All things welding

NskLJ said:
One more tip on a hood, buy something that uses the standard clear lens so you don’t have to buy special ones. You are more apt to change it if you have a stack in your toolbox. Cheater lens on the inside for us older blind guys. I have been amazed how much better I weld when i put a new lens or change the tip in the welder.
When looking at welders a few tips. Look at the wire spool size can you use the large spool or just the small spool of wire. How much will you use it? Nice to have options. At work the crane shops would pull the spools and put inside to avoid contamination of the wire due to being on the waterfront with all the salt air.
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AirborneTexasRanger said:
Short answer: no

You're protecting your eyes from an electric arc that is extremely bright. It also emits very harmful UV rays that can burn your eyes and skin in a second

Grab a Lincoln hood from home Depot and you won't regret it

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I'm lucky to be able to use a nice Miller from my dad's work. Not sure on model, but it's one of the bigger ones.

But now that I think about it, my "hand-me-down" helmet sucks, been using a work light to see what I'm welding. I'll eventually look into one of the Lincolns, thanks to this thread.
 
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That miller might be salvageable. Probably change the clear lenses and check to see what shade it has typically 7-13 or if it's adjustable
 
AirborneTexasRanger said:
That miller might be salvageable. Probably change the clear lenses and check to see what shade it has typically 7-13 or if it's adjustable
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I meant I use a Miller welder. It'll burn through 1/2" steel like it's nothing.

The helmet is some no-name, I'll check if lenses are available for it. Sorry for the confusion.
 
AirborneTexasRanger said:
That's true. A hood is not something to cheap out on. Lincoln makes excellent hoods in the $100 - $200 range that will work for most diy welders.

Also changing out the clear lenses periodically will be important as well.

I use an esab sentinel but it used specific lenses that aren't cheap.

What hood do you prefer @mrblaine?
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I don't have a preference really other than something with easily replaced inner and outer lens covers that don't cost a fortune so you'll do it when you should and not delay because it costs too much. Something with a large viewing area, and something that isn't cheap.

I have a second gen Miller Digital Elite. I have had a high end Jackson, and my buddy who taught me most of what I know who is a longtime CWI, and has worked in some form of welding as a career most of his adult life prefers Speedglas and keeps trying to get me to buy one. I do okay with what I have and until that changes, I likely will stick with it.
 
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I use an old red top Jackson with a #10 lense when I stick weld and a Arc One T 240 with a # 9 lense for everything else, I have found a good leather headband makes a lot of difference as far as comfort goes.
 
TNHEADDUCK said:
I use an old red top Jackson with a #10 lense when I stick weld and a Arc One T 240 with a # 9 lense for everything else, I have found a good leather headband makes a lot of difference as far as comfort goes.
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Do you get eye fatigue with a #9 lens?
 
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freedom_in_4low said:
I started with that one. I got annoyed with the size of the viewing area. Ended up with a Hobart at about the same price range of the Lincoln posted above and I like it a lot more.
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Had a buddy who was struggling with his welds more than a little. I had him bring his hood up to get some pointers and at least try to get him a bit more squared away. I put his hood on just to see if HF was as bad as I expected it to be. I removed it, peeled off the protective plastic anti-scratch film from the inside and outside clear lenses and had him try it then.

Why he would try and weld with it like that for a couple of years is a mystery I will never understand.
 
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AirborneTexasRanger said:
Do you get eye fatigue with a #9 lense?
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That brings up, or maybe answers, another question. I run mine at #11 because that's what I read I should use for FCAW, but I never was certain what exactly the consequences would be if I missed by a shade or two. Eye fatigue is one thing, waking up with sand in my eyes or going blind at any point before I die is another.
 
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I have a Miller Digital Elite and a Jackson Truesight. I love the Truesight and it's really the only one I use anymore. I also had a pair of prescription welding glasses made that help immensely. Cheaters can work for most but my eyes vary too much for a standard cheater.

Although my first stick machine was a Lincoln I somehow ended up with all Miller stuff. I'm getting to the point now though where I don't use them all, I only use the MIG. Will probably sell my AC-DC Thunderbolt and my Maxstar 150.

Oxy-Acetylene welding is not only enjoyable but it is a great starting point to teach someone all about the puddle, once you understand the puddle it's all uphill (no pun intended) from there as you move on to the other processes. I had 3 O/A setups and sold one, probably need to be thinking about selling another. I basically use them for brazing and cutting but seldom really need to do any of that now.

