Arizona Rock Crawler

Today was a victory. This was my 4th time getting my tires balanced in a week and they are finally good! In the past I had gotten some good balances at the discount tire by my old apartment. I did some digging and found the name of the guy who did some of my good balances. Figured out when he was working and took it to him this morning. Just a kid who drives a Cherokee on 35s. It wasn’t very busy in there this morning so I got to go hang out in the garage and work with him on the tires. This may not be realistic for everyone because we spent probably an hour working on it, but here is what we did:

We balanced all 5 tires.

Visually inspected the spin on each tire.

Moved the worst tire to the spare.

My tires have 2 problems. Some of them spin straight but are vertically out of round. Some of them were were nice and round, but had excessive lateral runout.

We picked the 2 tires with the least lateral runout and put those up front, even though one of them was fairly out of round.

We put the tires with the most lateral runout in the rear.

When we balanced the tires, if it didn’t look visually good, we would try multiple different balances and see which balance achieved the best looking spin. Some of them we static balanced, some of them were road forced. He put on weights and scraped them off and started over a bunch of times.

He also would fit the wheel back on my rig and make sure there was plenty of space between the weights and the bbk caliper. On one occasion it cleared, but not enough for comfort for him so he took it off, scraped the weights off and restarted.

I was so frustrated how shitty my rig felt with unbalanced tires. Especially with everyone at the tire places and off-road shop telling me that these tires would never ride smooth or that I must have a problem in my steering. Can’t thank this guy enough and I hope this helps someone else.

I am interested in seeing what will happen with my Baja Boss' tyres this winter. I'll be able to tackle bigger stuff now. So far I only have street miles on them.
 
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ya, hope you tipped that guy and glad it's sorted.

my field wheels are 35x13.5x17 TSL's on steel homebrew bead locks. nobody i've asked is even willing to put these on a machine.
i dumped about 20oz worth of 3 different size beads in them and said screw it, they will not see many road miles.
 
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I purchased my own tire equipment so I wouldn't be at the mercy of shitty chain stores and drugged up teens. Through trial and error I've gotten pretty good at balancing 37's. Some brands are better than others. Most instructional vids just say do what the machine says, but that never seems to work. I usually balance the back of the wheel first, with hammer on weights, then the front with stick on weights, and then fine tune the back again. Every time you add a weight to one side it changes the weight on the other side. I think adding a 1/4 - 1/2 pound of weight throws the machine off. So I "chase" a perfect balance. It takes a while, but even with very cheap equipment, I've been able to make most tires balance. I have no idea if this is the "right" way to do it, just something I've learned.

...

What is your cheap equipment? We tried a cheap HF static balancer last year and found that it always leaned to same side regardless of how we set the tire on it.
 
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That’s about as affordable as you’ll find. And if the balancer really gets you dialed in, then that’s great.
I’m a fan of Hunter equipment from back in the dealer days but holy hell it’s expensive. Even used re-furb will drain your $$$$$

It's a bare bones set, but they do thier job. The assist arm makes a huge difference
 
marketplace. you can pick up a used Coats machine around here for under 1k ,seen them as cheap as 3-500$.
 
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2” diameter links are FAT. The left is the 2” lowers and the right is 1.5” uppers. 1.5” is the same diameter as the short arm lowers that savvy makes.
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Just so folks don't get confused as to why different diameters of material are used, the concept is simple. As the length increases, the diameter has to also increase to achieve the same or similar resistance to bending. Also why you can get by with longer 1.5" diameter uppers, they are very unlikely to get levered by a big rock with a tire off the ground.
 
Just so folks don't get confused as to why different diameters of material are used, the concept is simple. As the length increases, the diameter has to also increase to achieve the same or similar resistance to bending. Also why you can get by with longer 1.5" diameter uppers, they are very unlikely to get levered by a big rock with a tire off the ground.

I explained that same thing to the guy that placed my order. He was like wow 1.5” links really don’t have that much meat on them are you sure? Yes, how often do you hit your upper links on a rock?
 
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I explained that same thing to the guy that placed my order. He was like wow 1.5” links really don’t have that much meat on them are you sure? Yes, how often do you hit your upper links on a rock?

Try explaining that even though they are triangulated, they only operate in tension and compression.
 
I wanted to like brown dog motor mounts. I originally got them because they are made locally in my hometown. Nice people. The bushings suck. This bushing was sagging exactly like this a few weeks ago. I picked up a new bushing from them for a few bucks and it is already badly sagging. My idle vibes are worse than I would like so it’s time to fix it.
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They weren’t kidding when they call these ultra flex bushings. They are so flimsy and fell right out of the mount.
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I am swapping these out for some mopar motor mounts and a rough country 1” motor mount lift. The RC lift was the cheapest and fastest delivery. The blocks are aluminum like others and the fasteners seem fine. It will do the job.
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The new mounts are in and the results are astounding. It feels like an electric car compared to the way it was. Idle vibes are gone. Floor board vibes I was getting at varying rpms are gone. The Jeep is overall much much quieter at all speeds and just plain smoother to drive. Mopar mounts are the way to go.
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I also trimmed the frame bracket for the mounts because the motor bracket and frame bracket were touching. Getting a grinding wheel in there was a bitch so the cuts aren’t beautiful. But I have lots of clearance there now.
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Sounds like the rough country lift blocks are already cut and clearances for the bolt head on the passenger side. I think some other brands you need to trim the lift block to clear
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When installing motor mount lift blocks like this, don’t forget to cut the motor mount studs enough that the extension bolt fits snug against the motor mount. I cut about 1/4” off with a cutoff disc, then used a filed on the edges so it would thread on nicely, then some red loctite.
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