Arizona Rock Crawler

ya, hope you tipped that guy and glad it's sorted.

my field wheels are 35x13.5x17 TSL's on steel homebrew bead locks. nobody i've asked is even willing to put these on a machine.
i dumped about 20oz worth of 3 different size beads in them and said screw it, they will not see many road miles.
 
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kmas0n said:
I purchased my own tire equipment so I wouldn't be at the mercy of shitty chain stores and drugged up teens. Through trial and error I've gotten pretty good at balancing 37's. Some brands are better than others. Most instructional vids just say do what the machine says, but that never seems to work. I usually balance the back of the wheel first, with hammer on weights, then the front with stick on weights, and then fine tune the back again. Every time you add a weight to one side it changes the weight on the other side. I think adding a 1/4 - 1/2 pound of weight throws the machine off. So I "chase" a perfect balance. It takes a while, but even with very cheap equipment, I've been able to make most tires balance. I have no idea if this is the "right" way to do it, just something I've learned.

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What is your cheap equipment? We tried a cheap HF static balancer last year and found that it always leaned to same side regardless of how we set the tire on it.
 
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Claytone said:
That’s about as affordable as you’ll find. And if the balancer really gets you dialed in, then that’s great.
I’m a fan of Hunter equipment from back in the dealer days but holy hell it’s expensive. Even used re-furb will drain your $$$$$
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It's a bare bones set, but they do thier job. The assist arm makes a huge difference
 
marketplace. you can pick up a used Coats machine around here for under 1k ,seen them as cheap as 3-500$.
 
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starkey480 said:
2” diameter links are FAT. The left is the 2” lowers and the right is 1.5” uppers. 1.5” is the same diameter as the short arm lowers that savvy makes.
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Just so folks don't get confused as to why different diameters of material are used, the concept is simple. As the length increases, the diameter has to also increase to achieve the same or similar resistance to bending. Also why you can get by with longer 1.5" diameter uppers, they are very unlikely to get levered by a big rock with a tire off the ground.
 
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mrblaine said:
Just so folks don't get confused as to why different diameters of material are used, the concept is simple. As the length increases, the diameter has to also increase to achieve the same or similar resistance to bending. Also why you can get by with longer 1.5" diameter uppers, they are very unlikely to get levered by a big rock with a tire off the ground.
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I explained that same thing to the guy that placed my order. He was like wow 1.5” links really don’t have that much meat on them are you sure? Yes, how often do you hit your upper links on a rock?
 
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starkey480 said:
I explained that same thing to the guy that placed my order. He was like wow 1.5” links really don’t have that much meat on them are you sure? Yes, how often do you hit your upper links on a rock?
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Try explaining that even though they are triangulated, they only operate in tension and compression.
 
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I wanted to like brown dog motor mounts. I originally got them because they are made locally in my hometown. Nice people. The bushings suck. This bushing was sagging exactly like this a few weeks ago. I picked up a new bushing from them for a few bucks and it is already badly sagging. My idle vibes are worse than I would like so it’s time to fix it.
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They weren’t kidding when they call these ultra flex bushings. They are so flimsy and fell right out of the mount.
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I am swapping these out for some mopar motor mounts and a rough country 1” motor mount lift. The RC lift was the cheapest and fastest delivery. The blocks are aluminum like others and the fasteners seem fine. It will do the job.
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The new mounts are in and the results are astounding. It feels like an electric car compared to the way it was. Idle vibes are gone. Floor board vibes I was getting at varying rpms are gone. The Jeep is overall much much quieter at all speeds and just plain smoother to drive. Mopar mounts are the way to go.
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I also trimmed the frame bracket for the mounts because the motor bracket and frame bracket were touching. Getting a grinding wheel in there was a bitch so the cuts aren’t beautiful. But I have lots of clearance there now.
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Sounds like the rough country lift blocks are already cut and clearances for the bolt head on the passenger side. I think some other brands you need to trim the lift block to clear
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When installing motor mount lift blocks like this, don’t forget to cut the motor mount studs enough that the extension bolt fits snug against the motor mount. I cut about 1/4” off with a cutoff disc, then used a filed on the edges so it would thread on nicely, then some red loctite.
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starkey480 said:
The new mounts are in and the results are astounding. It feels like an electric car compared to the way it was. Idle vibes are gone. Floor board vibes I was getting at varying rpms are gone. The Jeep is overall much much quieter at all speeds and just plain smoother to drive. Mopar mounts are the way to go.
View attachment 343258
I also trimmed the frame bracket for the mounts because the motor bracket and frame bracket were touching. Getting a grinding wheel in there was a bitch so the cuts aren’t beautiful. But I have lots of clearance there now.
View attachment 343260
Sounds like the rough country lift blocks are already cut and clearances for the bolt head on the passenger side. I think some other brands you need to trim the lift block to clear
View attachment 343265
When installing motor mount lift blocks like this, don’t forget to cut the motor mount studs enough that the extension bolt fits snug against the motor mount. I cut about 1/4” off with a cutoff disc, then used a filed on the edges so it would thread on nicely, then some red loctite.
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Awesome to hear. A quiet, vibe free Jeep is very enjoyable. It's amazing how much we can get used to over time.
 
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