Yes the stalk

How about the plastic shroud behind the steering wheel? You should have 2 8 or 9 mm head screws that retain the air bag to the wheel and then 2 smaller acrews for the plastic shroud on the back

I screwed in the 2 8mm bolts to hold the airbag to the steering wheel. I just looked for another shroud behind the steering wheel. All I have is an upper and lower shroud that sort of clip together. I am missing the two screws that hold the upper and lower shroud together, but I know they are Philips head screws and not machined threads. These are 4mm diameter and 13mm long.

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I screwed in the 2 8mm bolts to hold the airbag to the steering wheel. I just looked for another shroud behind the steering wheel. All I have is an upper and lower shroud that sort of clip together. I am missing the two screws that hold the upper and lower shroud together, but I know they are Philips head screws and not machined threads. These are 4mm diameter and 13mm long.

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I think my wording is incorrect. The part I'm referring to attaches to the back of the steering wheel itself.
 
I screwed in the 2 8mm bolts to hold the airbag to the steering wheel. I just looked for another shroud behind the steering wheel. All I have is an upper and lower shroud that sort of clip together. I am missing the two screws that hold the upper and lower shroud together, but I know they are Philips head screws and not machined threads. These are 4mm diameter and 13mm long.

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Also you are correct those are not screws for the clamshell shroud as those are usually a very coarse thread for plastic and are longer.
 
You're getting there buddy. Almost done. Looking really good.

I'm still a few weeks before I think it'll come back out of the garage.

You got this WILDMAN! Hang in there. You are a JEEP ROCK STAR! I'm dragging myself to the garage!
 
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You got this WILDMAN! Hang in there. You are a JEEP ROCK STAR! I'm dragging myself to the garage!

I'll get it, just taking longer than I'd hoped. Got another appointment tomorrow so won't get into the garage until Friday.

CFS Radiator is in. The shroud took a different thread bolt. Fortunately I had some that fit. I added the serpentine belt route on top.

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What did you cover the belt routing with? I need to do something like that on mine since I've always got to get the book out to verify the belt routing with when I do it.

Looks like you'll be testing out that auto in no time.
 
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I'll get it, just taking longer than I'd hoped. Got another appointment tomorrow so won't get into the garage until Friday.



What did you cover the belt routing with? I need to do something like that on mine since I've always got to get the book out to verify the belt routing with when I do it.

Looks like you'll be testing out that auto in no time.

For now I just put some clear packing tape, but my son works at a bike shop and they have a product that they use to protect frames. It’s clear and a few mm thick. I want to get some of that for the final version.

I was in Green River, UT when one of my bearings went out last trip. The serpentine was coming apart. I barely made it to an O’Reilly’s. I could look up the routing diagram on the internet, but what if I was out of cell range? So I thought good idea to make one.

I think I’m going to make my own routing diagram. I’ll send you one.
 
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This is mostly for myself tomorrow.

  • Install two steering wheel screws
  • Remove cats from manifold for routing transmission lines
  • Look at routing of transmission lines on K’s rig
  • Run the speedo healer line along the transmission harness
  • Remove dipstick from transmission
  • Install upper aluminum plate then flex plate and stiffener on crank shaft and torque to 100ft-lbs with blue loctite
  • Lightly grease nose of T/c and install transmission with bracket for shifter cable
  • Install flex plate to T/C and torque to 65 ft-lbs With blue loctite
  • Install starter
  • Install access panel
  • Plug connectors onto transmission
  • Re-install the dip stick
  • Remove transmission jack and support transmission at bellhousing
  • Remove transmission pan and be prepared to drain it.
  • Remove old filter, install new with O-ring
  • Take magnet from old pan and put in new
  • Install and use thread sealant on second bolt from front left. Torque to 14.5 ft-lb
  • Install transmission lines
  • Install cable shifter
  • Re-install cats to manifold
  • Install O2 sensors
  • Install sending unit on pan with thread sealant
  • Install wire on sending unit
  • Fill transmission with ATF+4 through dipstick
  • Install Savvy MUA crossmember
  • Install Savvy auto transmission bracket and exhaust hanger
  • Install TCase and Savvy TCase shift cable
  • Plug harness connectors into TCase including speedo healer
  • Splice fuel pump wires at rail
  • Install drive shafts
  • Re-install battery
  • Check over everything
  • Turn the key
  • If all works burp the radiator
  • If all works drive the rig and add transmission fluid to bring up to proper level
  • Install skid plate
 
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When my original radiator blew, I found a replacement belt routing decal and I put it on the underside of the hood, near the emissions decal, instead of the radiator. I figured the hood would be there longer than the radiator.
 
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For now I just put some clear packing tape, but my son works at a bike shop and they have a product that they use to protect frames. It’s clear and a few mm thick. I want to get some of that for the final version.

I was in Green River, UT when one of my bearings went out last trip. The serpentine was coming apart. I barely made it to an O’Reilly’s. I could look up the routing diagram on the internet, but what if I was out of cell range? So I thought good idea to make one.

I think I’m going to make my own routing diagram. I’ll send you one.

I think @Jezza has a routing diagram on his site. Confirmed...LINK-—->https://texasjeepproducts.com/produ...wrangler-tj-intake-air-sensor-weld-on-fitting