The biggest issue I see with folks starting with MIG is that they don't learn the puddle and they get cold welds. The suggestion to take a Welding 101 community college class is spot on, they won't let you start with MIG, they'll teach you O/A first. You'll spend your first weeks chasing that puddle and it will give you a good understanding of what it takes to make welds that hold.

I wasn't a career welder so can't say I'm an expert but done enough of it to get to a place where I'm satisfied. I also have 2 forges, 1 gas and 1 coal, and some anvils and have done a bit of blacksmithing, and belong to a blacksmithing association here in Arizona.. I'm addicted to hot metal. Will be following along on this thread.
 
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freedom_in_4low said:
That brings up, or maybe answers, another question. I run mine at #11 because that's what I read I should use for FCAW, but I never was certain what exactly the consequences would be if I missed by a shade or two. Eye fatigue is one thing, waking up with sand in my eyes or going blind at any point before I die is another.
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So the lens darkness depends on your amps & welding process. 11 is kinda high for FCAW unless you're welding around 200 amps. If your eyes don't hurt afterwards then you should be good.

If I remember correctly, Lincoln Electric has a table that you can use for lens shade selection.

Edit: spelling corrections for @Zorba :)
 
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lense.png
 
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B1Toad said:
I have a Miller Digital Elite and a Jackson Truesight. I love the Truesight and it's really the only one I use anymore. I also had a pair of prescription welding glasses made that help immensely. Cheaters can work for most but my eyes vary too much for a standard cheater.

Although my first stick machine was a Lincoln I somehow ended up with all Miller stuff. I'm getting to the point now though where I don't use them all, I only use the MIG. Will probably sell my AC-DC Thunderbolt and my Maxstar 150.

Oxy-Acetylene welding is not only enjoyable but it is a great starting point to teach someone all about the puddle, once you understand the puddle it's all uphill (no pun intended) from there as you move on to the other processes. I had 3 O/A setups and sold one, probably need to be thinking about selling another. I basically use them for brazing and cutting but seldom really need to do any of that now.

The biggest issue I see with folks starting with MIG is that they don't learn the puddle and they get cold welds. The suggestion to take a Welding 101 community college class is spot on, they won't let you start with MIG, they'll teach you O/A first. You'll spend your first weeks chasing that puddle and it will give you a good understanding of what it takes to make welds that hold.

I wasn't a career welder so can't say I'm an expert but done enough of it to get to a place where I'm satisfied. I also have 2 forges, 1 gas and 1 coal, and some anvils and have done a bit of blacksmithing, and belong to a blacksmithing association here in Arizona.. I'm addicted to hot metal. Will be following along on this thread.
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Another great resource for those learning to weld is Jody Collier. His YouTube channel has some really good videos on the basics as well as some advanced welding.

https://youtube.com/@weldingtipsandtricks?si=DGsDgV-AtkaUjMuI
 
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B1Toad said:
The suggestion to take a Welding 101 community college class is spot on, they won't let you start with MIG, they'll teach you O/A first.
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When I took a welding course through a local CC we started with MIG. O/A welding was offered to those of us who wanted to try it, which was me and 1-2 other guys. I think there is little demand for it today, but I'm glad I tried it and know the basics. That instructor also offered to teach pipe sweating and again, only 2-3 out of 20 of us took him up.
 
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BlueC said:
When I took a welding course through a local CC we started with MIG. O/A welding was offered to those of us who wanted to try it, which was me and 1-2 other guys. I think there is little demand for it today, but I'm glad I tried it and know the basics. That instructor also offered to teach pipe sweating and again, only 2-3 out of 20 of us took him up.
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Every welding course should have a mandatory requirement to get decent with O/A welding. The concept of watching the puddle, puddle control and how to manipulate the electrode in the puddle are skills that will improve all other welding beyond measure. That doesn't mean you can't learn it without knowing how to O/A weld, but you'll be miles ahead if you learn that first.
 
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freedom_in_4low said:
I have what I think is a quality auto darkening mask but I have a hard time seeing the puddle through all the smoke and I've come (mostly through advice on this forum) to believe I need to move to gas shielded to actually get any better.
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One thing I've had to pound into the heads of most every beginning welder is to get your damned face out of directly over what you are welding. They put their face there so they can see the weld easier but the smoke and fumes rise pretty much straight up. You're breathing that crap and it is fogging up the protective lens so you have to change it way more often because you, like every other goober out there will pick up a rag fully saturated with metal dust to wipe off the smoke. Now it is so scratched up that you could see better had you just not touched it.

Work on getting over to the side of what you are welding so you can stay out of the smoke, everything is better after that.
 
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