Anyone run Metalcloak 6-pack shocks?

Metalcloak makes good products

Here is MetalCloak's powder coating on day one after removing bolts with washers once. Notice how thin and not durable the coat is. The bare metal is showing.

IMG_20191022_204123.jpg


Here is this bracket after 5 years. The 1/8" steel is completely rusted away in structural spots.

IMG_20180429_132237.jpg
 
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Here is MetalCloak's powder coating on day one after removing bolts with washers once. Notice how thin and not durable the coat is. The bare metal is showing.

View attachment 121271

Here is this bracket after 5 years. The 1/8" steel is completely rusted away in structural spots.

View attachment 121272
Mine don't have a speck of corrosion, but I guess that's about the only benefit of living in California. Also, metalcloak does not powder coat their products, a company down the road called champion does it. Why they put their reputation out there like they powder coat it themselves is beyond me. I use a different powder coating company and always order raw metal.
 
Would the OP need or benefit having the MC 6pak shocks with 3” of lift?

It all depends. Would 6pak shocks allow the OP to reduce bump stop? Does the OP ever full stuff the tires? If the answer is no to either question then 6paks would have no benefit. They are also a lot of money for a mild build.

What is the benefit of more shock uptravel if the spring is already fully compressed?

I have not seen coil springs reach coil bind. I have a few inches of spring compression left when I run out of tire clearance and shock travel at close to the same time. My Jeep is in early development

Okay so we agree that although these front shocks might be an cool idea, there are better shocks to run if fabricating custom mounting locations (fox 12” res. or other.

Like someone said, these shock pretty much eliminate the shock as a barrier for up or down travel. If I could not cut or weld the MC shocks would be on my wish list down the road.

I agree that there are better shock options IF you want to DIY or pay to have shock mounts modified. Extending the upper front shock mounts look way easier than the rear outboarding. Modifying for longer shocks is something I am comfortable doing. When and if I feel like the stock mounted shocks are holding me back I will most likely put longer Fox shocks on my Jeep. The thought of getting similar performance before lunchtime with 6Paks is tempting though. I just don't see them working as well as Fox shocks though.
 
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I'm late to the party, but I've been running MC 6Pak shocks for almost 4 years now. My 35" tires regularly get stuffed and these shocks have performed very well for my requirement, i.e. to do a short arm bolt on build that would give me the max flex. Truth be told, it wasn't a true "bolt on", because the rear shocks required removing the lower mounts and welding in the MC mounts. That said, I viewed that modification in the same class as replacing the stock lower control arm mounts, it was something I was willing to do.

Overall, I've been very pleased with them. The fronts give me more flex than my previous two shock setups and the ride is smooth. The rears were more challenging and I struggled initially with interference issues, due to the size of the shock body. The rears also require significant bump stopping, which limits their effectiveness (I'm running 3.25").

In terms of reliability, I just sent my shocks in for a their first rebuild. The cost was very reasonable and what I'd expect for any rebuidable shock. Would I buy them again? The short answer is yes. To be 100% transparent, these are not for everyone. As others have said, unless you're going to try and squeeze out every bit of performance out of stock control arm and shock mounts , and use it regularly, there are other less costly alternatives. My dream build would be a mid arm, with extended upper shock mounts, but for now I can wheel my Jeep every place I'm comfortable going and many I'm not.

The pictures below show the front with 6Paks and the rear with Bilstiens. (My rear 6 Paks were out getting rebuilt).


 
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I'm late to the party, but I've been running MC 6Pak shocks for almost 4 years now. My 35" tires regularly get stuffed and these shocks have performed very well for my requirement, i.e. to do a short arm bolt on build that would give me the max flex. Truth be told, it wasn't a true "bolt on", because the rear shocks required removing the lower mounts and welding in the MC mounts. That said, I viewed that modification in the same class as replacing the stock lower control arm mounts, it was something I was willing to do.

