Built Dana 30 with 5.13 gears vs Built Dana 44 with 5.38 gears

That's a old pic in my profile I no longer have that tj. 2600 isn't bad on the freeway but I still would not want my jeep turning 3k for hours on end. Isn't his trans ratio 1st 2;84;1 2nd 1;57;1 3rd 1;1 4th .69;1?

OP- What tires and gears are you currently running?

Like Jerry said, if you had a 42RLE, you'd understand. I run a 42RLE on 5.13 gears, with 35" tires, and I'm no where near 3k RPMs at 70 mph. In fact, I'm just a tad under 2400 RPMs, which is still a little to low. If I had 5.38, I'd be approximately 120 RPMs more.
 
Like Jerry said, if you had a 42RLE, you'd understand. I run a 42RLE on 5.13 gears, with 35" tires, and I'm no where near 3k RPMs at 70 mph. In fact, I'm just a tad under 2400 RPMs, which is still a little to low. If I had 5.38, I'd be approximately 120 RPMs more.
Can't you take it out of overdrive? We had a 80 chevy k10 with a 700r trans and hooked the OD up to a toggle switch so we could turn it on and off when needed. At 1;1 you should be turning around 3500, I've always based my gears off of a 1;1 ratio not the OD.
 
Can't you take it out of overdrive? We had a 80 chevy k10 with a 700r trans and hooked the OD up to a toggle switch so we could turn it on and off when needed. At 1;1 you should be turning around 3500, I've always based my gears off of a 1;1 ratio not the OD.
You would be turning around 3500 RPM at his gearing and 42RLE. Assume he is running at 2400 RPM and hits the OD. Divide 2400 by 0.69 (42RLE OD ratio) and you get almost 3500 RPM.
 
Can't you take it out of overdrive? We had a 80 chevy k10 with a 700r trans and hooked the OD up to a toggle switch so we could turn it on and off when needed. At 1;1 you should be turning around 3500, I've always based my gears off of a 1;1 ratio not the OD.

All the TJ/LJ equipped 42RLEs have a switch on the dash that allows you to turn off the overdrive. I used all the time, before re-gearing. (y)
 
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Do you use overdrive with your setup?

The only time I use the OD is if I'm on the highway. Otherwise, I turn it off to keep transmission temperatures down and to prolong the transmission life.
 
The only time I use the OD is if I'm on the highway. Otherwise, I turn it off to keep transmission temperatures down and to prolong the transmission life.
And by turning it off, that’s when the light comes on right? And i didn’t know it keeps the temp down and prolongs the trans life when it’s off (obviously city driving not highway)
 
And by turning it off, that’s when the light comes on right? And i didn’t know it keeps the temp down and prolongs the trans life when it’s off (obviously city driving not highway)
It primarily has to do with the torque converter. Automatic TJs are equipped with a locking torque converter. In low gears, the torque converter is always unlocked, though in 3rd or 4th it can be either locked or unlocked.

The torque converter only locks when there is sufficiently low torque demand to prevent lugging the engine. The higher the gear ratio, the lower the torque demand.

When the torque converter is unlocked, a significant amount of mechanical energy is lost as heat, similar to slipping a clutch on a manual. This heat builds up in the transmission and shortens the life of the fluid and of the components.

Lower gearing in the axles and the use of the OD off switch reduces the torque demand on the transmission torque converter, thus allowing it to remain locked for a longer period of time.

In addition, higher transmission RPMs help protect the transmission because the fluid is pumped through the cooler(s) more quickly at higher RPM. An auxiliary transmission cooler is recommended for hot or demanding environments (such as frequent towing).

The RPMs have much less of an effect on a manual, as the clutch is almost always engaged, and the heat of a torque converter is not produced. But lower gearing still helps protect the clutch, and in some cases, the synchros.


As an aside, if you've ever wondered why automatics traditionally got worse mileage than manuals, it is because of the torque converter. Unlike the manual,, the torque converter wastes a significant amount of mechanical energy by converting it to heat when it is unlocked. With modern advances in 6-10 speed transmissions, locking torque converters, and better control systems, new automatics generally outperform manuals in terms of fuel efficiency.
 
