SlimCrawler is the nickname for Matson’s dick. The meaning behind BD Suspensions was better.
Daily Driver, Go Where I Want To Build
- Thread starter jjvw
- Start date
I modified a Barnes plate pretty heavily...
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/custom-high-clearance-bumpers.48723/post-840953
Nice! The end extensions are perfect for what I was picturing. I'll have an easier time modifying the logo, too... My last name starts with an S so it'll just take a little cutting.
I like the rotobroach and plug weld idea too. I was thinking of grinding out a groove around the back side of the shackle tab but I like your move better. Plus it gives me an excuse to get a rotobroach setup.
The only thing I might do different is to add another strip to box in the bottom edge across the middle so it wraps under the crossmember and doesn't have the flat edge to get stuck on. But I have an LJ without a back end tuck so mine is gonna be much more prone to contact than yours.
Yeah, I hit the tank skid then, if it's a sharp enough drop, the hitch receiver. My original design had the cross member wrapped, but once I looked at it, I decided it wasn't necessary.Nice! The end extensions are perfect for what I was picturing. I'll have an easier time modifying the logo, too... My last name starts with an S so it'll just take a little cutting.
I like the rotobroach and plug weld idea too. I was thinking of grinding out a groove around the back side of the shackle tab but I like your move better. Plus it gives me an excuse to get a rotobroach setup.
The only thing I might do different is to add another strip to box in the bottom edge across the middle so it wraps under the crossmember and doesn't have the flat edge to get stuck on. But I have an LJ without a back end tuck so mine is gonna be much more prone to contact than yours.
OP
A few small progress reports...
As part of the very slow fuel cell project, I removed the screw jack mount under the passenger seat using a Rotabroach to cut the spot welds. The purpose is to make more room for one of the sumps that will live under the seats.
Look at all that adventure debris!
As part of the very slow fuel cell project, I removed the screw jack mount under the passenger seat using a Rotabroach to cut the spot welds. The purpose is to make more room for one of the sumps that will live under the seats.
Look at all that adventure debris!
OP
I was able to get a good deal on a Warn small hub kit with a spare pair of lockouts. And with more of Blaine's help, this included 16" rotors for the Vanco BBK machined to fit hubs and the needed spacers to position the calipers where they need to be.
And Revolution was able to send me a pair of cromoly inner axle shafts to complete the hub kit.
And Revolution was able to send me a pair of cromoly inner axle shafts to complete the hub kit.
OP
I have to. If I want to use the hub kit, I have to go back to the 760x joint.
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OP
That's a big reason for why I want to do this, even if I'm giving up some strength.
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Why do you want more caster? I don’t have any experience with caster changes in 4 wheeled vehicles. But, in the the case of mountain bikes, a slacker head tube angle (I think that should be like increasing caster?) will make the steering feel less snappy or less nervous which can be good or bad depending on the situation.
I figured that is why. I’ve always run a little more caster than you’d normally get with our driveline angle, but I wish I had put it to 7* sooner. So much more pleasant on the street.
Good on the spare lockouts too. I haven’t had an issue with one yet though. They are definitely stronger than 27 spline inners! Lol
OP
To make the Warn small hub kit work with the upcoming switch to 17" wheels, I ended up using the JK Moabs I bought several years ago. This is the math on the JK wheels.
6" JK Wheel Backspacing
-1.06" Hub kit
=====
4.94" BS
-1.00" Adapter spacer
=====
3.94" Final Front Backspacing
6" JK Wheel Backspacing
-2" Adapter spacer
=====
4" Final Rear Backspacing
So, I'll be pulling the wheels in a bit from my current 3.75" backspacing.
6" JK Wheel Backspacing
-1.06" Hub kit
=====
4.94" BS
-1.00" Adapter spacer
=====
3.94" Final Front Backspacing
6" JK Wheel Backspacing
-2" Adapter spacer
=====
4" Final Rear Backspacing
So, I'll be pulling the wheels in a bit from my current 3.75" backspacing.
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Low caster makes the steering way more wandery. It takes way less work to keep the Jeep going straight down the road with 7* of caster (stock amount).
OP
Same reason as any other vehicle. More caster will calm down the steering. I currently have as much as I can get without front driveshaft vibes. By removing the shaft from the equation during normal driving, I can add more.
The hub kit also uses early rotors which stick out .22” more than the late rotors.
Thx. Sounds similar to mountain bikes. For a downhill bike, at speed, the slacker head tube angle makes it more stable.
OP
Track bikes vs touring bikes have very significant differences in head tube angles, too. Agility vs stability.
The added caster is a big plus. The best part was the added smoothness of not have the unloaded front driveshaft spinning. I think I am about 6* caster, need to look at an alignment sheet I have around here somewhere. I do need to get a spare hub though.
Found the paper. I’m at 5.8*. Once I get my double adjustable arms on I will put it on a rack and dial in more caster. That will also help get the axle moved forward a bit to help with tire clearance on the back of the front fenders. Not going to mess with any of it till I finish my control arms. You should gain a bit too.
Found the paper. I’m at 5.8*. Once I get my double adjustable arms on I will put it on a rack and dial in more caster. That will also help get the axle moved forward a bit to help with tire clearance on the back of the front fenders. Not going to mess with any of it till I finish my control arms. You should gain a bit too.
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By track bike do you mean a fixie with a 75deg head tube? Sounds fun, ish in the right place. But then so does a 62 degree head tube on a trail so steep you can’t walk it
