A recipe for an affordable but quality 2.5" lift

[Chris]

If he is lucky enough not to get vibrations why does he need an SYE to do it right? Surely that depends on how you define right?

My definition of doing it “right” would mean that at the bare minimum we keep the skid plate in the factory location. If it has to be dropped, that would IMHO be a step in the wrong direction.

All of the TJs I’ve had with 2.5” lifts and a MML required lowering the transfer case at least 1”.

The more you lift it with fixed length control arms, the more things change, even at only 2.5” of lift. Your wheelbase is going to get shorter for one. While it may not be the end of the world, it’s nice to be able to put your wheelbase back where it belongs.

 

[UKTJ]

My definition of doing it “right” would mean that at the bare minimum we keep the skid plate in the factory location. If it has to be dropped, that would IMHO be a step in the wrong direction.

All of the TJs I’ve had with 2.5” lifts and a MML required lowering the transfer case at least 1”.

The more you lift it with fixed length control arms, the more things change, even at only 2.5” of lift. Your wheelbase is going to get shorter for one. While it may not be the end of the world, it’s nice to be able to put your wheelbase back where it belongs.

If there are vibes I agree completely little point raising and then dropping the transfer case skid. But from what I have read on here there are plenty who have not had vibes. My personal thinking, and I plan to do this myself, is to do the lift and then see what transpires.

 

[Chris]

If there are vibes I agree completely little point raising and then dropping the transfer case skid. But from what I have read on here there are plenty who have not had vibes. My personal thinking, and I plan to do this myself, is to do the lift and then see what transpires.

Maybe some will get lucky and not get vibes. I wasn’t that lucky. I also still believe that even without vibes, would you not still want the ability to adjust your wheelbase and caster back to factory specs? I understand doing things in stages as funds permit, but my end goal would always be adjustable control arms and a SYE, even at only 2.5” of height.

 

[TJoe]

Maybe some will get lucky and not get vibes. I wasn’t that lucky. I also still believe that even without vibes, would you not still want the ability to adjust your wheelbase and caster back to factory specs? I understand doing things in stages as funds permit, but my end goal would always be adjustable control arms and a SYE, even at only 2.5” of height.

I think that's a fair sentiment. I'm relatively new to the world of lifts, so just to be clear, I don't NEED an SYE and adjustable control arms to drive safely on the road without too much discomfort, right? I would certainly love to fine tune it with the necessary parts, but as you said, funds are limited so I'm taking it one (or a few) step(s) at a time. The only thing I've done to my suspension so far is install new shocks.

 

[Chris]

I think that's a fair sentiment. I'm relatively new to the world of lifts, so just to be clear, I don't NEED an SYE and adjustable control arms to drive safely on the road without too much discomfort, right? I would certainly love to fine tune it with the necessary parts, but as you said, funds are limited so I'm taking it one (or a few) step(s) at a time. The only thing I've done to my suspension so far is install new shocks.

No, you don’t NEED them. I would just say that it should be the end game. Do it in stages as you get money, but in the end I think the goal should be a SYE and adjustable control arms for the reasons mentioned above. Again though, you don’t NEED them.

 

[UKTJ]

I think that's a fair sentiment. I'm relatively new to the world of lifts, so just to be clear, I don't NEED an SYE and adjustable control arms to drive safely on the road without too much discomfort, right? I would certainly love to fine tune it with the necessary parts, but as you said, funds are limited so I'm taking it one (or a few) step(s) at a time. The only thing I've done to my suspension so far is install new shocks.

Depending on what tyres you are looking to put on after the lift, assuming you do not get vibes, you may want to put a regear ahead of SYE etc.

 

[TJoe]

Depending on what tyres you are looking to put on after the lift, assuming you do not get vibes, you may want to put a regear ahead of SYE etc.

I already have 31s and I'm not really planning one going any bigger with my little 4-banger.

 

[Bighammer]

So the Pro Comp springs that @CodaMan suggests with this “kit” have been discontinued. (The front ones anyway). So in searching for something else, I came across these from Rough Country. They advertise them as 2.5” lift.

Since my Unlimited is a bit heavier than a standard TJ, (and I’ve got aftermarket bumpers, & will be adding a winch, etc) could I implement the method described in this thread without concerns about the springs being 2.5” instead of the 2”? I feel like it’s possibly only going up 2” with the RC springs. Anyone have them? Thoughts?

