A lesson learned—keep it light and nimble!

For the record, I'm a convert now. These made the job so much easier. A clean and straight cut every time. Also, a lot less flying metal when doing so. I was genuinely impressed with this tool!

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Yep I bought that toolset already in anticipation of my installing the rockers. Still have a TON of stuff I need to get done before I'm ready to install them.
 
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I know I am still 4 months behind (to the day) but I HAD to say something about this picture while I work on catching up. This picture is inspirational. I doubt that TJ was that clean when it rolled off the assembly like. It truly shows how well things can be done if you take your time an do it right. A lot of us don't spend the time we need, I know many times I rushed so I could have my rig ready to drive to work on Monday, and sometimes that's unavoidable when you DD your Jeep. Now that I work from home I want to revisit things I have done now that I see how good you have done them. Fantastic work!
Bet there are more than $5,000 in upgrades in that photo. You can be sure that it didn't look that good from the factory.

Are the locking hubs worth $1,500+ they go for?? Have had locking hubs on my previous 4x4's and like the ability to freewheel should something go wrong in the diff. Lunch box locker is cheap and would go a ways to justify the cost of the hubs. Still would have to drive a few million miles to justify them for gas savings.
 
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Bet there are more than $5,000 in upgrades in that photo. You can be sure that it didn't look that good from the factory.

Are the locking hubs worth $1,500+ they go for?? Have had locking hubs on my previous 4x4's and like the ability to freewheel should something go wrong in the diff. Lunch box locker is cheap and would go a ways to justify the cost of the hubs. Still would have to drive a few million miles to justify them for gas savings.
The locking hubs solve a problem. If you don't have the problem, it doesn't need solving.
 
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Yep I bought that toolset already in anticipation of my installing the rockers. Still have a TON of stuff I need to get done before I'm ready to install them.
You've got serious makeover going on. One step at a time, and it will get done! (y)
 
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Are the locking hubs worth $1,500+ they go for?? Have had locking hubs on my previous 4x4's and like the ability to freewheel should something go wrong in the diff. Lunch box locker is cheap and would go a ways to justify the cost of the hubs. Still would have to drive a few million miles to justify them for gas savings.
Goes to show how ridiculously overpriced things are getting. When I got mine, it was a little over $900. As for the value, per @mrblaine, they are only worth it if you have a problem. The factory hub bearing is remarkably simple, reliable, and cheap. With the no spin hub kit you get more complexity, no fuel savings, but the hub doesn't spin.
 
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If this is a dumb question, I'll apologize up front! There are 4 large flat washers included in the Savvy rocker hardware kit. Anyone know where those go? FWIW, I looked at the old instructions, which shows 6 fender washers, but it doesn't show where they actually go. :unsure:
 
If this is a dumb question, I'll apologize up front! There are 4 large flat washers included in the Savvy rocker hardware kit. Anyone know where those go? FWIW, I looked at the old instructions, which shows 6 fender washers, but it doesn't show where they actually go. :unsure:
Use the large fender washers any place where you didn't use a nutsert and there is just sheet metal on the inside. Like the forward bolt that goes into the stock fender. There is also a hole on some that goes up into the torque box that hits the factory hole at the back end. Put a fender washer on that and skip the nutsert.

FYI, I have heavy fender washers I prefer in those places if you want a few.
 
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Use the large fender washers any place where you didn't use a nutsert and there is just sheet metal on the inside. Like the forward bolt that goes into the stock fender. There is also a hole on some that goes up into the torque box that hits the factory hole at the back end. Put a fender washer on that and skip the nutsert.

FYI, I have heavy fender washers I prefer in those places if you want a few.
I definitely would be interested in them, but it's not something worth bothering you over. I'll source some local and install them in the appropriate places, now that I know where that is. Thanks!
 
I'd prefer not to live with the gap between the stock flares and the fender, when installing the Savvy rocker guards. Anyone have suggestions on the fix here? My fear is it involves cutting the flares!

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I had to notch the flares when I installed wheel to wheel sliders. Not sure if anyone has tried making spacers or something for the flares.
 
I'd prefer not to live with the gap between the stock flares and the fender, when installing the Savvy rocker guards. Anyone have suggestions on the fix here? My fear is it involves cutting the flares!

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There is almost nothing you will do that will look better than the gap. I trim on the inner lip that faces inward to the top of the backer and call it good. If you notch the flare, that lower end will never be tight to the backer or hasn't for all the ones I've seen. The obvious answer is a piece of ABS that is 3/16" thick that goes behind the flare everywhere it is on the body. Getting the edge of that and the flare to line up nicely is a nightmare.
 
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I know that is gunna bug the heck out of you until you figure out a solution.
I wish 🤞 you the best in figuring it out and hope it's a simple solution.
It certainly will bother me. If Blaine hasn't solved it, I don't believe I will. That said, I'm not giving up yet!
 
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