An ode to my Moab wheels

danredtj

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Look, I already hate myself for making this post. Don't rub it in.

Here's the deal. I love my OEM Moab wheels. I think they are the appropriate look for a TJ Rubicon and somehow they just look so much better than the JK ones that followed. I really want to keep them and I think 16s provide a really nice amount of sidewall for 35s. I also love my MT/R tires and would buy another set if I could, but I can't and mine are spanked. They're unbelievably out of balance (the shop has tried several times but two of them are just wicked bad). They're starting to crack from age and look borderline unsafe.

What I want is another set of 35" MT/Rs in load range D for my 16" Moabs, but that can't happen. So I either have to get a set of load range E (probably MT Baja Boss M/T) or get an all new set of wheels and tires and say farewell to my Moabs. I know this is highly personal preference, and again it seems silly for me to ask for advice on preference things, but I'm hoping maybe someone else has been in the same position and can relate whether they felt they made the right or wrong decision. I know some people say Es are fine, but I have a hard time understanding how that can be, given how and what they're designed for.

Some details:
  • The TJ weighs right at 5000lbs with me in it and the soft top on. A little more with the hard top in the winter (which is a lot of the time) and a little less with the bikini and no doors in the summer.
  • It's just for wheeling. I don't daily it, and maybe take two trips to the grocery store per year when the weather just begs for it.
  • I trailer it to the trail quite a bit, but it has to be suitable for an hour drive to/from the trail, especially in a pinch. Not really any longer than that though.
  • Right now I air down to 7-8psi consistently and have never lost a bead (yet). I crawl and basically never "send it". Have never asked anyone to hold any beverage.
  • I really really like putting straps through the wheels to secure it on the trailer, it works very well for where my tie-downs are on the trailer and I don't have to worry about snagging brake lines and steering components. Not all wheels will allow this - when I have to trailer buddies on steelies it's a pain.
  • I'm really happy with this combo and swear the MT/Rs are magic compared to some of my wheeling buddies
  • I refuse to have any wheels that look like they're simulated beadlocks. Either beadlock, or no bolts on the rim. I do all my own work, I don't *want* more maintenance from beadlocks, but I don't think it'll be a problem.
My options are:

#1. Stick with the Moabs, get 35" Mickey Thompson Baja Boss M/T in load range E R16 and hope for the best. If they don't work out, I'll have to take the hit and do one of the below, because I don't put enough miles on them to warrant waiting them out.

#2. Get some 15" rims and get 35" Baja Boss, available in load range C for much less money than the 17s or 16s. I don't really like any aftermarket rims. I was looking at the TrailReady beadlocks (I figure if I'm replacing might as well go with beadlocks), but dang they're expensive. They support some of my local off-road events though, so maybe giving them $3k for wheels isn't so bad? I worry about spending a lot on 15" wheels and then having limited options in the future if 15s fall out of favor like the 16s did.

#3. Get some 17" rims and get 35" Baja Boss, available in load range D for about the same as the 16s. I think these look less good in terms if wheel-to-sidewall, and of course I prefer more sidewall for off-road performance. Still don't know what wheels I'd get. If I could go 37s on my axles without trouble, I'd do that and then 17s would be fine, but alas. I already have p***s envy because all my friends are in JLs on 40s so I also don't need my 35s looking smaller due to less sidewall to rim.

And yes, I know mrblaine says beadlocks are a solution for a problem that I apparently don't have (so far) but, I need wheels and it's a dedicated wheeler, so maybe it makes sense.

Okay, let the opinions and flames fly...

PXL_20260711_205657527.webp
 
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Options according to AI...

A. Interco Super Swamper TSL Bogger (35x16.00-16.5LT or 35x14.50-16LT): Known as one of the most aggressive mud terrains on the market, these are available in Load Range C. Note that the classic Bogger often requires a 16.5" wheel depending on the exact model.
B. Interco TrXus M/T (35x12.50R16LT): This radial mud-terrain is renowned for having a high amount of siping for rock crawling and snowy conditions, and is frequently available in Load Range C. C. Maxxis Trepador M8060 (35x12.50-16): A heavy-duty competition-style mud terrain that is known to come in a Load Range C with a 6-ply rating.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ict-m16-25r

-Mac
 
Last edited:
Options according to AI...