Overall, I've been very pleased with them. The fronts give me more flex than my previous two shock setups and the ride is smooth. The rears were more challenging and I struggled initially with interference issues, due to the size of the shock body. The rears also require significant bump stopping, which limits their effectiveness (I'm running 3.25").

In terms of reliability, I just sent my shocks in for a their first rebuild. The cost was very reasonable and what I'd expect for any rebuidable shock. Would I buy them again? The short answer is yes. To be 100% transparent, these are not for everyone. As others have said, unless you're going to try and squeeze out every bit of performance out of stock control arm and shock mounts , and use it regularly, there are other less costly alternatives. My dream build would be a mid arm, with extended upper shock mounts, but for now I can wheel my Jeep every place I'm comfortable going and many I'm not.

The pictures below show the front with 6Paks and the rear with Bilstiens. (My rear 6 Paks were out getting rebuilt).


I've talked to lots of JK and JL guys that really like these shocks, you are the first TJ owner I've heard from. Really nice jeep btw
 
I'm late to the party, but I've been running MC 6Pak shocks for almost 4 years now. My 35" tires regularly get stuffed and these shocks have performed very well for my requirement, i.e. to do a short arm bolt on build that would give me the max flex. Truth be told, it wasn't a true "bolt on", because the rear shocks required removing the lower mounts and welding in the MC mounts. That said, I viewed that modification in the same class as replacing the stock lower control arm mounts, it was something I was willing to do.

Overall, I've been very pleased with them. The fronts give me more flex than my previous two shock setups and the ride is smooth. The rears were more challenging and I struggled initially with interference issues, due to the size of the shock body. The rears also require significant bump stopping, which limits their effectiveness (I'm running 3.25").

In terms of reliability, I just sent my shocks in for a their first rebuild. The cost was very reasonable and what I'd expect for any rebuidable shock. Would I buy them again? The short answer is yes. To be 100% transparent, these are not for everyone. As others have said, unless you're going to try and squeeze out every bit of performance out of stock control arm and shock mounts , and use it regularly, there are other less costly alternatives. My dream build would be a mid arm, with extended upper shock mounts, but for now I can wheel my Jeep every place I'm comfortable going and many I'm not.

The pictures below show the front with 6Paks and the rear with Bilstiens. (My rear 6 Paks were out getting rebuilt).



How much actual up and down are you getting?
 
How much actual up and down are you getting?

I'm curious about this too, but I have a feeling the only way I (or JJVW) would be happy is to take a jeep like yours, get it to the garage pull the springs and cycle everything ourselves. I expect any 12" travel shock would perform equally well or perhaps better (especially in the rear). But the point of the MC6PK is its a (mostly)bolt-on mod. Some people cringe at the thought of cutting off bits of their vehicles' frames.
 
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I'm curious about this too, but I have a feeling the only way I (or JJVW) would be happy is to take a jeep like yours, get it to the garage pull the springs and cycle everything ourselves. I expect any 12" travel shock would perform equally well or perhaps better (especially in the rear). But the point of the MC6PK is its a (mostly)bolt-on mod. Some people cringe at the thought of cutting off bits of their vehicles' frames.

The 6 Pack is what it is. And the idea is very interesting. It's just nice to know actual numbers beyond it's great and no issues.
 
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It's been a while since I set the shocks up, but the numbers are around the following:

Front
Up travel = 4.5"
Down travel = 8.25"

Rear
Up travel = 3.75"
Down travel = 9"

This is based on a setup for running 35" tires, with a 13" travel shock. For the rear I could get a little more up travel, but decided to not trim the bottom rear wheel well lip and bump stop accordingly. For the type of wheeling I do, I normally try to setup the shocks so there is 1/3 up travel and 2/3 down travel. Bottom line, I don't claim to be an expert, but I've wheeled my Jeep enough to know what works and what doesn't.

Like I said earlier, they aren't for everyone. They are pricey and require rebuilding. I'm happy with their overall performance, like innovative products that work, and Metalcloak customer service is hands down the best I've experienced in the Jeep world. To be clear, I'm not a Metalcloak only purist. I use a combination of Savvy, Currie, Genright, and UCF parts across my TJ and LJ and am more than happy to use what works best for my needs, regardless of the vendor.
 
