I've always though that trimming the back wall off and reattaching it would work, but the challenge is not making it look like ass. A good start would be identifying the material. Based on that, you can choose the joining strategy. Finally get some junk flares to practice with. I've gotten over the gap, but I have black on black on black... So it's not as noticable.
I thought about this but until you wrote it I never visualized a solution. Bonding the spacer to the flare, maybe countersunk fasteners from the inside or clamping sections with epoxy against a rigid backer to keep it straight then trimming, then painting since mine are bed lined like that yellow Jeep you've seen recently. Thanks for the inspiration, obviously just spitball but I think I'm gonna try this. The gap isn't terrible to clean but it would be fun to find a solution. I'll do a thread if it works.
The plastic will be identified by a code on the inside of the flare. They are not a readily bonding type.
The gap has always bothered me for the first 15 minutes after I put the flares back on then I go back to ignoring it or punishing myself for hours trying to fix it knowing full well I'll never get it right.
I've contemplated taking a flare in and having our laser guy do a few samples of aluminum that would be an inch or so wide and follow the exact outline of the flare with the mounting holes. Then I recall how flares are not always the same based on installing many and not having them hit the same dirt line that the previous flare made and then how much material that would burn up to just get a 3/16" spacer. Nothing about it has ever given me a warm fuzzy.
then they'll cry it's silver. and your correct about the material it'd take to burn those forms.
We powder coat rockers and other aluminum bits. No reason the trims couldn't be done the same. Or, powder coat prime and paint to match.
having that option available out of the box would make them considerably more marketable.
You've obviously never sold products that are powder coated. First you have to protect the finish from the shop back to where you are going to package and store them. Then you have to design packaging that prevents any scratch, scuff, or blemish. You have to inspect each article to ensure it is blemish free before it gets packed. Coated items are best packed in their protective boxes and stored for shipping that way or shop wear ruins them.