A. Interco Super Swamper TSL Bogger (35x16.00-16.5LT or 35x14.50-16LT): Known as one of the most aggressive mud terrains on the market, these are available in Load Range C. Note that the classic Bogger often requires a 16.5" wheel depending on the exact model.
B. Interco TrXus M/T (35x12.50R16LT): This radial mud-terrain is renowned for having a high amount of siping for rock crawling and snowy conditions, and is frequently available in Load Range C. C. Maxxis Trepador M8060 (35x12.50-16): A heavy-duty competition-style mud terrain that is known to come in a Load Range C with a 6-ply rating.

Thanks, but the reason for posting here was to get opinions from humans. Most of us can ask AI if we're interested in what it has to say :)

That said, I'll take the opportunity to say that I had ruled these out because they seem to be maybe a little too off-road-specific. The Maxxis for example recommends a top speed of 65 mph. That's about my top speed anyway, but it would still make me nervous putting something like that on given the occasional situation where I have to drive an hour to and from the trails at highway speeds. But, willing to take advice from humans who have experience with them.
 
Look, I already hate myself for making this post. Don't rub it in.

Here's the deal. I love my OEM Moab wheels. I think they are the appropriate look for a TJ Rubicon and somehow they just look so much better than the JK ones that followed. I really want to keep them and I think 16s provide a really nice amount of sidewall for 35s. I also love my MT/R tires and would buy another set if I could, but I can't and mine are spanked. They're unbelievably out of balance (the shop has tried several times but two of them are just wicked bad). They're starting to crack from age and look borderline unsafe.

What I want is another set of 35" MT/Rs in load range D for my 16" Moabs, but that can't happen. So I either have to get a set of load range E (probably MT Baja Boss M/T) or get an all new set of wheels and tires and say farewell to my Moabs. I know this is highly personal preference, and again it seems silly for me to ask for advice on preference things, but I'm hoping maybe someone else has been in the same position and can relate whether they felt they made the right or wrong decision. I know some people say Es are fine, but I have a hard time understanding how that can be, given how and what they're designed for.

Some details:
  • The TJ weighs right at 5000lbs with me in it and the soft top on. A little more with the hard top in the winter (which is a lot of the time) and a little less with the bikini and no doors in the summer.
  • It's just for wheeling. I don't daily it, and maybe take two trips to the grocery store per year when the weather just begs for it.
  • I trailer it to the trail quite a bit, but it has to be suitable for an hour drive to/from the trail, especially in a pinch. Not really any longer than that though.
  • Right now I air down to 7-8psi consistently and have never lost a bead (yet). I crawl and basically never "send it". Have never asked anyone to hold any beverage.
  • I really really like putting straps through the wheels to secure it on the trailer, it works very well for where my tie-downs are on the trailer and I don't have to worry about snagging brake lines and steering components. Not all wheels will allow this - when I have to trailer buddies on steelies it's a pain.
  • I'm really happy with this combo and swear the MT/Rs are magic compared to some of my wheeling buddies
  • I refuse to have any wheels that look like they're simulated beadlocks. Either beadlock, or no bolts on the rim. I do all my own work, I don't *want* more maintenance from beadlocks, but I don't think it'll be a problem.
My options are:

#1. Stick with the Moabs, get 35" Mickey Thompson Baja Boss M/T in load range E R16 and hope for the best. If they don't work out, I'll have to take the hit and do one of the below, because I don't put enough miles on them to warrant waiting them out.

#2. Get some 15" rims and get 35" Baja Boss, available in load range C for much less money than the 17s or 16s. I don't really like any aftermarket rims. I was looking at the TrailReady beadlocks (I figure if I'm replacing might as well go with beadlocks), but dang they're expensive. They support some of my local off-road events though, so maybe giving them $3k for wheels isn't so bad? I worry about spending a lot on 15" wheels and then having limited options in the future if 15s fall out of favor like the 16s did.

