still cheaper than me buying a new JL lol
 
Starrs said:
I'm not wanting to switch fenders. I just don't know if I need 4" springs or what. I can get 35" km2s right now on tire crawler for like 260-270 a tire. And jumping to 35s is still cheaper than me buying a new JL lol
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4” springs would work, but just remove you’re 1/2” yellow spacer, add a 1.75” spacer, get the BMBrake pads. You’re not hardcore wheel-in’ are you? Not sure if you'd Need a longer driveshaft. Might need some double adjustable upper control Arms in the rear too.
 
JMT said:
4” springs would work, but just remove you’re 1/2” yellow spacer, add a 1.75” spacer, get the BMBrake pads. You’re not hardcore wheel-in’ are you? Not sure if you'd Need a longer driveshaft. Might need some double adjustable upper control Arms in the rear too.
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Sounds pretty good. No I'm not hardcore wheeling. Would axles need to be changed and factory rubi gearing ok you think? Does OME make a 1.75" spacer or which one do you recommend?
 
You could live with the gearing IMO. Of course, re-gearing would be ideal, but you CAN do 35’s w/out it. Any spacers would be fine. I have some Rubicon Express I might use to go to 35’s. Oh, shocks, you’d need longer shocks too.

You can avoid the longer shocks, spacers and drive shaft with MC fenders.;)
 
Starrs said:
https://www.quadratec.com/p/energy-...ing-isolators-175-lift-97-06-jeep-wrangler-tj

So spacers front and back. 4" shocks you think? Just working on a punch list, and I'll gather pieces as I go. Axles ok or need different ones?
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Yep, 1.75” spacers will make your suspension lift ~3.75. Then with your 1.25” BL you can fit the 35’s nicely. 4” shocks. Better brake pads. You only need the pads. The Dana 30 is stout up front and the Dana 44 is all good on the rear. Not sure about your rear driveshaft. Probably need upper control Arms on the rear to center your wheel in the wheel well.
 
JMT said:
Yep, 1.75” spacers will make your suspension lift ~3.75. Then with your 1.25” BL you can fit the 35’s nicely. 4” shocks. Better brake pads. You only need the pads. The Dana 30 is stout up front and the Dana 44 is all good on the rear. Not sure about your rear driveshaft. Probably need upper control Arms on the rear to center your wheel in the wheel well.
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Alrighty last question lol springs good or need longer ones? Sounds like it's almost a whole new kit lol
 
Starrs said:
Alrighty last question lol springs good or need longer ones? Sounds like it's almost a whole new kit lol
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If you go the spacers route, you can stay with the OME springs. If not, you go to 4” Currie’s. See what DPG says too!
 
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