97 Sahara Restoration & Build

Started mocking up where some of the components will go on the new inner fender. Didn't make it very far.
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10 months of busting knuckles I finally drove this thing around town. Here are the last few pictures from this phase of the project. I still have a lot of things I want to do, and need to do so this won't be the end of it.

Installing new marker lights and wiring them up.
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Inspected the cylinder walls and cam lobes for wear and they look great. New lifters, a thorough cleaning, primer and a fresh coat of paint. New thermostat and housing, water pump, timing set installed. She cleans up nice.

This part of the project has been really fun for me. I learned how to teardown and rebuild a motor when I was younger but never really got the chance to. Between YouTube,this forum and it's members, and had a lot of help. Thanks!
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Reactions: Squatch, DetroitTJ, bedhed and 2 others
Very cool. I agree with others, in that it's refreshing to see things being repaired and not parted out or crushed. Most especially with the amount of rust that you dove into. Nice job, MT. I'll be following along with it's progress.
 
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DetroitTJ said:
Looks great!

I'm going to paint my tub and fenders with Rhinoliner in the next couple of weeks. Do you have any tips or tricks?
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Surface preparation is critical. Make sure you get anything oily and waxy off the surface you are painting on. Scuff the surface really well, and then clean it with acetone or some type of alcohol using lint free rags. If you have any rust, especially surface rust or bubbly paint, it's important to sand that area down really well. Bed liners are forgiving if you have surface imperfections from a visual perspective, but rust, wax, oil/grease. and any loose paint will only cause the bed liner to lift away from the surface and crack. If you end up sanding an area down to bare metal its important after cleaning it to apply some self etching primer. The primer needs to be self etching for it to work properly on bare metal. If you have an area that is hard to get to as far as cleaning, or scuffing U-POL makes an adhesion promoter called GRIP #4, and I'm sure you can find other brands that will help with adhesion.

Take your time and mask everything off that you don't want over spray or roller splatter on. I found that blue painters tape worked well enough for me but you can also get the better grade (yellow) from Advance Auto or Pep boys or what ever you have in your area. With bed liner I think the blue painters tape works just fine. I used a mix of cheap plastic drop cloth and brown construction paper found in your local hardware stores in the pain section to mask larger areas off.

I'm not sure about the application of Rhino liner but Raptor liner recommended allowing 1 hour between coats to allow the carrier to flash off. I did two decently thick coats. I also removed the painters tape while the bed liner was tacky. You don't want that stuff to dry with the painters tape still on, it will either crack and lift off the surface or you will have tape stuck under the paint which will eventually lift and crack.

Raptor Liner recommended allowing the liner to fully cure ( 4 days I think) before heavy use. Hope it works out for you!
 
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