#3. Get some 17" rims and get 35" Baja Boss, available in load range D for about the same as the 16s. I think these look less good in terms if wheel-to-sidewall, and of course I prefer more sidewall for off-road performance. Still don't know what wheels I'd get. If I could go 37s on my axles without trouble, I'd do that and then 17s would be fine, but alas. I already have p***s envy because all my friends are in JLs on 40s so I also don't need my 35s looking smaller due to less sidewall to rim.

And yes, I know mrblaine says beadlocks are a solution for a problem that I apparently don't have (so far) but, I need wheels and it's a dedicated wheeler, so maybe it makes sense.

Okay, let the opinions and flames fly...

View attachment 700729

Option 3. 17’s and Load Range D. All good. More stability.
 
#1

Just get the E rated 16. Plus the 16s are still way cheaper then the 17s.
I have been running E rated and I would bet if you had a D and E rated tire side by side you wouldn’t notice the difference. You can get 1 brand of tire in D for 16s but I wouldn’t recommend you get Patagonia tires.
 
Cool, I wondered if you were on here.

I've got nothing to add about 16s. 15" Rock Monsters for the win! lol

Rock Monsters are one of the few aftermarket wheels I think look really good. Unless I'm mistaken they're no longer made in 5x4.5 which is a bummer :/
 
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I run E rated Nitto Ridge Grapplers on 17" Pro Comp Kore 89's. Can't say I have had any issues with having E rated tires both on road and off, but I've also never tried anything else. Personally I'd say that if you're in love with the wheels then keep them and get tires that fit while knowing that it may be harder to find tires in the future.
 
It bears repeating, but there is very little about the load range rating that actually affects tire ride quality. What does affect it are shit tire companies that don't care and think the customer won't care if it rides like ass because its supposed to. How do I arrive at that view? Simple, the JK 32 x 17" OEM "street" looking tires by all metrics we use, albeit poorly, to judge a tire are 100% wrong.

They are an outstandingly nice riding tire even at full sidewall pressure. If we use our normal criteria, short sidewall, large wheel diameter, and higher load range, they should suck and they just don't.

Put less emphasis on load range and concentrate on testing the ride quality first if you can before you dismiss something as terrible that might not be.
 
It bears repeating, but there is very little about the load range rating that actually affects tire ride quality. What does affect it are shit tire companies that don't care and think the customer won't care if it rides like ass because its supposed to. How do I arrive at that view? Simple, the JK 32 x 17" OEM "street" looking tires by all metrics we use, albeit poorly, to judge a tire are 100% wrong.

They are an outstandingly nice riding tire even at full sidewall pressure. If we use our normal criteria, short sidewall, large wheel diameter, and higher load range, they should suck and they just don't.

Put less emphasis on load range and concentrate on testing the ride quality first if you can before you dismiss something as terrible that might not be.

Okay, so I probably should have made this more clear in my post. I really don't care much about "ride quality" which I associate with "how it drives on the road". I do have to be able to get to and from the trail when not trailering, but what I really care about is how it will perform on the trail. Meaning, will it squish enough at reasonable pressure to give me the same large flexible contact patch I enjoy currently?

On the one hand, I figure just lowering the pressure enough will eventually give enough squish regardless of the sidewall's resistance. But, I also have a full size truck on Es and they feel stiff as hell (granted, totally different usage scenarios and pressures of course).

So @mrblaine I read your response as "stop worrying and learn to love the E-rated tires". Does the above clarification of only worrying about trail performance change it in any way? I wish I could test all these options before I commit for sure...