 

[red02tj]

@72afr I'm in a similar boat I've also already purchased the Rancho 0-2" shocks mentioned in the first post. Did the rear OME springs work ok with those Rancho shocks? I'm trying to decide on pro comp up front and something else in the rear to save some money.
I was thinking about the BDS springs but I've seen reports that the rear on those is actually around 2.5" which I'm worried will be too much for the shocks I've got. Thanks

I was in the same situation. Ended up finding them at my local Jeep shop, they had several of the Procomp/Rancho pairings in stock. Try your local 4x4 or give my shop in ATL a call and see if they will ship. https://fortec4x4.com

 

[UKTJ]

So the Pro Comp springs that @CodaMan suggests with this “kit” have been discontinued. (The front ones anyway). So in searching for something else, I came across these from Rough Country. They advertise them as 2.5” lift.

Since my Unlimited is a bit heavier than a standard TJ, (and I’ve got aftermarket bumpers, & will be adding a winch, etc) could I implement the method described in this thread without concerns about the springs being 2.5” instead of the 2”? I feel like it’s possibly only going up 2” with the RC springs. Anyone have them? Thoughts?




View attachment 291506

I had a quick look at the springs and shocks resource thread, if the info on the RC front spring included there relates to the spring in this kit I would be wary of using that.

The RC 2.5" front spring is shown as having a free length of 21.00", that is really long for a spring giving a quoted 2.5" lift. By comparison the ProComp EXP55297 has a length of only 17.87". To get to a 2.5" lift that means the RC spring has a really low spring rate. There is no spring rate quoted for the RC, but the ProComp mentioned above has a quoted spring rate of 170lb per inch and as the RC spring needs to compress almost twice as much as the ProComp to yield a 2.5" lift it suggests a spring rate of sub 100lb. That means even a little extra weight is going to result in a significantly reduced lift versus the quoted 2.5".

But, lots of assumptions in this, so I would be checking the free length and spring rate of the RC springs in that kit before ordering.

 

[Bighammer]

I had a quick look at the springs and shocks resource thread, if the info on the RC front spring included there relates to the spring in this kit I would be wary of using that.

The RC 2.5" front spring is shown as having a free length of 21.00", that is really long for a spring giving a quoted 2.5" lift. By comparison the ProComp EXP55297 has a length of only 17.87". To get to a 2.5" lift that means the RC spring has a really low spring rate. There is no spring rate quoted for the RC, but the ProComp mentioned above has a quoted spring rate of 170lb per inch and as the RC spring needs to compress almost twice as much as the ProComp to yield a 2.5" lift it suggests a spring rate of sub 100lb. That means even a little extra weight is going to result in a significantly reduced lift versus the quoted 2.5".

But, lots of assumptions in this, so I would be checking the free length and spring rate of the RC springs in that kit before ordering.

Wow, thanks for pointing that out. I wasn’t thinking about that aspect, still trying to learn this stuff

 

[UKTJ]

Wow, thanks for pointing that out. I wasn’t thinking about that aspect, still trying to learn this stuff

As I said, that is assuming the info in the table applying to the RC springs. I would call up RC and ask for info on the free length and spring rate of the springs in the kit. Some manufacturers seem unhappy releasing that info, but hopefully they will tell you. If they won't give the spring rate ask them what sprung weight per corner they use as the basis for quoting the lift at 2.5". It is the same question phrased differently, but maybe they will share that.

 

[Ovaltine]

The low spring rate leads to a longer free length coil for a specific advertised lift height. Depending on how you look at it though, this could be advantageous since you will get more travel out of the spring before it unseats.

Of course, if your Jeep is heavy with parts, gear, people, etc. you may sag more. I would say do some research on how much lift other Jeeps net based on their set up to see if it’s a no go for your needs. Don’t forget spacers can get you to where you want to end up if you’re not far off.

 

[Vinsane]

Finally got the adjustable track bar. My question is , do these metal 'sleeves' just sit loose in there? They slip out

pretty easy.

 

[OldBuzzard]

Those metal sleeves get pinched tight when you torque down the bolt. The bearing is the metal ball they fit into.

