Advice Needed: Choosing a Manual Locking Hub Conversion Kit

I think I am done chasing vibrations at the cost of handling.
I have 2 questions for those familiar with the smaller hub kit.
1 Is it complete? any thing else needed?
2 How does the smaller hub hold up? I believe Mr Blaine said they do fine in JV which is by far more extreme than my 1-2 trips in the rocks a year,if that. lol
So si there any reason not to pull the trigger on this?

Stock brakes?
 
Ya, just trying to make up my mind. Had a bit of money put away for my Fox shock install, but really not happy with my jeep right now. Thinking I will fix the essential stuff first. lol
 
I have the small Warn hub kit, and it has worked fine for the past 3 or 4 years. I bought it from a local guy that ran it on his TJ, He bought a JK and removed the kit before selling the jeep. I got it for less then 500 bucks, and it has spare hubs, bearings, seals etc. We do not have anything like JV here, but we do have some good rock runs, and have a good bit of mud. The kit has not had any issues running in those conditions. I can set caster to anything I want just about, and do not have any vibes running up to 80 mph. I you have any questions feel free to ask.
 
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Yes probably going to pull the trigger today. Seems the Ranger guys talk highly of the warn hubs used, 37780.
Are they a metal cased hub?
I believe a cheap ranger hub could be carried as a spare as well? Thanks for the info.
 
Yes probably going to pull the trigger today. Seems the Ranger guys talk highly of the warn hubs used, 37780.
Are they a metal cased hub?
I believe a cheap ranger hub could be carried as a spare as well? Thanks for the info.
If memory serves me, I believe they are metal. I could be wrong. I have not paid that much attention to them since the install. All I know is that they are the original Warn kit, with upgraded shafts and CTM joints. It is the same kit that is on Stu-offroad.
 
I think I am done chasing vibrations at the cost of handling.
I have 2 questions for those familiar with the smaller hub kit.
1 Is it complete? any thing else needed?
2 How does the smaller hub hold up? I believe Mr Blaine said they do fine in JV which is by far more extreme than my 1-2 trips in the rocks a year,if that. lol
So si there any reason not to pull the trigger on this?

Stock axle shafts? If no, the stubs included by yukon may or may not be considered upgraded compared to what you have.
 
I am assuming you are talking about the small Yukon kit?

If so, the only drawback is it comes with the same hubs as the small ford ranger. And it will extend the front end 3/4's fo an inch. I believe on both sides. It keeps the same lug pattern so you don't have to change your wheels, but if you did what I did and put a Ford 8.8 the rear end is already narrower than the front. That is the only reason why I haven't pulled the trigger on those ones.

People also don't like the small ones because the actuator is plastic on those. I would say if you go out a couple times a month and you really don't beat on it you will be fine. They come stock on the Ford Ranger pickups. '

I think the larger ones are stronger, but they do change the lug pattern so you need to change your wheels and need to decide how you are going to change the lug pattern on the rear to match. They supposedly don't extend the front axle anymore. For that reason I am looking into those for me, but if I do it, I will need to replace the rear axles to match the front and change the wheels.

If I didn't use the Ford 8.8 I would have pulled the trigger on the small ones myself if that helps at all.
 
The small hub used seems to have a good reputation with the ranger guys. I have read several rangers guys running them on 37s locked. It is much improved hub vs the stock ranger hub. Most all the ranger guys/kids I know they beat the crap out them, with alot more HP than my 4cyl TJ. Blaine said they do well in his playground which is far more demanding than mine.
 
I'm late to the party here, but maybe someone can answer this for me. I just got a great deal on the Yukon 5x4.5 kit and it's currently in transit. What brake rotors and lockouts does the kit use? I want to order spares, but I have no idea what to look up. Also, FWIW, I'm also a member of the harmonic vibration club. I regeared to 4.88 and get the resonance above 62 mph. No vibration with the front driveshaft removed. New driveshafts made it a whole lot better but didn't cure it. Adjusting the front pinion angle helps it some, but then I lose all the positive caster and the thing sucks to drive. I had considered a HP30 for the front, but I just put all the money into my current axle so why not gain the benefits of lockouts.. I don't trailer this thing so the lockouts also afford me a bit of an insurance policy in being able to drive home if I do blow up the front end.
 
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I'm late to the party here, but maybe someone can answer this for me. I just got a great deal on the Yukon 5x4.5 kit and it's currently in transit. What brake rotors and lockouts does the kit use? I want to order spares, but I have no idea what to look up. Also, FWIW, I'm also a member of the harmonic vibration club. I regeared to 4.88 and get the resonance above 62 mph. No vibration with the front driveshaft removed. New driveshafts made it a whole lot better but didn't cure it. Adjusting the front pinion angle helps it some, but then I lose all the positive caster and the thing sucks to drive. I had considered a HP30 for the front, but I just put all the money into my current axle so why not gain the benefits of lockouts.. I don't trailer this thing so the lockouts also afford me a bit of an insurance policy in being able to drive home if I do blow up the front end.
The rotor is a stock full cast rotor from a 90- early 99 Wrangler. The lock out hub is what is known as the "Ranger" hub since it the same in appearance as the stock locking hub on some of the Rangers. The center bore is opened up to just snugly fit the back section of the bearing hub and then the rotor is mounted to the hub flange with the press in lug studs.
 
The rotor is a stock full cast rotor from a 90- early 99 Wrangler. The lock out hub is what is known as the "Ranger" hub since it the same in appearance as the stock locking hub on some of the Rangers. The center bore is opened up to just snugly fit the back section of the bearing hub and then the rotor is mounted to the hub flange with the press in lug studs.
Rats..I only have a 9" lathe. Since it's a "custom" part I'd definitely want to have a spare rotor or pair kicking around. I think I know where there's a 16" I can use... Thanks for the info!