At the moment, "just stick with the E-rated 16s" seems to be winning the fight which surely is the easiest path and lets me keep my moabs. I read similar threads from times past like the one from @Chris who had a similar dilemma, went with Es and then later posted that "the difference between C and E is astounding." I dunno if that was an on-road daily-driver assessment or a weekend trail one though :)
 
Okay, so I probably should have made this more clear in my post. I really don't care much about "ride quality" which I associate with "how it drives on the road". I do have to be able to get to and from the trail when not trailering, but what I really care about is how it will perform on the trail. Meaning, will it squish enough at reasonable pressure to give me the same large flexible contact patch I enjoy currently?

On the one hand, I figure just lowering the pressure enough will eventually give enough squish regardless of the sidewall's resistance. But, I also have a full size truck on Es and they feel stiff as hell (granted, totally different usage scenarios and pressures of course).

So @mrblaine I read your response as "stop worrying and learn to love the E-rated tires". Does the above clarification of only worrying about trail performance change it in any way? I wish I could test all these options before I commit for sure...

At the moment, "just stick with the E-rated 16s" seems to be winning the fight which surely is the easiest path and lets me keep my moabs. I read similar threads from times past like the one from @Chris who had a similar dilemma, went with Es and then later posted that "the difference between C and E is astounding." I dunno if that was an on-road daily-driver assessment or a weekend trail one though :)

Again, the 35-17 tires we believe should suck based on old rules is just not true. There are several on here who have switched to 17" wheels for 35's and don't regret it.
 
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The load range of an LT tire doesn't really tell you anything other than how much load the tire can carry. It doesn't guarantee that a tire will ride harsh or soft. Generally speaking, the same tire model in two different load ratings will ride softer in the lower load range, but people conflate that to mean that E's (or D's for that matter) will automatically ride terribly. That is often not really true. I'd stick with whatever name brand you want and just run the E version if you like the wheels that much. D and E are not that far apart anyways in capacity and should ride similarly unless the brand you choose is trash.

And, I get it. After many years of aftermarket wheels, I went back to the original styled steel wheels for my Jeep and I couldn't be happier with that decision. If I had a Rubi, no doubt it would have the 16" Moabs on it.
 
Again, the 35-17 tires we believe should suck based on old rules is just not true. There are several on here who have switched to 17" wheels for 35's and don't regret it.

What about those people running 35 aspect ratio sidewalls on 22s?

Kidding!
 
The load range of an LT tire doesn't really tell you anything other than how much load the tire can carry. It doesn't guarantee that a tire will ride harsh or soft. Generally speaking, the same tire model in two different load ratings will ride softer in the lower load range, but people conflate that to mean that E's (or D's for that matter) will automatically ride terribly. That is often not really true. I'd stick with whatever name brand you want and just run the E version if you like the wheels that much. D and E are not that far apart anyways in capacity and should ride similarly unless the brand you choose is trash.

And, I get it. After many years of aftermarket wheels, I went back to the original styled steel wheels for my Jeep and I couldn't be happier with that decision. If I had a Rubi, no doubt it would have the 16" Moabs on it.

Outdoor Auto channel did a really good breakdown on the structural difference between I think BFG TAKO3 in load range C and E. The E wasn't any stiffer, it just had a slightly different structural layup. If I remember correctly there was barely a difference in the weight. It was a really good example of old rules not applying with new tire tech.

I am with @mrblaine on quality tires generally making for a better ride and top tier tires in general having advanced massively in the last 20 years.
 
Count me as one of the people that thought E load range would make a big difference when in fact it did not. at 5k lbs i imagine you won't have a problem getting sidewall flex out of them at the pressures you run.
 
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View attachment 700869

Flames has enter the chat.......Is this COVID Wheeling?

Hah. Damn, I posted a pic for attention, I guess I should expect attention to ... detail.

Mask leftover from the COVID era, yeah. But this was a trip through some of the dustiest terrain in the PNW, at the back of the pack of about 15 vehicles. Those masks have a nice little flap that sits over your nose under your sunglasses and prevents your breath from fogging them up and keeps the dust out very well. Ain't worried about gettin' the 'rona but am worried about the sinus infection I'll definitely get after a week of breathing in the dust.