Daily Driver, Go Where I Want To Build

jjvw said:
I was able to get a good deal on a Warn small hub kit with a spare pair of lockouts. And with more of Blaine's help, this included 16" rotors for the Vanco BBK machined to fit hubs and the needed spacers to position the calipers where they need to be.
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View attachment 317006

And Revolution was able to send me a pair of cromoly inner axle shafts to complete the hub kit.
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Did a quick scan of this topic and have a boatload of questions. Any chance it might get duplicated to a dedicated thread so I can easily follow along? EDIT: Ah, nevermind, I see it's your build thread so can easily find my way back.
204 pages? How many $$$ per page I'm wondering:unsure:

I would really like a hub kit if it can be done w/o a bunch of hassle and not at the expense of the Yukon kit.
My LJ has BMB 15/16" complete kit running 15" wheels, 3.75 BS, and the Revolution 763x joints.
Would love to hear that I can get an off the shelf hub kit to bolt right up. I've had Warn hubs on my XJ forever with no issues.
I'd like something solid and not some cheap junk but don't want to break what's left of the bank either.

FWIW I Bookmarked this post on the forum but now need to find out how to get back to it.

Thanks!
 
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To make the JK wheels and the spacers fit the hub kit, I needed to open up the center bore on both.

The quick explanation is that I used hole saws nested together to create a piloted hole saw.

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This allowed me to use the existing hole size to guide and center the new cut. Masking tape is used to make the pilot hole size better match it's opening.

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The spacer is bolted to the wheel for better leverage.
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From there, I used the drilled spacer and the nested hole saws to drill out the wheel.
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When assembled, the hub will only protrude about 3/8" from the wheel face.
20220308_171527.jpg
 
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And I got a pair of 30" OTC long tire levers for when I can get new tires and mount the Coyote inner beadlocks.
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Tires are the big hold up. I found three 35x12.5x17 MTRs at a Discount Tire. I just need to find two more.
 
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NOTNSUV said:
Did a quick scan of this topic and have a boatload of questions. Any chance it might get duplicated to a dedicated thread so I can easily follow along? EDIT: Ah, nevermind, I see it's your build thread so can easily find my way back.
204 pages? How many $$$ per page I'm wondering:unsure:

I would really like a hub kit if it can be done w/o a bunch of hassle and not at the expense of the Yukon kit.
My LJ has BMB 15/16" complete kit running 15" wheels, 3.75 BS, and the Revolution 763x joints.
Would love to hear that I can get an off the shelf hub kit to bolt right up. I've had Warn hubs on my XJ forever with no issues.
I'd like something solid and not some cheap junk but don't want to break what's left of the bank either.

FWIW I Bookmarked this post on the forum but now need to find out how to get back to it.

Thanks!
Click to expand...
Ah.. a bit of a search on the topic seems to reveal that there's no easy bolt on hub solution. Dang!

Are the Yukon hubs the only setup that'll work w/o mods?
I'll keep researching but a yes or no would save me time if not money.;)
 
NOTNSUV said:
Did a quick scan of this topic and have a boatload of questions. Any chance it might get duplicated to a dedicated thread so I can easily follow along? EDIT: Ah, nevermind, I see it's your build thread so can easily find my way back.
204 pages? How many $$$ per page I'm wondering:unsure:

I would really like a hub kit if it can be done w/o a bunch of hassle and not at the expense of the Yukon kit.
My LJ has BMB 15/16" complete kit running 15" wheels, 3.75 BS, and the Revolution 763x joints.
Would love to hear that I can get an off the shelf hub kit to bolt right up. I've had Warn hubs on my XJ forever with no issues.
I'd like something solid and not some cheap junk but don't want to break what's left of the bank either.

FWIW I Bookmarked this post on the forum but now need to find out how to get back to it.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

It's a whole bunch of hassle and expense. The only difference between what I am doing compared to a 15" wheel with the BBK is the spacer used to achieve the desired backspacing. You still need to machine the rotor, space the caliper, make the hub fit the spacer and maybe the wheel.
 
jjvw said:
It's a whole bunch of hassle and expense. The only difference between what I am doing compared to a 15" wheel with the BBK is the spacer used to achieve the desired backspacing. You still need to machine the rotor, space the caliper, make the hub fit the spacer and maybe the wheel.
Click to expand...
OyeVay. Thanks
 
NOTNSUV said:
Ah.. a bit of a search on the topic seems to reveal that there's no easy bolt on hub solution. Dang!

