A recipe for an affordable but quality 2.5" lift

Thanks to @CodaMan for laying the ground work for this one as he inspired me to write this thread as a resource for others.

The issue is that I see people constantly posting about purchasing the OME 2.5" lift, Rough County 2.5" lifts, or others "lift kits". In reality, I think you can save a lot of money and get better quality parts if you piece together your own lift. The problem I have with the OME lift is that the newer shocks they switched to years ago ride terrible in comparison to the shocks they used to use. Rough Country is the same way in that the shocks they include in their kits are absolutely terrible.

For the most part, springs are springs, but the shocks are really what's going to affect your ride quality. That being said, below you'll find a perfect recipe for a 2" lift that uses quality parts and won't break the bank. In addition, this setup shouldn't require a transfer case drop in most cases.


With the addition of a Savvy 1.25" body lift and a 1" Savvy motor mount lift, you can easily turn this lift into a 3.25" lift and set yourself up for a tummy tuck.

Hopefully this thread serves as a resource to others. You're much better off piecing your own lift together as oppose to buying a "kit" in most cases.

Hello all...

I'm new to Jeeps and off-roading in general. I have a completely stock 2005 Sport with 51k miles. It was involved in a fender bender prior to my purchase so it needs minor body work. The coolest part is it's a right hand drive :). I live in SoCal and don't have plans for any major off-roading; just fun dirt/fire trails. I would like to keep my stock 15" steel wheels but add 31" tires.

I am not familiar with lifts other than the leveling strut/spring assembly I installed on my F150. Frankly, I am not eager to lift the Jeep unless I have to. Many posts here say a 31" tire will work just fine on a stock suspension except under major articulation. I would like to start with the new tires only and see where it goes. However, I do want new shocks to help with the rough ride. I am interested in the Rancho RS5000X mentioned by Chris. Their spec'd for 0-2". Does that mean that installing those shocks alone, without longer springs, will keep the stock height? If so, I think I will obtain both, a better ride and room for a future 2" lift if needed.

Thought/advice? THANK YOU!!!
 
Hello all...

I'm new to Jeeps and off-roading in general. I have a completely stock 2005 Sport with 51k miles. It was involved in a fender bender prior to my purchase so it needs minor body work. The coolest part is it's a right hand drive :). I live in SoCal and don't have plans for any major off-roading; just fun dirt/fire trails. I would like to keep my stock 15" steel wheels but add 31" tires.

I am not familiar with lifts other than the leveling strut/spring assembly I installed on my F150. Frankly, I am not eager to lift the Jeep unless I have to. Many posts here say a 31" tire will work just fine on a stock suspension except under major articulation. I would like to start with the new tires only and see where it goes. However, I do want new shocks to help with the rough ride. I am interested in the Rancho RS5000X mentioned by Chris. Their spec'd for 0-2". Does that mean that installing those shocks alone, without longer springs, will keep the stock height? If so, I think I will obtain both, a better ride and room for a future 2" lift if needed.

Thought/advice? THANK YOU!!!

Yes, installing those shocks alone without lift springs will retain the stock height.
 
Thanks to @CodaMan for laying the ground work for this one as he inspired me to write this thread as a resource for others.

The issue is that I see people constantly posting about purchasing the OME 2.5" lift, Rough County 2.5" lifts, or others "lift kits". In reality, I think you can save a lot of money and get better quality parts if you piece together your own lift. The problem I have with the OME lift is that the newer shocks they switched to years ago ride terrible in comparison to the shocks they used to use. Rough Country is the same way in that the shocks they include in their kits are absolutely terrible.

For the most part, springs are springs, but the shocks are really what's going to affect your ride quality. That being said, below you'll find a perfect recipe for a 2" lift that uses quality parts and won't break the bank. In addition, this setup shouldn't require a transfer case drop in most cases.


With the addition of a Savvy 1.25" body lift and a 1" Savvy motor mount lift, you can easily turn this lift into a 3.25" lift and set yourself up for a tummy tuck.

Hopefully this thread serves as a resource to others. You're much better off piecing your own lift together as oppose to buying a "kit" in most cases.

Good morning,

I'm new to Jeeps and not yet well versed in their setup. I am very interested in this setup. Will it negatively affect suspension geometry? Any premature wear on other parts that I should be aware of?

Thank you
 
Good morning,

I'm new to Jeeps and not yet well versed in their setup. I am very interested in this setup. Will it negatively affect suspension geometry? Any premature wear on other parts that I should be aware of?

Thank you

No, it’s such a mild setup that the impact on geometry will be minimal, especially if you have a long wheelbase model!
 
No, it’s such a mild setup that the impact on geometry will be minimal, especially if you have a long wheelbase model!

Thank you. No long wheelbase, just a Sport. Do you know if I need to do anything different since I have a RHD model.
 