 

[murphy350]

Thanks to @CodaMan for laying the ground work for this one as he inspired me to write this thread as a resource for others.

The issue is that I see people constantly posting about purchasing the OME 2.5" lift, Rough County 2.5" lifts, or others "lift kits". In reality, I think you can save a lot of money and get better quality parts if you piece together your own lift. The problem I have with the OME lift is that the newer shocks they switched to years ago ride terrible in comparison to the shocks they used to use. Rough Country is the same way in that the shocks they include in their kits are absolutely terrible.

For the most part, springs are springs, but the shocks are really what's going to affect your ride quality. That being said, below you'll find a perfect recipe for a 2" lift that uses quality parts and won't break the bank. In addition, this setup shouldn't require a transfer case drop in most cases.

• Rancho RS5000X Shocks 0-2" (2 Front) — RS55128
• Rancho RS5000X Shocks 0-2" (2 Rear) — RS55240
• Pro Comp 2" Springs (Front) — EXP55297
• Pro Comp 2" Springs (Rear) — EXP55298
• OME Rear Track Bar Reloaction Bracket — ARB FKWTJ02
• Rokmen 1/2" Aluminum Body Lift
• Daystar.75" Spacers — KJ09108BK (note: only used above front springs for leveling, if you don't care about being level, you don't need these)

With the addition of a Savvy 1.25" body lift and a 1" Savvy motor mount lift, you can easily turn this lift into a 3.25" lift and set yourself up for a tummy tuck.

Hopefully this thread serves as a resource to others. You're much better off piecing your own lift together as oppose to buying a "kit" in most cases.

Great resource.

What is your recommendation for a front track bar and bump stops?

 

[Chris]

Great resource.

What is your recommendation for a front track bar and bump stops?

Hockey pucks for bump stops and for the track bar JKS would be a good choice.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005TTZO9O/?tag=wranglerorg-20

 

[ThatOverlandTJ]

Thanks to @CodaMan for laying the ground work for this one as he inspired me to write this thread as a resource for others.

The issue is that I see people constantly posting about purchasing the OME 2.5" lift, Rough County 2.5" lifts, or others "lift kits". In reality, I think you can save a lot of money and get better quality parts if you piece together your own lift. The problem I have with the OME lift is that the newer shocks they switched to years ago ride terrible in comparison to the shocks they used to use. Rough Country is the same way in that the shocks they include in their kits are absolutely terrible.

For the most part, springs are springs, but the shocks are really what's going to affect your ride quality. That being said, below you'll find a perfect recipe for a 2" lift that uses quality parts and won't break the bank. In addition, this setup shouldn't require a transfer case drop in most cases.

• Rancho RS5000X Shocks 0-2" (2 Front) — RS55128
• Rancho RS5000X Shocks 0-2" (2 Rear) — RS55240
• Pro Comp 2" Springs (Front) — EXP55297
• Pro Comp 2" Springs (Rear) — EXP55298
• OME Rear Track Bar Reloaction Bracket — ARB FKWTJ02
• Rokmen 1/2" Aluminum Body Lift
• Daystar.75" Spacers — KJ09108BK (note: only used above front springs for leveling, if you don't care about being level, you don't need these)

With the addition of a Savvy 1.25" body lift and a 1" Savvy motor mount lift, you can easily turn this lift into a 3.25" lift and set yourself up for a tummy tuck.

Hopefully this thread serves as a resource to others. You're much better off piecing your own lift together as oppose to buying a "kit" in most cases.

Hello! I just got a TJ and found this thread and was thinking of putting something similar together using OME 2" springs and a Metalcloak rear adjustable trackbar. Then running the 1.25 Savvy Body lift for 3.25" lift. Would this work pretty well?

 

[Chris]

Hello! I just got a TJ and found this thread and was thinking of putting something similar together using OME 2" springs and a Metalcloak rear adjustable trackbar. Then running the 1.25 Savvy Body lift for 3.25" lift. Would this work pretty well?

Yes, it would. However I’d advice against using a Metalcloak track bar. Their heim joint design has a lot of well known issues.

 

[ThatOverlandTJ]

Yes, it would. However I’d advice against using a Metalcloak track bar. Their heim joint design has a lot of well known issues.

Oh okay. Are there better track bars you'd recommend? Would I need a transfer case drop kit?