You're that far into it, pull it off and have it cut, you'll get much better engagement
I don't know that you can SEE the bevel. And I didn't know about it either until I'd read it on here a while ago. But it's good to know and this way you don't ruin your flywheel.
The surface of a TJ flywheel is slightly convex and you can feel it as you clean, so the FSM recommends against having it turned. If you do it will decrease your clutch life.
 
I did buy a clutch fork, glad I did. I may need a pivot bolt. About to go install the clutch.

...

A word of caution if you're replacing the pivot ball- apply your preferred brand of penetrating oil to the threads. The threads are accessible on the outside of the case on the passenger side. I learned this one the hard way and sheared the stud. I was able to drill through the remnants and tap the hole without installing a thread insert.
 
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A word of caution if you're replacing the pivot ball- apply your preferred brand of penetrating oil to the threads. The threads are accessible on the outside of the case on the passenger side. I learned this one the hard way and sheared the stud. I was able to drill through the remnants and tap the hole without installing a thread insert.
Thanks for the heads up. I’ll look at the pivot ball and decide if I’m going to replace it. If so I’ll douse it in Kroil. Great advice!
 
Pics or it didn’t happen, but I got the old pilot bearing out with the handy tool @starkey480 alerted me to. Took literally about 1-2 minutes. Installed the new one, cleaned the OEM flywheel, installed the new clutch, pressure plate, and clutch cover. Got started cleaning out the transmission to install the new clutch fork and throw out bearing. Should be clear sailing from here if I can get the splines lined up. One thing I was wondering was if I‘m supposed to put some RTV at the top of the transmission where it ties in to the engine above the dust cover? There are remnants of RTV on the transmission edge.
 
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Pics or it didn’t happen, but I got the old pivot bearing out with the handy tool @starkey480 alerted me to. Took literally about 1-2 minutes. Installed the new one, cleaned the OEM flywheel, installed the new clutch, pressure plate, and clutch cover. Got started cleaning out the transmission to install the new clutch fork and throw out bearing. Should be clear sailing from here if I can get the splines lined up. One thing I was wondering was if I‘m supposed to put some RTV at the top of the transmission where it ties in to the engine above the dust cover? There are remnants of RTV on the transmission edge.
Does your transmission have a vent on the top like mine? It seems like the perfect time to add a extention and run a breather to the engine bay if it does.
 
Does your transmission have a vent on the top like mine? It seems like the perfect time to add a extention and run a breather to the engine bay if it does.
Yes, it does, and I remember a few years back a member from Florida mentioning this. Good time for sure. I think I’ll pick up an extension, Keep any water out of the TCase if I happen to be real stupid one day and drive that deep. 😁

EDIT: I think I’ll just get one long hose and do it that way.
 
I was just reading the FSM on the front output seal. All you do is pry it out. No need to crack the case. I have one on order and one from another 231. I’ll just wait for the new one, get that installed and see if I’ve solved my leak.

EDIT: Well crap, the new one doesn’t arrive till Monday.
 
I was just reading the FSM on the front output seal. All you do is pry it out. No need to crack the case. I have one on order and one from another 231. I’ll just wait for the new one, get that installed and see if I’ve solved my leak.

EDIT: Well crap, the new one doesn’t arrive till Monday.
I feel your pain. I just spent about 3 weeks with the rig up on jack stands waiting for one part...
 
Pics or it didn’t happen, but I got the old pivot bearing out with the handy tool @starkey480 alerted me to. Took literally about 1-2 minutes. Installed the new one, cleaned the OEM flywheel, installed the new clutch, pressure plate, and clutch cover. Got started cleaning out the transmission to install the new clutch fork and throw out bearing. Should be clear sailing from here if I can get the splines lined up. One thing I was wondering was if I‘m supposed to put some RTV at the top of the transmission where it ties in to the engine above the dust cover? There are remnants of RTV on the transmission edge.
That little puller does work!
 
I feel your pain. I just spent about 3 weeks with the rig up on jack stands waiting for one part...
Maybe I’ll install the Savvy gas tank skid while it’s down. I hope there’s not much gas in the tank.
 
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The transmission jack makes it simple.
I’ll need helping hands to lift it out of the old skid and place in the new.
Say, what’s the method for detaching the fuel line at the fuel pump? I had trouble last time and broke the head off the pump.
 
I’ll need helping hands to lift it out of the old skid and place in the new.
Say, what’s the method for detaching the fuel line at the fuel pump? I had trouble last time and broke the head off the pump.

You need a fuel line release tool.

https://www.harborfreight.com/4-pie...ent=&msclkid=521808dde18d1e81fa0268e24d65a38f
1614785789917.webp
 
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I’ll need helping hands to lift it out of the old skid and place in the new.
Say, what’s the method for detaching the fuel line at the fuel pump? I had trouble last time and broke the head off the pump.
If memory serves me correct, I disconnected the line upstream a bit, near the upper control arms.
 
I don’t recall the connectors being like that, but I watched the whole video anyway. I’m ready to do a 2004 TJ gas tank drop!