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I mean that the 42RLE is such a terribly geared transmission that even 5.38s still don't seem ideal with 35s. It accelerates fine, it's just that if you don't get in the habit of turning off the overdrive anytime you get in the vehicle, it still wants to consistently hunt for overdrive and shift into it way before it actually should. Of course this is the fault of the lousy .69 OD ratio, which is something that can't be changed no matter what unfortunately.


If you think that is lousy, the AOD on my 1985 Ford F150 with a has a stock .67 OD ratio!

At interstate speeds, I can cruise at a cool 1500 RPM at 55 MPH. It's not great for power, but it is as smooth as a yacht in overdrive.
 
If you think that is lousy, the AOD on my 1985 Ford F150 with a has a stock .67 OD ratio!

At interstate speeds, I can cruise at a cool 1500 RPM at 55 MPH. It's not great for power, but it is as smooth as a yacht in overdrive.
So I assume your Ford is also hunting for OD? I think that's my biggest annoyance with the 42RLE is that it wants to be in OD all the time, so unless you switch it off anytime you start the vehicle (which admittedly does make it so much better to drive), it's constantly shifting back-and-forth between 3rd and 4th gears, and doing it much to soon.

I finally got in the habit of just turning off OD anytime I started the vehicle. Once in this habit, it didn't bother me anymore. Still, it's a hard habit for some to make.
 
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@Irun @Jerry Bransford
Yes thank you guys, definitely going with 5.13 if i can’t find a Dana 44 front. Also, you guys know if revolution, and ARB have Black Friday deals? That’s when I’m planning on getting everything!
Probably but I STRONGLY (!!!) suggest you not buy the gears, locker, etc. on your own trying to save a few bucks with the intention of giving the parts to the installing shop. Have the shop provide all parts. Period. It may cost a tad more but then the installing shop's warranty will cover everything, all parts and labor, instead of just their labor.

If you think the gear and locker manufacturer provides a warranty that's true BUT if something fails, the usual cause of the failure of gears and/or lockers is due to the installer screwing something up. And if that happens, the installing shop will blame the parts you provided and claim they installed everything perfectly. The gear/locker dealer will blame the installation process, which is indeed the usual source of post-installation problems.

By having the shop provide everything they can't point their fingers at anyone but themselves. You can tell them you want an ARB locker and Revolution Gear gears but have them source them themselves. That can eliminate a whole lot of grief, problems, and finger-pointing.
 
In stock form how many teeth are meshed at once? Is it only ever 1 tooth or in the lower ratios are there more teeth engaged at once?

I'm just wondering because if that is the case, would there be an issue at higher ratios with only 1 tooth engaged in the ring and pinion?
 
In stock form how many teeth are meshed at once? Is it only ever 1 tooth or in the lower ratios are there more teeth engaged at once?

I'm just wondering because if that is the case, would there be an issue at higher ratios with only 1 tooth engaged in the ring and pinion?
How many teeth are engaged is irrelevant on the ratios we're recommending. The 5.38 ratio was thoroughly tested on the toughest trails in the US in Johnson Valley and have no problems. I'm running 5.38 myself. 5.13 has an excellent reputation in the Dana 30 too.
 
Mine is an automatic. This is on the way home from CO. We were on level ground driving near Las Vegas I think. The speedo is pretty close to dead-on based on the couple tests I ran.

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Yeah, but the Jeep Cruise Control seriously not very good.
You get anything more than about a 2-degree incline and it wants to downshift.
You get any kind of minor decline and it will keep surging on and off the throttle.
 
In stock form how many teeth are meshed at once? Is it only ever 1 tooth or in the lower ratios are there more teeth engaged at once?

I'm just wondering because if that is the case, would there be an issue at higher ratios with only 1 tooth engaged in the ring and pinion?
When you do engineering analysis on gears, you always assume just one tooth bears the force. There is usually a point where two teeth briefly are in contact simultaneously, but eventually one tooth always bears the load.

There are different tooth counts available in a few ratios. For example, you can get 4.88, 4.89, and 4.90 gears for the Dana 44, all with different tooth counts. Generally the coarsest setup is used unless there is a NVH concern