Dude...send me the two rod ends. I can make em match, if one works. I have a press, welder, torch, etc. Or, if @BuildBreakRepeat or @Wildman are willing, I'm sure they would both help you with those things.

What have you got to lose? You need a welder to cut enough from the tank mount. You need a press to bend the bar....or you need a press/torch to bend the end.

For a 150 bucks you can get a harbor freight press...just sayin...that might be your cheapest way out

https://www.harborfreight.com/20-ton-shop-press-32879.html
There is a coupon in this months flyer to make it 149.99 (code is 54324174)
I'll mock it up and see if the bend will work. If it does, I could send them both to you and pay you to bend the JJ rod end to fit.

I have thought about that HF press, but I really have no place to put it. While on the topic, the 6 35's I have in the backyard are driving my wife crazy! 🤣

Edit: Or maybe buy it and just return it after use!
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: BuildBreakRepeat
I'll mock it up and see if the bend will work. If it does, I could send them both to you and pay you to bend the JJ rod end to fit.

I have thought about that HF press, but I really have no place to put it. While on the topic, the 6 35's I have in the backyard are driving my wife crazy! 🤣

Edit: Or maybe buy it and just return it after use!
Harbor freight always accepts returns :)
 
  • Like
Reactions: JMT
@JMT cutting the lowers sounds like a terrible idea. If you don’t wanna chase your tail forever I’d order the savvy gas tank skid or Currie rear track bar or do both. The savvy skid is pushed back making the plastic tank sit right up against the rear crossmember at the bumper. Without it, I believe the tank is about 1” forward of it.

I did the mod originally with OME springs, adjustable uppers, factory lowers and currie’s bar and bracket. No issues.

Not all Jeeps are alike but there’s plenty of stories about track bar interference. I don’t know that I’ve heard of one issue with currie’s.

Good luck.
 
@JMT cutting the lowers sounds like a terrible idea. If you don’t wanna chase your tail forever I’d order the savvy gas tank skid or Currie rear track bar or do both. The savvy skid is pushed back making the plastic tank sit right up against the rear crossmember at the bumper. Without it, I believe the tank is about 1” forward of it.

I did the mod originally with OME springs, adjustable uppers, factory lowers and currie’s bar and bracket. No issues.

Not all Jeeps are alike but there’s plenty of stories about track bar interference. I don’t know that I’ve heard of one issue with currie’s.

Good luck.
Thanks for chiming in. I was still wondering whether the Savvy skid provided any more room at the front of the skid. That is good to know. Also good to know that I’m likely one bar away from victory. 🍻
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: BuildBreakRepeat
I’ve been working on something on the side recently. @jodomcfrodo contacted me about a front bumper. I was still running the EAG Chinese thing. He was upgrading to a Savvy and getting rid of his Warn Stubby Rock Crawler. He must have known I wanted one to match my rear bumper. Thanks so much to him for helping this happen.

I cleaned it all up, as usual, scratched it up with scotch-brite pads, washed it, alcohol, 2-3 coats of self-etch prime, and 5 coats of black satin enamel top coat. I was able to shave 10lbs. Now I’m one of the cool kids like @ac_ “She’s a beaut Clarke!”
8CB8FA3A-F9CF-4BE7-8861-7AEC305A475F.jpeg
52B7C11A-3BB0-4600-B203-F5AFCDAF4D1C.jpeg
21B68079-BB66-4B1E-9A98-575C6C114BF0.jpeg
54E91C93-F62F-4B7E-947C-864AAE0391CB.jpeg
1CF137EA-97B7-46CF-B02F-B28B4D59270E.jpeg
EF9F4C22-C8A6-4346-93DB-A094B79E3EF7.jpeg
1E8E3C32-3FC2-4F2F-8A5E-AE2A9B560554.jpeg
 
I’ve been working on something on the side recently. @jodomcfrodo contacted me about a front bumper. I was still running the EAG Chinese thing. He was upgrading to a Savvy and getting rid of his Warn Stubby Rock Crawler. He must have known I wanted one to match my rear bumper. Thanks so much to him for helping this happen.

I cleaned it all up, as usual, scratched it up with scotch-brite pads, washed it, alcohol, 2-3 coats of self-etch prime, and 5 coats of black satin enamel top coat. I was able to shave 10lbs. Now I’m one of the cool kids like @ac_ “She’s a beaut Clarke!”
View attachment 161955View attachment 161956View attachment 161957View attachment 161958View attachment 161959View attachment 161960View attachment 161961
That looks awesome!
 
