Bump. Anyone have any options on this?I’m going with OME 934/949 since I have an LJ with a hardtop, and going to be hanging a snow plow off the front in the winter and bumper/winch combo in the summer. Given the 934 fronts are for the v8 ZJ, I assume I am going to get more like 2.5” of lift maybe even slightly more… do you guys still recommend the Rancho 0-2” shocks (since they run long), or if I’m in the 2.5”+ range, should I go for the 2-3” Rancho shocks?
For the fronts go with 2-3” (55239). For the rear go with the 0-2” (can’t remember the part #)Bump. Anyone have any options on this?
2” BDS springs yesI'm following a long here, but for even money, or just a bit more, why wouldn't one go with something like a 2" or 3" kit from BDS or similar?
Kits, generally, make trades on parts and quality. I'm a firm believer in piecing together something, rather than buying a kit. Of course this means one has to do a fair amount of homework before purchasing anything. Most aren't willing to do this.I'm following a long here, but for even money, or just a bit more, why wouldn't one go with something like a 2" or 3" kit from BDS or similar?
Kits, generally, make trades on parts and quality. I'm a firm believer in piecing together something, rather than buying a kit. Of course this means one has to do a fair amount of homework before purchasing anything. Most aren't willing to do this.
Shocks.Having gone through this thread, I was considering piecing together a starter lift from the recommended parts. Things I can either use or sell down the road. I decided that I want 3" and while I'll end up with a Savvy 3", that's not in the budget right now. I'm looking at the 3" kit from BDS. I ran their kit for 10 years back in 2003 and it never let me down and it seems things have improved since then. Thei kit includes the springs, their NX2 shocks, JKS discos, relocation bracket and hardware.
I'm not sure I could buy better parts for less. What are you seeing that you'd swap out?
BDS Suspension (I can't seem to link directly to the 3" option.)
Maybe I should start a different thread on this, because it's straying a bit off topic...
Shocks.
You’ll get vibes at 3” too, so you’ll also need an SYE and DC, which means you’ll also need rear adjustable Control Arms, and at that height I’d definitely get a front adjustable track bar
@Inherited-LJ I believe the 0-2" part # is RS55240For the fronts go with 2-3” (55239). For the rear go with the 0-2” (can’t remember the part #)
Rancho RS5000X Shocks 0-2" (Front) — RS55128 |
Rancho RS5000X Shocks 0-2" (Rear) — RS55240 |
Rancho RS5000X Shocks 2.5" (Front) — RS55239 |
Rancho RS5000X Shocks 2.5" (Rear) — RS55241 |
Rancho RS5000X Shocks 3.5" (Front) — RS55255 |
Rancho RS5000X Shocks 3.5" (Rear) — RS55256 |
With the Rubicon you’ll just need the control arms to adjust the pinion.Reviews I've read put the NX in the same tier as the Rancho's recommended here. If you have different info, I'd love to see it!
I have a Rubicon, and the driveshaft is part of the budget if I end up needing it (last TJ didn't til I tucked the t-case skid). If I do need adjustable control arms, I'll buy Savvy, since that's the way I'm headed eventually. Hadn't given much thought to the trackbars... I will now, though.
Thanks.
@72afr I'm in a similar boat I've also already purchased the Rancho 0-2" shocks mentioned in the first post. Did the rear OME springs work ok with those Rancho shocks? I'm trying to decide on pro comp up front and something else in the rear to save some money.Unfortunately, I've already got the Pro Comp fronts, so I'm trying to find a worth successor for the rears..
Haven't installed them yet, unfortunately. Too many projects, not enough time.@72afr I'm in a similar boat I've also already purchased the Rancho 0-2" shocks mentioned in the first post. Did the rear OME springs work ok with those Rancho shocks? I'm trying to decide on pro comp up front and something else in the rear to save some money.
I was thinking about the BDS springs but I've seen reports that the rear on those is actually around 2.5" which I'm worried will be too much for the shocks I've got. Thanks
I can’t tell you how much lift they will give your rig in the rear. I can tell you my sons rig is 2.5” in the rear and the 2-4” Rancho shocks are too long.@JMT no worries about the rear reportedly being more like 2.5" with the 0-2" rancho shock? Thanks
Would a slip yoke eliminator be required for all this to go smoothly? They certainly don't come cheap so I just want to be sure.Thanks to @CodaMan for laying the ground work for this one as he inspired me to write this thread as a resource for others.
The issue is that I see people constantly posting about purchasing the OME 2.5" lift, Rough County 2.5" lifts, or others "lift kits". In reality, I think you can save a lot of money and get better quality parts if you piece together your own lift. The problem I have with the OME lift is that the newer shocks they switched to years ago ride terrible in comparison to the shocks they used to use. Rough Country is the same way in that the shocks they include in their kits are absolutely terrible.
For the most part, springs are springs, but the shocks are really what's going to affect your ride quality. That being said, below you'll find a perfect recipe for a 2" lift that uses quality parts and won't break the bank. In addition, this setup shouldn't require a transfer case drop in most cases.
- Rancho RS5000X Shocks 0-2" (2 Front) — RS55128
- Rancho RS5000X Shocks 0-2" (2 Rear) — RS55240
- Pro Comp 2" Springs (Front) — EXP55297
- Pro Comp 2" Springs (Rear) — EXP55298
- OME Rear Track Bar Reloaction Bracket — ARB FKWTJ02
- Rokmen 1/2" Aluminum Body Lift
- Daystar.75" Spacers — KJ09108BK (note: only used above front springs for leveling, if you don't care about being level, you don't need these)
With the addition of a Savvy 1.25" body lift and a 1" Savvy motor mount lift, you can easily turn this lift into a 3.25" lift and set yourself up for a tummy tuck.
Hopefully this thread serves as a resource to others. You're much better off piecing your own lift together as oppose to buying a "kit" in most cases.
If you want to do it right you’d have a SYE and adjustable control arms.Would a slip yoke eliminator be required for all this to go smoothly? They certainly don't come cheap so I just want to be sure.
Would foregoing of the 1/2 inch body lift reduce some strain on the drivetrain? Or even better, would a transfer case drop eliminate the need for an SYE in the case of this 2.5 inch lift?If you want to do it right you’d have a SYE and adjustable control arms.