Daily Driver, Go Where I Want To Build

mrblaine said:
We drilled through from the outside to miss the existing armor holes, countersunk and through bolted using undercut head fasteners. Also why I didn't remove that part of the torque box, I wanted the extra thickness.
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yes my bottom bolts on each side go through it all. armor tub and flat bar. and i also found out a 4" bar won't pass through the box and rather than cut 3ft of it down that 1/4" i made it 2 pieces. i also drilled a couple holes in the valance plate and plug welded the ends of it onto the flat bar as well. i tried to stiffen it best i could, quite few things would have to break b4 it'll come apart.

how often are you rebuilding the whole box and have you ever thought of housing the AR through it for rearward position instances??
 
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someguysjeep said:
if you're goin far enough, you gotta loose those torque box ends for wheel space. cap the ends tie them back to the tub then move the body mounts in. and stiffen the weak hanging corners.
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Lots don't know what the inside of the ends of the torque box look like over the rear body mounts.
DSC00332.JPG

someguysjeep said:
the torque box is not super stout so it needs a bolster (a shim) between the body mount and the body to disperse load. i also put nut plates in there to catch those body mount bolts and disperse that pinch/clamp load.
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My body mounts I mentioned- I used the mounts from under the doors since they use a 1/2-13 bolt and I have nutserts for that.
DSC00345.JPG
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You can see the lap plate that goes from the capped cut on the frame rail across the bottom of the rear crossmember to add another tie in point.

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Stitch welding of the lower sheet metal onto the new torque box.

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someguysjeep said:
how often are you rebuilding the whole box and have you ever thought of housing the AR through it for rearward position instances??
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Often enough that it isn't painful to make them now. I don't believe there is enough room to run the AR back there and get the ends of the arms to swing past the tub inner face. There isn't any room for us anyway with the coil-over hoops right there.
 
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mrblaine said:
Lots don't know what the inside of the ends of the torque box look like over the rear body mounts.
View attachment 319733

My body mounts I mentioned- I used the mounts from under the doors since they use a 1/2-13 bolt and I have nutserts for that.
View attachment 319734View attachment 319735

You can see the lap plate that goes from the capped cut on the frame rail across the bottom of the rear crossmember to add another tie in point.

View attachment 319736


Stitch welding of the lower sheet metal onto the new torque box.

View attachment 319737
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i like your rear body mounts a bit better than what i ended with, mine are more visible from the back end than i'd like. i kept the cross member under the torque box so the finished bumper only sticks back about 1/2 off the tub. it works but it could have been tighter and neater.
 
someguysjeep said:
i like your rear body mounts a bit better than what i ended with, mine are more visible from the back end than i'd like. i kept the cross member under the torque box so the finished bumper only sticks back about 1/2 off the tub. it works but it could have been tighter and neater.
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If you get the angle just right, this is what you see from the View attachment 319772rear or will when the server wakes up and lets the images load.
someguysjeep said:
i like your rear body mounts a bit better than what i ended with, mine are more visible from the back end than i'd like. i kept the cross member under the torque box so the finished bumper only sticks back about 1/2 off the tub. it works but it could have been tighter and neater.
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DSC00337.JPG



Looking mostly down on the rear crossmember.

DSC00346.JPG
 
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I’m a loner……. Lol.
Folks have a hard time hearing what works 100% of the time. They want to know that their plan works. When they are told that there is a better way but it costs more they get upset and the term fan boy comes out. There is a reason that a properly built rig costs as much as $50k to build right.
 
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Wish we could buy the this style fuel cell. I have no interest in making one or spending the money for the genright only to eventually need a proper fuel cell. It is so far away on my build that I’m not sure why I’m interested but I am.
 
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Gollywomper said:
Wish we could buy the this style fuel cell. I have no interest in making one or spending the money for the genright only to eventually need a proper fuel cell. It is so far away on my build that I’m not sure why I’m interested but I am.
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Haha! I feel that. Far down the line but very intrigued. I like to think ahead so I don’t have to undo too many things.
 
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Gollywomper said:
I’m a loner……. Lol.
Folks have a hard time hearing what works 100% of the time. They want to know that their plan works. When they are told that there is a better way but it costs more they get upset and the term fan boy comes out. There is a reason that a properly built rig costs as much as $50k to build right.
Click to expand...
I go through that BS with steering all the time. There are enough examples of the Redneck bullshit working okay that folks consider it an option. There are also enough examples of it only working well enough to turn the tires back and forth that no one should ever do it. It all depends on how you define "works great".

I do know if it worked great every time or most of the time I would get far fewer calls wanting to know how to fix it.
 
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Gollywomper said:
Wish we could buy the this style fuel cell. I have no interest in making one or spending the money for the genright only to eventually need a proper fuel cell. It is so far away on my build that I’m not sure why I’m interested but I am.
Click to expand...
I've got a little nugget bouncing around in my head that it is possible to build an under the tub tank that runs at least 18 gallons with some creativity. I'll have the axle stuffed enough today to see how full of dookey I really am.
 
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There are enough benefits just in improving the ground clearance on a stockish wheelbase to consider relocating the tank. I guess that is my interest. It also removes a major hurdle down the road when moving the rear axle.
 
Boyd fab out of fla is a tank builder. I wanted to approach them about a couple different tj cells. nothing to have to stock but have usable drawings to choose from . They were to busy to bother last year. This could allow proper baffles and fuel traps or sumps.
 
This is the first build thread that I started reading when I bought my TJ 2 years ago. I learned more than I could have ever imagined by paying attention here. I had never own a TJ or built one so I came in with an open mind and found that the things that @jjvw and @mrblaine were saying made sense. Thanks for making me think about why rather than saying do this because it’s bad ass.
 
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CV04TJR said:
This is the first build thread that I started reading when I bought my TJ 2 years ago. I learned more than I could have ever imagined by paying attention here. I had never own a TJ or built one so I came in with an open mind and found that the things that @jjvw and @mrblaine were saying made sense. Thanks for making me think about why rather than saying do this because it’s bad ass.
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The why is the only thing that actually matters.
 
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