  • Like
Reactions: JMT
I spent awhile cleaning up the fairlead and making the inner edges perfect. I worked on the edges on the backside too so it is smooth as silk. It was gouged a bit from the hook. I’ll be moving to a TRE synthetic line and safety thimble soon. With my old rope I’ll make some soft shackles..
 
Been quiet for awhile. I’ve been tired after the TT. I needed some rest. Good news is I’m trying something new. I mocked up the JKS adjustable rear trackbar end that @Wildman sent me by taping a piece of wood to it and crawling under the Jeep. It might give me 1/4”. That won’t solve it so I talked to Spence at Core 4x4 and ordered their tier 4 on the condition they will cover the return. It will be an interesting experiment. It has JJ’s on both ends.
 
Been quiet for awhile. I’ve been tired after the TT. I needed some rest. Good news is I’m trying something new. I mocked up the JKS adjustable rear trackbar end that @Wildman sent me by taping a piece of wood to it and crawling under the Jeep. It might give me 1/4”. That won’t solve it so I talked to Spence at Core 4x4 and ordered their tier 4 on the condition they will cover the return. It will be an interesting experiment. It has JJ’s on both ends.
I assume you're referring to there TB not control arms.
 
Yep, trackbar. I explained the problem and how only Currie has a bar that consistently clears with these setups. He seemed optimistic, but admitted he did not know if it would work.
What is it about the Currie bar that makes it clear better?
 
What is it about the Currie bar that makes it clear better?
I hope to find out. The guy at Core 4x4 mentioned that it looks like the Currie follows the factory bend. I think that would actually be better than the JKS. It needs to be straighter on the adjustable end. I’ve got some pics of the Currie from another member and I’m going to compare with the Core when/if I get it installed.
 
I’ve been working on something on the side recently. @jodomcfrodo contacted me about a front bumper. I was still running the EAG Chinese thing. He was upgrading to a Savvy and getting rid of his Warn Stubby Rock Crawler. He must have known I wanted one to match my rear bumper. Thanks so much to him for helping this happen.

I cleaned it all up, as usual, scratched it up with scotch-brite pads, washed it, alcohol, 2-3 coats of self-etch prime, and 5 coats of black satin enamel top coat. I was able to shave 10lbs. Now I’m one of the cool kids like @ac_ “She’s a beaut Clarke!”
View attachment 161955View attachment 161956View attachment 161957View attachment 161958View attachment 161959View attachment 161960View attachment 161961
Looks so much better
 
  • Like
Reactions: JMT
I hope to find out. The guy at Core 4x4 mentioned that it looks like the Currie follows the factory bend. I think that would actually be better than the JKS. It needs to be straighter on the adjustable end. I’ve got some pics of the Currie from another member and I’m going to compare with the Core when/if I get it installed.
From what I have read, Currie is the only trackbar that clears the rear when combined with the mods you have.
 
Hey guys,

I'm new to the Jeep world. Oh, I had a 2004 Cherokee once, but got my first Wrangler TJ in December, 2016, and that's a whole new world. I think I am addicted. Anyone else have that problem around here? LOL. Anyway, this Jeep was stock and low miles, 46K. I looked for six months before I happened on it and was the first to call! Anyway, I want to run 33x12.5r17 or r15. I installed a RE BB last week. Great first project. Supposed to be 2" but in reality the front turned out to be 1 1/4" and rear 1 3/4".

That said, I have three questions. First, what is your opinion on 15's vs 17's? I am not planning to do any heavy wheelin, though I do get offroad weekly. I have gravitated to r17's because I think it might look meaner and tire sizes seem to be going away from 15's. The rims I found that I like are 17x9 Pro Comps but I'm sure there are sill some 15's out there I would like.

Second, the person at Quadratec said all I need to do to run 33's is add a flat fender kit such as Bushwacker or Xenon. I asked about a 1.25' body lift and that seemed frowned upon. I was thinking I may not have to do the fenders if I did the body lift, and the body lift is much cheaper. What are your thoughts? And while your at it, what are your thoughts on Bushwacker vs Xenon as well as 4" or 6" width, keeping in mind the 33's coming on 17x9 wheels with backspacing of 4.75"?

Third, should I do the tires and wheels first and see if they can fit under stock flares? Or do the flares or body lift first because if I don't I'll get myself in trouble? I appreciate feedback from all you guys with years of experience. Here's a pic of the Jeep with the 2"BB ...View attachment 11839
They always look so innocent when we first get them. Then we "do things" to them. <insert evil laugh>