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Those are tough numbers to run cleanly on stock axles even when setup well.
 
It's been a while since I set the shocks up, but the numbers are around the following:

Front
Up travel = 4.5"
Down travel = 8.25"

Rear
Up travel = 3.75"
Down travel = 9"

This is based on a setup for running 35" tires, with a 13" travel shock. For the rear I could get a little more up travel, but decided to not trim the bottom rear wheel well lip and bump stop accordingly. For the type of wheeling I do, I normally try to setup the shocks so there is 1/3 up travel and 2/3 down travel. Bottom line, I don't claim to be an expert, but I've wheeled my Jeep enough to know what works and what doesn't.

Like I said earlier, they aren't for everyone. They are pricey and require rebuilding. I'm happy with their overall performance, like innovative products that work, and Metalcloak customer service is hands down the best I've experienced in the Jeep world. To be clear, I'm not a Metalcloak only purist. I use a combination of Savvy, Currie, Genright, and UCF parts across my TJ and LJ and am more than happy to use what works best for my needs, regardless of the vendor.
Like @jjvw said those number are crazy difficult to get, I’d pay money to watch it cycled!! (super interesting to me). Is your rear extended lengths where your driveshaft binds?
 
It's been a while since I set the shocks up, but the numbers are around the following:

Front
Up travel = 4.5"
Down travel = 8.25"

Rear
Up travel = 3.75"
Down travel = 9"

This is based on a setup for running 35" tires, with a 13" travel shock. For the rear I could get a little more up travel, but decided to not trim the bottom rear wheel well lip and bump stop accordingly. For the type of wheeling I do, I normally try to setup the shocks so there is 1/3 up travel and 2/3 down travel. Bottom line, I don't claim to be an expert, but I've wheeled my Jeep enough to know what works and what doesn't.

Like I said earlier, they aren't for everyone. They are pricey and require rebuilding. I'm happy with their overall performance, like innovative products that work, and Metalcloak customer service is hands down the best I've experienced in the Jeep world. To be clear, I'm not a Metalcloak only purist. I use a combination of Savvy, Currie, Genright, and UCF parts across my TJ and LJ and am more than happy to use what works best for my needs, regardless of the vendor.
Looks pretty legit to me, from what I've read 1/3 up 2/3 down is a solid setup for your type of wheeling.
 
Those are tough numbers to run cleanly on stock axles even when setup well.

Agreed. The numbers are the result of trial and error, squeezing out every bit of useful travel possible. Different control arms and mounts, track bar binding on the diff cover, multiple shocks tried, different springs tested, running different bump stops, extended brake lines that needed to be extended, and more tested my patience and wallet. The numbers are from memory and are + or - , but they are darn close. Everyone that sees my Jeep in action is amazed at how much a SA can flex. For me it was both a challenge and a learning experince. I do all my own work and, sadly, learn best by making mistakes!
 
Like @jjvw said those number are crazy difficult to get, I’d pay money to watch it cycled!! (super interesting to me). Is your rear extended lengths where your driveshaft binds?

... Is your rear extended lengths where your driveshaft binds?

Longer drive shaft and the rear output is likely sitting lower than
If only one wheel drops and the other is stuffed, bind is much less an issue. A strap on the pumpkin would be a good idea.

An LJ helps. The problem I see with too much travel is the inner sidewall mashing into the body and frame at full flex. Then I wonder about the range of motion on the steering and front track bar joints. It's a lot of work to get that travel to work well and is why I don't plan on going past 11" on the front any time soon.
 
If only one wheel drops and the other is stuffed, bind is much less an issue. A strap on the pumpkin would be a good idea.

An LJ helps. The problem I see with too much travel is the inner sidewall mashing into the body and frame at full flex, full steering lock. Then I wonder about the range of motion on the steering and front track bar joints. It's a lot of work to get that travel to work well and is why I don't plan on going past 11" on the front any time soon
 
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