Are the Yukon hubs the only setup that'll work w/o mods?
I'll keep researching but a yes or no would save me time if not money.;)
Click to expand...

I don't think the Yukon will fit properly without mods, either. It isn't much different than the Warn.
 
starkey480 said:
The hub kit also uses early rotors which stick out .22” more than the late rotors.
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Does that mean I need a 1" spacer? Or does that not matter because the rotor lives behind the wheel mounting surface?
 
jjvw said:
Does that mean I need a 1" spacer?
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Technically the hub kit adds 1.09” as compared to later style unit bearings (.22” of extra rotor stick out and .875” for the hubs themselves). So right now your backspacing is 3.65”. A 1” spacer would definitely put you closer to that 4” backspace.
 
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starkey480 said:
Technically the hub kit adds 1.09” as compared to later style unit bearings (.22” of extra rotor stick out and .875” for the hubs themselves). So right now your backspacing is 3.65”. A 1” spacer would definitely put you closer to that 4” backspace.
Click to expand...
I'll have to compare it to my spare unit bearing tomorrow.
 
NOTNSUV said:
Ah.. a bit of a search on the topic seems to reveal that there's no easy bolt on hub solution. Dang!

Are the Yukon hubs the only setup that'll work w/o mods?
I'll keep researching but a yes or no would save me time if not money.;)
Click to expand...
Help me out with some clarity.
You would like a locking hub conversion that is not Yukon?
You want it to bolt up to the big brake kit without any mods?

Correct so far?
 
jjvw said:
It's a whole bunch of hassle and expense. The only difference between what I am doing compared to a 15" wheel with the BBK is the spacer used to achieve the desired backspacing. You still need to machine the rotor, space the caliper, make the hub fit the spacer and maybe the wheel.
Click to expand...
Outside of the center bore in the rims being able to fit over the locking hub body issue, the rest is basic and very common.

We convert the brake kits to work with the hub kits from 1 to several times a month. For the 15/16" brake kits, all we do is use the same caliper saddle spacer that is used when someone uses the early unit bearings. It is stock and on the shelf already loaded into hardware kits for that application.

The rest is fitting the rotor to the bearing hub and I've got most of those on the shelf already machined but I always mock it up and check them before they go out.
 
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jjvw said:
Does that mean I need a 1" spacer? Or does that not matter because the rotor lives behind the wheel mounting surface?
Click to expand...
The bearing hub flange is located off the face of the knuckle using the early full cast rotor from the YJ which is the same depth as the early TJ rotors. That dimension is to the back side of the flange.
 
jjvw said:
Tires are the big hold up. I found three 35x12.5x17 MTRs at a Discount Tire. I just need to find two more.
Click to expand...
these are goin away fast with a spongy restock date............all the dates i'm seeing are mid May. there are lots of good used sets around but it's gettin hard to find a new MT/R in non-metric size around here.
 
mrblaine said:
He has the actual Warn kit, you have the Yukon kit. This is one of the differences. Warn is the thinner one.
View attachment 317036View attachment 317037
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So his hubs stick out 3/4” off the rotor as opposed to Yukon sticking out 7/8”. But his rotor still sticks out like an early unit bearing rotor would, correct? So need to add .22” to the 3/4” to see how much width he is gaining on each side.
 
starkey480 said:
So his hubs stick out 3/4” off the rotor as opposed to Yukon sticking out 7/8”. But his rotor still sticks out like an early unit bearing rotor would, correct? So need to add .22” to the 3/4” to see how much width he is gaining on each side.
Click to expand...
Easiest way to do this is to measure from the back face of the spindle where it bolts to the knuckle to the outside face of the locking hub flange. Theoretically the difference should be what is shown on the digital calipers above. Knowing Yukon, I trust that as far as I can throw a Jeep.
 
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