Thank you. No long wheelbase, just a Sport. Do you know if I need to do anything different since I have a RHD model.

I can’t say for sure since I’ve never worked on a RHD model but I don’t think so. I think the only place you’d run into an issue would be the track bars perhaps. I think the RHD requires specific track bars.
 
I can’t say for sure since I’ve never worked on a RHD model but I don’t think so. I think the only place you’d run into an issue would be the track bars perhaps. I think the RHD requires specific track bars.

You are correct, the front track bars are reversed. The setup you recommended in the original post does not affect the front track bars, correct?
 
You are correct, the front track bars are reversed. The setup you recommended in the original post does not affect the front track bars, correct?

The track bar might be off 1/4” or so. Not enough to cause any issues or even be noticeable. You could get an adjustable track bar but you don’t necessarily need one.
 
Although I saw many negative posts about the quality of the Rancho shocks, I took the advice on this post and ordered them anyway. I will confirm, the negative posts have some truth. The weld/crimp on the tube of all 4 were extremely rough and crooked and the paint job is a joke. One of the shocks bad to the point it looked like it was used. Most likely, it was a returned item given that Rancho put a yellow sticker on its box that says "new stock." The rear ones didn't even have a tie keeping it compressed during shipping. It's just very disappointing and frustrating that you go out of your way to buy American made products only to see their mediocre quality. Some would say it's just cosmetic but if Rancho thinks the shoddy cosmetic stuff is acceptable, I don't have much confidence that their ride/build quality is any better. I am going to install them to test them out anyway. I hope I don't regret not getting KYBs that I've had in 2 of my trucks.

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I have been following the recipe that was listed out for a 2.5" lift. Using the Rough Country Springs instead of the Pro Comp since they were not available. The RC springs are the 653 Spring Kit that list a 2.5" lift. I have replaced the springs on the rear and then started to add the Rancho shocks. I know that the suspension has not been driven on or cycled and that the Jeep is still nose down since I haven't started on the front lift yet. However, it appears that the shocks might be too short? Using the Rancho RS55240 for the rear shocks 0-2 inch lift.

The weight of the Jeep is on the jack stands and the jack is not lifting up on the rear of the Jeep at this time. It is a soft top so lighter than a hard top. The Ranchos are slightly longer than the originals that I pulled off. The picture that shows the shock and lower mount: the shock is free and not binding or braced against the lower mount, it's just sitting there for reference.

Anyone that has followed this plan have the same issues? Just want to make sure that I put the right shocks on.
Thanks for any advice.

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That being said, below you'll find a perfect recipe for a 2" lift that uses quality parts and won't break the bank.

So for my 2005 LJR do I need anything other than springs, shocks, and track bar relocation bracket? I'm looking at the OME HD 2" springs with the recommended Rancho shocks and they look way more affordable than any kit. (I already have a Savvy body lift and a Brown Dog motor mount lift sitting in the garage.)
 
Many will say the spring doesn't matter.

I went with Rancho's 2.5" springs.
Front 615B-E
Rear 616B-E

Other 2-2.5" spring options with dual rate springs are Rock Jock, JKS, Synergy.

The correct RS5000XL for a 2.5" lift are
Front RS55239
Rear RS55241

The correct RS9000XL adjustable for a 2.5" lift are
Front RS999239
Rear RS999241

Mine is not a budget 2.5 though.
 
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Many will say the spring doesn't matter.

I went with Rancho's 2.5" springs.
Front 615B-E
Rear 616B-E

Other 2-2.5" spring options with dual rate springs are Rock Jock, JKS, Synergy.

The correct RS5000XL for a 2.5" lift are
Front RS55239
Rear RS55241

The correct RS9000XL adjustable for a 2.5" lift are
Front RS999239
Rear RS999241

Mine is not a budget 2.5 though.

What tire size are you running with that setup?
 
285/75R16 KO3 and Duratrac previously. Rear rides a bit higher (1/4 - 1/2") with the soft top versus the hard top.
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As I said, not a budget 2.5, though I did run that for a long time (20 years) with 255/85 R16 TAKM and 285/75R16 TAKO. I didn't have any specific issues running that with the stock skid aside from some rust caused by water trapped between the skid and frame.

I run a full set of adjustable control arms, adjustable front and rear trackbars and in order to mount the Barnes skid closer up went to a DC driveshaft. I have a steeper caster which steers and tracks better.

You do need to adjust bump stops appropriately. I am currently running some Spidertrax 1.25" spacers as I feel that rides a little better in the highway ruts out here. Snow chains do bad things to pavement. It will rub now a little at full stuff right now with front sway bars disconnected. Not enough to cause issue, but they do touch the flairs. I'm not really trying to take it rock crawling anymore but played a bit on Fins and Things when I was in Moab last month.